Discover dogs

How to Name Your New Puppy

2007-12-14T21:26:00.000+07:00

Finally, you've made the important decision to bring a puppy into your home. You've researched different breeds on the Internet, talked to various breeders, consulted with veterinarians and harassed your dog-owning friends for advice, but now the time has come for your dog to finally come home. The question then is, what are you going to name poor, little Fido?

It has been estimated that the average dog will hear his name over 35,000 times during his lifetime, so you should choose it carefully. Resist the temptation to select a name that is too cute or funny. Instead, choose a name that's just right.

Keep reading for some tips on how to pick a great puppy name.

1. Brevity Is Best

Dogs respond well to short and easy-to-remember commands. So, pick a name that's succinct and clear. "Mr. Snugglebottoms the Third" may seem cute now, but by the time you get to the second half of that mouthful, your dog will be out the door.

Try to choose a name that has two syllables or less. If you insist on choosing a longer name, try to pick something that can be shortened into a nickname. For example, Mr. Snugglebottoms could be 'SB' for short.

2. Try Not to Rhyme

It's best not to name your dog something that's similar to a common command. For example, consider the dog owner who named his dog "Steve." Every time he tried to tell his canine friend to "stay," the dog came running up to him.

So, choose a name that won't confuse your pup.

3. Think About the Neighbors

You'll be using your dog's name in front of other people, so keep your pet's name appropriate and kid-friendly. A name that may seem humorous now, won't be so funny years later when you and your pet has formed a special bond and in front of others you still have to call him "Precious."

4. Ask the Kids

If you have children, let them participate in the dog-naming process. It will get them involved in the overall dog adoption transition and make them more comfortable with this new addition to the family.

5. Reserve the Honors

Don't name your dog after someone you know. It may seem like an honor to you, but it could be construed as offensive.

6. Don't Teach an Old Dog New Names

If you're adopting an older dog, it's best not to try to change its name. Stick with what the dog already knows.

For information on practical dog necessities, please visit http://www.dog-necessities.com/, a popular site providing great insights concerning issues that help you with dog care, such as dog training products, dog medical supplies, and much more.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Randy_Hemsley

Dog Breeder - Best Of Breed

2007-11-24T20:56:00.000+07:00

By Chris
A good breeder does much more than just put mom and dad puppy in a room, lower the lights, light the candles, pour the puppy catnip, and play a little Johnny Mathis music. That's only the beginning. They do their best to ensure the best of breed for their hopefully strong and healthy dogs. There are characteristics within every breed standard that has been agreed upon. Good breeders will also do their best to pick out good owners, that to the best of their ability will love and care for their puppies. And to that end they try to educate owners with helpful information about the breed of dog they are buying. Not an inclusive list, but things like diet, health issues, and immunizations are things that any good breeder should beknowledgeable of and willing to share.

Best In Show, Or Barely Making The Grade

Your national kennel association or club will be able to provide you with a list of names of breeders in good standing within their organization. If your breed is apopular one, and there are dog clubs in your area, there will be plenty of people with advice on good and bad breeders in your area. Talk to friends, family, orcolleagues that have the breed of dog you're looking at. If they had problems, or a great experience, they would be able to tell you where they got their dog. Veterinarians usually have a pretty good idea of who the less than great breeders

in an area are. When dog breeders have problems with their dogs, either physically or emotionally, they will eventually end up turning to a breeder. The not so great dog breeders, will show up at the vets a lot.

Narrowing The List

Not all breeders breed dogs for the same reasons. Find out why breeders breed their dogs. Some may be breeding their dogs for show. Dogs with characteristics good for showing do notnecessarily make good family pets. As well, some breeders with showing in mind, may want to keep the pick of the litters for themselves. This of course narrows down the choice of puppies available for you. Some show breeders do allow their pups to be sold on a 'pet only' basis. It may be a little cheaper, but if all you wanted was a family pet, then this may be ideal for you.

If your still having doubts, let your instincts guide you. If the puppies seem well cared for, healthy and happy, then all is probably well. Try and see both parents as well. At least the mother. If they also look happy and healthy, then that's another good sign. Remember, the breeder only cares for the puppies during a very short time in their life. It's you and how you care for your newpuppy, that really make the difference in the long run.

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The Natural Principles Of Dog Health

2007-11-24T20:54:00.000+07:00

By Clint
The natural principles state the fact that a good diet will keep the dog’s health in a normal state; the entire body will tend towards this state of god health. Every pet will be more prone to healing if that is the case; for instance, the proper Cat Food is able to help the kitten resist when being sick and healing will be promoted too. The correct conditions of the pet’s body should be put in their place in order to maintain the state of health. A balanced diet means that the pet has to eliminate all the wastes and he has to digest all the necessary nutrients. But many pets are not likely to enjoy this type of balanced diet. Therefore, every owner should be aware of the fact that his pet’s intake can exceed his output. This is the main reason why a diet is not to be considered as a balanced one even if its appearance is positive.

The regular excess can come from constant over feeding and incorrect proportion when it comes to the supplements that are being used in the pet’s food. For instance, the Cat Food can have too much fat inclusion or proteins thus leading to an obvious unbalance that can result in sickness. The Dog Health has to be promoted by a chemical-free diet and the natural elements should be added too. The unbalanced diet can lead to a decreased output and this aspect is very harmful because the pet’s body will be filled with toxins that may accumulate in time. The owner should also pay attention to the amount of exercise that his pet is exposed to; insufficient exercise can also lead to an increased unbalance and weight gain. The fats will accumulate thus making the entire body work at a lower level.

The pet’s home should also be taken into account; actually, the environment is very important when it comes to prompting your pet’s health. For instance, a warm environment is able to reduce the entire amount of energy that is usually needed in order to maintain the proper body temperature. Even the main organs of elimination will become less efficient. Every puppy owner should be very careful about the Dog Health because this period is a critical one; he will become very anxious in order to find whether his puppy is receiving the necessary vitamins and minerals in order to enjoy a healthy development and growth.

The main purpose of the pet’s diet is to provide the dog with all the necessary nutrients that are required in order for the pet to grow and remain active. Every dog and Cat Food will contain the proper mixture of nutrients

and each of these nutrients will have its own role when it comes to ensuring the proper digestion and nutrition. The correct amounts of supplements are highly important in order not to disturb the natural cycle of digestion. As the puppy grows into adulthood, he will have other needs; his requirements will change and the owner has the responsibility of ensuring the proper diet that is fit for this stage of life.

But proper nutrition is likely to start even before the puppy was born because the parents have to be fed with quality food in order to have healthy puppies. Special nutrients and supplements are to be added to the pregnant bitch’s diet in order for the puppies to have a stronger constitution. A proper diet will make the puppies healthier and more resistant to possible diseases. Even the environment should be emotionally satisfying in order for the bitch to produce resistant puppies. The bitch that is living in a stable environment will produce puppies that will be well-adjusted when compared with puppies that were born in a restricted and caged environment.

The puppy’s initial nourishment will be highly related to his mother; any deficiencies that have affected the bitch’s life will be passed to her puppies. Prolonged periods of time that have been characterized by nutritional lacks will influence the puppies’ state of health. The last third of the pregnancy time is the most important. The puppy’s weight is likely to develop in this period too and the efficient flow of vitamins and minerals is to be assured in order for all the nutrients to be transferred to the puppy’s body. Nutrition in this third period is very important mainly because it will become highly beneficial in the first weeks after the puppy was born; the bitch’s stomach capacity will be reduced during this period of time and she has to deal with the constant demand to eat in order to feed her puppies. The proper diet is to be ensured in order to enable the bitch to produce the necessary milk that will support the development and growth of her puppies. During this period, the only nutrition will come from the mother’s milk and the owner has to learn how to wean the puppies in order to give them dog food. This transfer should be done in a gradual manner in order not to disturb the natural development of the puppies.

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What Is It About The Pug Dog?

2007-11-24T20:50:00.000+07:00

By Dane
Have you ever wondered why so many people are choosing the pug over any other dog to own as a pet? First impressions aren't really all that appealing when you think about it. Some people would even go as far as saying that they look like they have just run flat into a wall and that's how they're gotten their appearance. So why do people still choose the pug over any other...

Don't Judge A Book By Its Cover

It it widely known that pug dogs have one of the best personalities out evry domestic dog breed in the world. Experts believe that they are especially good for young children as they are unlikely ever to bite or attack in any way, shape or form. The fact that they are a very hardy dog also makes them a good choice for families with small children. They love to be played with and thrown around as long as you are not too rough with them ofcourse. in fact they are one of the only smaller breeds of dogs that can take a bit of playful agression.

The trait that the pug dog is most commonly known for however is its constant loving nature to every living creature. "The wouldn't hurt a soel". This is something most pug owners will tell you when

you ask them what it's like owning a dog such as a pug.

Things To Be Wary Of For New Pug Dog Owners

The first and most important thing that new pug owners should be wary of is the fact that pugs can have problems breathing at times. It is important to keep them cool at all times, especially in summer. It's a good idea to cary a water bottle with you everytime you walk you pug down to the park. Better still, fill up an empty water-spraying device like the ones from detergent bottles and whenever you see that your pug is becoming dehydrated and you notice it is panting heavier than usual, spray your dog on the face a few times. I guarantee he/she will love it!

The second thing to look out for as a pug owner is their bad smell. Pugs have different glands than most other dogs and therefore give off a more distinct smell. It is suggested that you wash your pug twice a week and purchase a fragrance of some sort to couteract the smell. This is especially needed if you are deciding to keep your pug dog indoors.

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Dog Breeds

2007-11-24T20:47:00.000+07:00

By Michael
I hope that the following article will help you to better empathize this topic.

There are likely more dog breeds in the world at this moment than there are dissimilar strains of bacteria! Okay, that was a flimsy exaggeration, but only a very slight one mind you. There really are an astonishing number of dog breeds or so with more being recognized every year.

It’s not that new dog breeds are being found from the four corners of the earth, it’s that new dog breeds are advent into being because of cross breeding programs. The resulting dogs aren't always reasoned to be a new dog breed, but some of them do stack up to the standards to be reasoned as one of the dog breeds, and this is when the number of dog breeds starts to grow.

Since dog is so-called to be man's best friend, it actually is no surprise that the more ardent of dog lovers went on to cross breed dissimilar dogs to get what they well thought out to be the perfectible dog for them.

This required many years of dedication on the part of these breeders as well as a love for the dogs. And the consequence of so many, many years of breeding programs by so many, many dog breeders is the large diverseness of dog breeds we have about us today.

And of these, one of the latest editions to the mix

is none other than a precious cross breed known as a Puggle who is crossed with a Beagle mother and Pug father. Of the latest new dog breeds to come to the attention of the public this cute, wrinkle faced dog with the big pendulous ears and the soulful eyes, is one of the most sought after.

And just as with these Puggles, there are many new dog breeds which come into being on a steady basis. Some people deliberate that these cross bred dog breeds are better even than their unmixed bred parents as the cross breeds will have less chance of carrying the same transmissible illnesses and diseases which the pure breeds carry in their genetic makeup.

If you're on the look out for a good dog to suit you and you find that the very number of dog breeds to take from is too overwhelming for you to look into, the best thing for you to do is to differentiate your choices down depending on what your requirements of a dog are... to read more on this topic, please follow on our link below...

Thank you for Taking you time to read through this selective information if you’re interested in gathering more knowledge please continue to search this site.

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Check Your Dog Food Ingredients

2007-11-19T23:38:00.000+07:00

By Dave Jackson
Dogs, especially puppies and miniatures, are so innocent of their surroundings that they‘ll try anything once, even if it‘s harmful. This morning, as I was spraying an organic insecticide made from flowers and my miniature schnauzer took a few licks to see what is was like – before I caught her. Just like snakes, dogs use their tongues to test the environment. This spray isn‘t that bad because it‘s natural. Still, even natural repellents are pretty hard on the kidneys.

Dogs will try anything, even more so than cats, which are the most finicky pets you could own. So when you are putting out the dog food, chances are, even if there is something bad in there, if it tastes good enough, they‘ll consume the whole bowl and look at you to see if more is coming. And by the way, make sure you‘re not over feeding your puppy. Don‘t feed your puppy scraps or your unfinished food. That‘s too much food for an animal that doesn‘t get out very much. They have nowhere to burn off the food and will get fat, quickly.

So if dogs can‘t tell you how their food tastes, or read the label to see if there is something in their food that might be hard on the kidneys or digestive tract; it is up to you, their owner, to carefully check what is in that dog food bag that sits in the corner. With the recent crises of the Chinese putting junk in mix, it is time for you to do some label investigation to make sure you are not slowly killing your dog with ingredients that still make it onto our shelves.

First, let’s understand the economics behind the making of dog food. Dog food manufacturers are in business for one main reason - and it’s not to make dog food! They’re in business to make a profit. Dog food is only what gets them to profitability. Once you know this, believe that if they can save money on manufacturing and beat the competition, they will. They don‘t do this because they want to hurt your pet. They do this because if they don‘t - the way their business model works - they will lose money and sell less dog food.

Have you been to the dog food aisle lately? Some stores have two or three aisles. There is huge competition on price and ingredients. You‘ll find your normal dog food; names you‘ve grown up with, and then you‘ll find newer, organic or special diet dog foods. So know that there is not a lot of concern going on for your dog - just marketing what may catch your fancy. But you need to be aware of what to look out for on those labels.

Since Fido will probably eat the same food day in and day out, it is important to look past the attractive labels and clever marketing. Current pet food regulation allows manufacturers to use ingredients you wouldn‘t

feed your pet in you knew. Look for the word “by-products“ on the label. This can mean feet, bones and intestines.

Because dog food manufacturers have to make sure the product won‘t spoil, typically 12 months, they include preservatives. Fats used in dog food would go rancid, so they use synthetic preservatives called butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), propyl gallate, propylene glycol which is also used as a less-toxic version of automotive antifreeze, and ethoxyquin. Look for these on the label. There is not much information documenting their toxicity, safety, interactions, or use in pet foods that may be eaten every day for the life of your dog. Propylene glycol was banned in cat food because it causes anemia in cats, yet it is still allowed in dog food.

These potentially cancer-causing agents such as BHA, BHT, and ethoxyquin are allowed at pretty low levels. Using these chemicals in dog foods has not been thoroughly studied, and long term build-up of these agents could be harmful. Because of the questionable data in the original study on its safety, ethoxyquin‘s manufacturer, Monsanto, was required to perform a new, more rigorous study in 1996. Monsanto didn‘t find significant toxicity associated with its own product, but in July 1997 the FDA‘s Center for Veterinary Medicine requested that manufacturers voluntarily reduce the maximum level for ethoxyquin by half, to 75 parts per million.

The ball is in the air on ethoxyquin. Some pet food critics believe that ethoxyquin is a major cause of disease, skin problems, and infertility in dogs, others claim it is the safest, strongest, most stable preservative we have for pet food. And ethoxyquin is approved for human foods, preserving spices such as cayenne and chili powder, at a level of 100 ppm — but it would be pretty hard for even the most hard-core spice lover to consume as much chili powder every day as a dog would eat dry food. Ethoxyquin has not been tested with cats. Still, it is commonly used in veterinary diets for both cats and dogs.

What is the answer? What I suggest is that you contact suppliers who make dog food in small batches and ship them to your door. These companies are few and far between, but they do exist and they have higher quality ingredients with none of the dangerous preservatives. I discuss this great detail on my website and give you suggestions to try for your treasured pet.

Article Source: http://www.ArticleJoe.com

Caring for your miniature pinscher dog

2007-11-16T21:43:00.000+07:00

Your Miniature Pinscher dog is different from any other type of Pinscher and needs special treatment.
The Miniature Pinscher is a small dog, standing at about 12 inches high. It is affectionately nicknamed the Min Pin. It is a good fighter, athletic, investigative and playful. It does not sit still for a minute so you have to be vigilant and watch that it does not get into any mischief.
Min Pins tend to be bossy and dominant. They will try to boss over the human family. Spoiled Min Pins create behavior problems like excessive barking, possessiveness over food or favorite objects, snapping at humans and dominance struggles. These are challenges to novel dog owners who may not know how to train the Min Pin for obedience.
Training a Min Pin is tough. You need to be in control and insist that you're the dominant leader and it must obey you. Since Min Pins are playful, they will definitely make fun of everything and exasperate you. However, remain firm to overcome their attitude problems.
Before buying a Min Pin, it is best to observe these pups and talk to breeders. Get your information right and then make your commitment. Your family needs to understand and accept your Min Pin, as it will become part of your family. Like it or not, the Min Pin will interact with everybody and get into everybody's way. Remember to ask for your pup's immunization record.
Before bringing your pup home, you need to puppy-proof your home. Secure all openings that can be reached by your Min Pin. Its curious nature will encourage it to investigate every nook and cranny. It will run away if given the opportunity. Small objects on your table top are not safe from your Min Pin's mouth. It is safer to install special screen doors to prevent your Min Pin from escaping. You also need screens on your windows to prevent your pet from leaping out.

You need to brush your Min Pin's coat twice weekly to keep it clean and shiny. Toenails need trimming once fortnightly. Bathe your pet once monthly and for the rest of the time, wipe it clean using a warm, wet towel. Start with the face and work down to the tail. Wash that towel thoroughly before its next use on your pet.
A Min Pin is a sensitive dog and rough treatment will affect the dog badly. It will run away from that person. This will also contribute to behavioral problems like fear-aggression in the dog.
Start your pup on training and socialization as it learns best at a young age. Its high level of energy and excitement will bring color into your life.

How to care for your dog and how to bond

2007-11-16T21:41:00.000+07:00

Dog ownership is more than just feeding. Tips for the health and well-being of your canine friend. Taking care of your dog from puppy to adult.

Our dogs - they're called 'Man's Best Friend'. But how good a friend are we being to our loyal pets? There's more to taking care of a canine friend than just feeding and petting. Care must be taken to assure the dog's well-being - inside and out.

Adopt from animal shelters whenever possible. Often young animals from puppy mills and breeders will exhibit sickness and behavioral problems.
First of all, make sure your dog is safe. A sturdy collar is mandatory so that it won't fall off and lose his ID tags. The tag should display the owner's phone number as well as the dog's name. Information regarding dog tags can be found in veterinarian's offices and on the back of most dog treat boxes. Safety also means your yard is adequately fenced and there's a leash attached to his collar when you take him out for a walk.
Training is important. Make sure he's taught to respond to simple commands such as 'sit', 'no', 'heel', and 'come'. You can't go wrong with those four words. Having your dog learn tricks is secondary to making sure he minds his manners.

Clean water and good food is essential for a healthy dog. Check the back of the dog food can or sack of food to ascertain he's getting good nutrients, vitamins and minerals and not a lot of fat. Don't give your friend a lot of table scraps as those have a tendency to be fatty and don't over feed him. Feeding the dog should be the adult's responsibility - never force this on a child. A child may start to see this as something he 'has' to do, will come to resent the task and the dog will suffer. Ask your child if he would like to 'help' feed the dog.
Your dog should have regular physical and dental exams starting with when you bring him home. He can't tell you when he's sick other than exhibiting odd or bad behavior. Make sure your pet is spayed or castrated at the proper time so you aren't adding to the unwanted pet population. Neutering also keeps conditions such as breast cancer in check and results in a happier, healthier pet.

Wash your dog, at the most, once a week. Washing more than this robs his skin and hair of needed oils essential to his comfort.
Bedding should be changed every time the pet is groomed and washed. If you wash your dog once a week, change his bedding as often. This will keep your pet clean and comfortable.
Exercise is a must. Walk him dog at least once a day. He'll enjoy his time out and this will be good for you too. Although usually walking a dog nowhere nears approaching aerobic exercise, the time you spend out results in a more balanced physical and mental state for the both of you. Simple games can be enjoyed by both of you -- throw a smooth stick or a ball. Have him chase a frisbee - that's the easy part. Getting him to return it to you is another story.
And love your pet. This is so important. Take time to talk, brush and lovingly touch your friend. Let your pet know he's an important part of your life. He loves you so much and depends on you for everything - that's why you're his hero. He deserves to know you appreciate him and you need to realize how lucky you are to have him.

Dog health insurance

2007-11-16T21:37:00.000+07:00

Yes, there is such a thing as dog health insurance. Learn what it is and whether it's a good idea for your dog.
Yes, maybe now you’ve heard it all. There is really such a thing as doggy health insurance. And for many pet owners, it’s something they believe they need to have. Let’s face it. Your dog is probably not covered on your medical policy, and vet bills can be pretty steep. That’s why many people decide to make the awkward decision to buy health insurance for their dogs.

There really is no good rule about whether you should buy health insurance for your dog or not. You really need to think carefully about whether it will save you money and whether it’s worth it. The health insurance can be expensive, there’s no doubt about it. But it could be worth it to you, depending on how you see the health of your dog progressing over the next few years.
If you’ve got a generally healthy pet and have had no real health problems, then you can certainly make a good case against getting dog health insurance. But you do need to keep in mind that you’re taking a chance. If your dog would have some sort of accident or develop a serious condition, you might be paying a huge medical bill out of your own pocket. That’s the protection and peace of mind that insurance provides.

Even if you do have a healthy pet, you still might want to invest in health insurance for that same fact. Life brings about many different changes and you are always encountering new situations. If your dog happens to develop a serious condition--if you’re going to get him taken care of and properly treated, you’ll probably be paying a decent amount of money. Money that might be saved if you had only bought that health insurance.
Then there’s the situation of the pet who might be in diminishing health. If you might foresee your pet having health problems, or if it has a history of severe ailments, health insurance is a very real option for you. It seriously can save you a ton of money.
But again, health insurance for your pet is available and is something you should consider. You can ask your vet or insurance provider for more information about getting health insurance for your pet.

How to train a great dane dog

2007-11-16T21:31:00.000+07:00

Ten tips on training a Great Dane.
So you’ve decided to get a Great Dane. All that is left is to train it. Which are a much bigger responsibility then most people realize. This article offers tips and hints that Great Dane owners have been using during this time consuming but rewarding process. Here are ten suggestions that many Great Dane owners go by when it comes to raising and training your puppy:

1.) The Great Dane is one of the biggest breeds of dog but it needs to be an inside pet. They need human companionship and do not fare well being alone living outdoors. Even though they are known to be gentle creatures, when we consider their size, you have to teach them right away who is boss.

2.) Never feed your Great Dane high protein meals. They are prone to many diet related health issues (such as bloating) and you need to educate yourself on their nutritional needs.

3.) Great Danes are really energetic animals. If you do not live in the country or have a fenced in yard for them to run it off, be prepared to run them (not just walk them) at least twice a day. Otherwise their pent up frustrations can lead to a destructive side showing and you might not have much of a house left if one of these massive creatures starts tearing through it.

4.) The key to having any dog be friendly with others is to introduce them to a lot of people at an early age. You need to socialize an animal in order for it to become social.

5.) Even if you do not have children, you Great Dane will more then likely meet up with a few in the future. You must be prepared for this possibility by getting the dog used to the loud behaviors of children now, before an unforeseen tragedy can occur. If nothing else, take him to a local park while he is just a pup so he can meet and greet others babies.

6.) Make sure that the puppy is up to date on all immunizations though before introducing him to other outside animals.

7.) Use the proper voice response for different behaviors. If your puppy is scared and tries to bite a person that comes near him, never coddle him and coo ‘I won’t hurt you baby’. Do not yell either. Simply pet him gently and say in an even tone ‘He won’t hurt you.’ Dogs go by the tone in your voice, not the words behind it. If you raise your voice in a sympathetic tone, puppies read that the same way they do the higher-pitched praise words. They will take it to mean that what they are doing is all right. Instead, if you maintain a calm normal pitch, they will begin to understand that if a situation is not upsetting you, then it shouldn’t bother them either. If they react badly to a situation and you use this method, make sure to praise them immensely, if during the next similar situation, they act appropriately.

8.) Do not, under any circumstances, allow even the youngest puppy to challenge you. After he is told no, some will back off and begin barking at you. This is just like a toddler screaming after being told that he can not do something and just like a child, he has to be taught that this behavior is unacceptable. There is much debate on the methods used to correct this problem in Great Danes but there is one thing that is generally agreed upon. If your puppy consistently continues to do react this way towards you, you should seek advice from a behaviorist. You do not want these dogs to reach their massive size thinking that they run your household.

9.) Choke chains or the infamous studs turned inside collars should never be used to train any dog. This is a lazy way of forcing the dog into what you want him to do, instead of teaching him the proper behavior. If you do not want to take the time to train your animal in a respectful way, then do not expect respect in return or better yet, do not get a dog at all!

10.) If your dog is older (6 months or more) and still has not been trained, it is wise to seek help from a behaviorist or certified obedience school. These dogs are too large by this time to teach them all of the things they need to know by someone who isn’t an expert on it. Don’t risk your safety, the safety of others, or the Great Dane’s safety just to save a few bucks or to avoid embarrassment. Most of these people have seen everything and your story will not seem at all odd to them.

How to train a beagle dog

2007-11-16T21:26:00.000+07:00

Beagles are charming companions but need very specific training and environment to fulfill their potential.

Beagle puppies are especially appealing, tails wagging, tongues swiping, bodies all aquiver with joy, but this breed is not for just any family. Before you choose a Beagle as a pet, you should ask yourself if this dog will fit into your environment.

STEP ONE: BEAGLES FARE BEST IN A LARGE FAMILY
Beagles require more training than other breeds and have a strong tendency to stray when the opportunity presents itself. They respond best to the stimulation of a large active family. If you choose to train a Beagle, consider the fact that you must start the training early and having more than one Beagle will make things much easier. They can keep each other company if no one else is at home and will be delightful companions to all members of the family.

STEP TWO: BEAGLES ARE HUNTING DOGS
Beagles are natural hunters and are easily distracted from commands by the scent of a rabbit or squirrel or nothing more than the neighborhood cat. The scent alone will send them chasing even though the animal might have been in the area several hours earlier. Therefore, in the house or in a fenced yard, training isn’t that difficult, but when out for a walk, a leash is recommended. You might think you have a perfectly behaved dog until natural instinct takes over. To Beagles, going on the hunt is what they think you want.

STEP THREE: THE PHYSICAL ASPECTS OF BEAGLES
Beagles are short-haired dogs but they have double coats, fine beneath and coarser on top, that do shed in the spring. They are muscular and medium-sized with a keen sense of smell. They like to get dirty and will probably need weekly brushing and a bath once in a while. Because they have droopy ears, they are subject to ear infections. Most Beagles are tri-colored, black, brown, and white. Their origins are English, and they were used for hunting rabbits. The Beagle we see today was recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1884 and is one of the countries most popular breeds.

STEP FOUR: BEAGLES NEED CAREFUL MONITORING:
You’ve just brought home a delightful Beagle puppy, and he’s already charming everyone. But you can’t put a diaper on him, and an 8-week-old Beagle needs to be housetrained as soon as possible. The puppy should be at least 8 weeks old; otherwise he hasn’t learned the basic behavior from his mother that he needs. Because he is still an infant, he will need to go out every couple of hours. There should also be a spot in the house with newspapers where he can be confined. If you can’t keep an eye on him because he is roaming the house, he’s apt to use the floor and the bad habit is started. And Beagles will roam if allowed to do so. Unless you’re actually with the dog, he should be where the papers are. Pet supply stores have shredded recycled newspaper that you can use in a litter box. Female Beagles are easier to train in a litter box because they don’t have to lift their leg. The litter box should be similar to a carrying case and large enough to accommodate your Beagle puppy as she grows. The male puppy needs to be taken outside on a regular basis to a specific potty area, but set aside a spot in the house with newspapers just in case. A doggie door that leads to a confined space outdoors is ideal.

STEP FIVE: MAKE YOUR BEAGLE FEEL SECURE
The first step in training your puppy is to make him feel secure. That means establishing a routine. Understanding the word “no” is the first step. If you tell him no, you must be ready to follow through. You must be higher in the pack order than he is. He expects this and wants it. Pets are dependent on their owners and are comfortable with following your orders. If he knows exactly where his food dish and water dish will be every day and if he knows what time he will be fed, what time he will go for a walk, what time he is expected to retire and to start the day, and where his bed is located, he will feel much more secure and will be more apt to respond to your commands.
Because Beagles are naturally sociable animals, getting along with people is not a problem, but they are easily distracted by other animals or people, and patience is a virtue in the training of a Beagle. Adolescence for your puppy begins between 6 and 9 months and ends between 1 and 3 years old. This can be an awkward time of change and upheaval when the behavior of your Beagle is unstable, but as long as you understand this phase and know that it‘s temporary, you can handle your dog as you would handle any teenager. Beagles are one of the most appealing pets anyone could have, but only if they have the training they need.

How to teach a dog to ride a skateboard

2007-11-16T21:17:00.000+07:00

Teach your dog to ride a skateboard in five easy steps.

When I was in college, my roommate had an adorable mutt named Toby. Toby was a friendly, energetic pup, but not particularly good for anything other than eating our leftovers and slobbering on our pillows. He was cute, though, and my roommate and I set out to make him even more attractive (and us by proxy) by teaching him a few tricks. Being avid skaters ourselves, we figured teaching ol’ Toby to skateboard would be a cinch—and it was.

Why Teach Tricks
Teaching your dog new tricks is a great way to reinforce the process of learning the kinds of behaviors you want your dog to have. It develops habits of problem solving and learning that actually make your dog smarter. Tricks are also fun, both for you and your dog. Learning something new relieves stress in your dog, and helps him relax physically and mentally.

The Big Picture
The first thing you need to do is decide exactly what you want your dog to do—do you want him to mount the board and just ride along? Do you want him to move the skateboard with his foot? Or are you really ambitious, and do you want your dog to do back flips while shredding a half-pipe? Take the big picture and break it into the smallest possible steps, and then start backwards. For example, if you want your dog to mount the skateboard, push off and coast for a little while, and then jump off, you will start by placing the dog on the skateboard, and teaching him to step off. Then you will teach him to stand on the skateboard while it is moving, and so on. Once you have a good idea of what exactly you want your dog to do, and how you can break it into small parts, move on to the next step.

Get Interested
Try to get your dog to show some interest in the skateboard. Let him sniff it, climb on it, play with it a bit. Try encouraging him to sit/stand on the board using treats and a lot of praise when he does something close to what you ultimately want him to learn. Try not to force your dog to do something he is uncomfortable attempting. As he becomes more comfortable with the movement of the board, and begins to associate your sessions with the skateboard as fun, he’ll be more willing to try things that don’t come naturally to him.

Approximate the Behavior
Now you are ready to approximate the behavior. This is the most time-consuming part of the process, and it requires some creativity. Start by showing your dog what you want him to do. Step onto your skateboard, push off with one foot, ride a small distance, and then step off. Do this for your dog several times in a row over several days. Then start encouraging your dog to “follow” your example. Place him on the skateboard and have him sit/stand there for several minutes while you pet him. Once he is comfortable doing this, try rolling the skateboard back and forth while he’s sitting on it. Eventually your dog will start mounting the skateboard by himself expecting your praise and attention.

Reinforce
Be sure to reinforce his good behavior as much as possible. Pet him while he stands on the skateboard. Praise him enthusiastically when he allows you to roll the skateboard while he’s standing on it. Give him a treat when he rides a small distance and steps off. As he begins to learn the trick, you can raise the criteria for your praise, so that he only gets a reward when he does particularly well. Add extra steps to the trick before he earns a reward.

The Tricky Bit
The hardest part will be getting your dog to push off while standing on the skateboard. We were lucky enough that Toby actually did this all on his own. He understood that to get a treat he needed to be on the skateboard, so he brought the board to us one day while sitting on it (pushing along with his little doggy paw). We reinforced the behavior and it stuck. Alternatively, you might try tethering your dog to the skateboard, so that it comes with him automatically. You might also be able to teach him by moving one of his feet to the ground—he should naturally push off from that position when he tries to remount the board, and then a lot of praise and practice should make the behavior stick.
And that’s it! Just about any trick can be taught in the same fashion: decide on a trick, break it into smaller parts, get your dog to show some interest, approximate the behavior, reinforce good behavior, and before know it, your dog has learned a new trick!

Chocolate, raisins, and other bad foods

2007-11-16T21:15:00.000+07:00

Whether you’re feeding your dogs table scraps or they’re digging through the garbage, being aware of potentially dangerous foods will help prevent unfortunate accidents.

We often treat our dogs like part of the family, so sometimes it’s easy to forget that some foods we eat can be dangerous, even deadly, to dogs. Whether you’re feeding your dogs table scraps or they’re digging through the garbage, being aware of these dangerous foods will help prevent unfortunate accidents.
CHOCOLATE
Chocolate is dangerous because it contains theobromine, a substance that dogs metabolize very slowly. When theobromine builds up in the body, it can harm the heart, central nervous system, and kidneys.

RAISINS AND GRAPES
While it is unclear exactly what substance in grapes and raisins causes the problems, there are many documented cases of dogs experiencing acute kidney problems after eating even a handful of grapes or raisins.

AVOCADO
Avocado is another toxic fruit. The pit, which most dogs would think was something fun to chew on, is especially poisonous. In fact, a good rule of thumb with all seeds or pits is that if we remove them from the fruit or vegetable before eating, then they’re probably not healthy for dogs.

ONIONS AND GARLIC
Both onions and garlic contain the toxic chemical thiosulphate. As thiosulphate levels build up in a dog’s body, they cause severe problems with the body’s red blood cells. Dogs can become ill after either eating one large amount of onion or regular smaller meals containing onions. All forms of onions are equally dangerous, whether they are raw, cooked, or included in a recipe, one reason to be especially careful with table scraps. Onions contain more of the toxic ingredient than garlic. While the potential for illness still exists, a dog would have to eat much larger quantities of garlic to become dangerously ill.

NUTS
Most nuts by themselves aren’t inherently dangerous. Macadamia nuts, however, contain an unknown chemical that causes motor problems like tremors and weakness in dogs. It’s not usually fatal, but it’s an unpleasant condition. Also, if you ever set out bowls of large, unshelled nuts, don’t put them in reach of your pets. Dogs can swallow a large nut while trying to chew it and choke.

MEAT AND POULTRY BONES
While eating meat and poultry doesn’t provide a very balanced diet for a dog, that isn’t truly dangerous. Leftover bones can become lethal if they splinter and create sharp edges while your dog is chewing on them. Poultry bones are the most prone to splintering, but meat bones aren’t completely safe, either, so buying your dog a good chew toy is the best way to go.

LIVER
A little bit of liver can be a nutritious treat. Too much liver can cause a dangerous overdose of vitamins A & D, in addition to causing diarrhea.
DAIRY PRODUCTS
Milk and cheese aren’t toxic to dogs, but they can cause diarrhea, something no pet owner wants to deal with.

DRINKS
In all of this talk of food, don’t overlook some beverages that can be dangerous to dogs. You should never allow a dog to drink even the smallest amount of alcohol. Someone may think it’s funny to “get the dog drunk,” but it’s highly dangerous. Coffee, tea and other caffeinated drinks are also dangerous to dogs because high levels of caffeine are poisonous. The smaller the dog, the more poisonous caffeine is because the toxicity level depends on an animal’s weight.

How to help a shy, timid dog

2007-11-16T21:13:00.000+07:00

Helping a shy dog to build confidence will require your time, patience and, eventually, an obedience training class.

Helping a shy dog to build confidence will require your time, your patience and, eventually, an obedience training class. You may not see significant progress for three to six months, but the happy dog which will result will be worth your efforts.
Shyness can occur for many different reasons. Some breeds are just naturally shy. Other dogs may have been emotionally, physically or verbally abused. While others, still, may have been raised in a loving home but not socialized as puppies, given the opportunity to meet new people and to associate with other dogs.
A Severely Shy Dog
If your dog is so extremely shy he won’t let you or anyone in your family pet him, begin by giving him a quick pat on the head as you walk through the house. This unexpected action will catch him off guard, and he will learn, through repetition, that nothing bad will happen to him as a result.
Your first goal is to make him trust you. One owner purchased a pound of chicken livers, cooked them and then laid down on the floor with some chicken livers on her body and the rest trailing away at approximately five feet. She spoke to her dog softly, but laid still, avoiding eye contact. When he had eaten them all, she padded him enthusiastically on his sides saying what a good boy he had been. Your dog may run away at this point, but this is a trust building exercise.
Avoiding eye contact and patting a dog on his sides or stroking his neck and chest are non-threatening gestures which will help to build trust.
Getting him into a harness with a leash is the next logical step. A harness is better than a collar because it will let you gently steer him into situations he may initially fear.
Often, at this point, the leash is feared. Let him play with it as if it were a toy. Attach a toy or a chewie to it and drag it along the floor letting him pounce on it. In time, he will see the leash as an enjoyable experience and allow you to attach it to his harness.
Once you are both walking outside, other fearful situations will arise. Make a game of them. When you see his eyes anxious and his ears back, say Go Fast. Then run with him past the disturbance. He wants to run anyway so make it with you directing him. When you both finally stop, pat his sides joyfully and, keeping a happy tone, say Good Boy. He may still look anxious, but don’t give into the urge to pamper him. Saying it’s alright to be frightened merely reinforces the behavior.
Like children, dogs will more likely begin to interact with other dogs. Arrange a play date for him at least once a week. Playing burns off stress paramount in a shy dog’s life.
Once your severely shy dog has begun to trust you and other dogs, you may then move forward introducing him to new people, some training and, eventually, obedience school.
The Moderately Shy Dog
When you are able to pet your dog, and he is beginning to trust you, continue to protect him from other people. Before a guest enters the house, have him sit outside with this back towards the dog and his two hands, filled with treats, outstretched behind him. Gradually, he can move to his side then face the dog, but he must avoid eye contact. Eye contact is intimidating to a shy dog. Eventually, he can try to pet the dog but only on the chest and on the neck. These areas are non-threatening.
Continue this kind of people therapy every chance you get. Your goal is to socialize your shy dog and ultimately enroll him in obedience class.
For now, begin training your dog at home. Training builds a shy dog’s confidence. Teach basic commands like come, sit, lay down. Experts suggest the book So Your Dog’s Not Lassie for home schooling. Praise him for every little thing he does right.
Play can also build self confidence. When you play tug of war with your dog, let him win at least one-half of the time. This boosts his confidence in himself.
Take your dog with you every chance you get. He should run at least one errand with you everyday. If he is frightened, act happy. Pretend he’s not afraid and, in time, he’ll begin to believe it too.
Now, you can attempt that obedience class which will continue to socialize him around people and around other dogs. Even if you must leave the class at the start because he is fearful, act happy: Make it a pleasant experience. It doesn’t matter if he doesn’t do well at the tasks in class; the goal is to build self confidence.
Most shy dogs can become confident, happy canines with positive training and time. Let your dog set his own pace, and remember to praise him liberally whenever he overcomes a hurdle.

Easy games to teach dogs

2007-11-16T21:07:00.000+07:00

Teaching and playing simple games with your animal like hide and seek or fetch create a closer relationships between pet and owner.

Dogs have been regarded as man’s best friend for centuries. The role that most dogs enjoy the most is pleasing their masters. Whether your dog is just a puppy, or whether he is full-grown, he will still enjoy learning and playing new games with you. Teaching your dog a few simple games can lead to hours of enjoyment and a stronger bond between you both.
One of the most common games, of course, is the game of fetch. It usually isn’t that difficult to teach a dog to run after something you have thrown. It is more difficult, however, to teach them the concept of returning the object to you. Your best bet is to find an object that your pet really desires, wave it in front of him, and toss it a short distance away. Squat down and call him in an excited and pleased voice. If he doesn’t bring it back, however, don’t scold him. Wait till he comes to you either with or without the object. If he brings the object to you, praise him excessively and throw it again. If he doesn’t bring it to you, calmly pick up the object and keep trying. He’ll get it eventually.
You can vary the game of fetch by throwing the object into the water. Use caution, however, when playing this game. You don’t want a puppy to swim out very far. He might become exhausted, and the risk of drowning could occur. Start throwing your object a short distance and gradually increase it based on your dog’s strength and endurance.
You can also hide favorite objects and encourage your dog to hunt for them. You might want to start out hiding a rawhide bone or a doggie treat. The scent of the bone or treat will encourage your dog to put his nose to the ground in search of the hidden treasure. Once he becomes more familiar with the game, show him an object, instruct him to stay, and hide the object. You might have to help him begin the hunt, but most dogs love to search for things.
Another game that some dogs love to play is hide and seek. You will need someone else to help you with this one. Have someone hold your dog. Be sure and get his attention, then walk quickly or run to a hiding place. Have your friend release your dog. If he doesn’t immediately start searching for you, make a sound or call his name. Once he finds you, praise him, and start the hiding process again. Your dog will love to hunt for you.
Dogs often love challenges, and a good obstacle course can be just the thing to get your dog up and running. You can easily set up an obstacle course in your yard using buckets, tires, ropes, wooden sticks or logs, and anything else you might have on hand. Set the course up, leaving enough space for your dog to run a few yards between each obstacle. Place a leash on your dog, and encourage him to jog with you towards the obstacle. If he doesn’t jump the first time, don’t worry. Just keep repeating the course. When you have practiced it enough times that he seems to understand what to do, remove his leash and run beside him, pointing at the obstacle. Eventually, he will learn the pattern and can follow the course with little direction from you.
These are just some of the many games that you can develop and teach to your dog. Playing and spending time with your dog will lead to a happier and better behaved animal.

Exercise for Dogs

2007-10-19T21:02:00.000+07:00

by David the Dogman

Most veterinarians will caution pet owners not to exercise a dog right after feeding him. This is certainly true of strenuous exercise, which can make a dog throw up and can lead to gastric torsion. A recent study by the Divisions of Nutritional Sciences at Cornell University proved that exercise after eating seems to burn up more calories by raising the body's rate of metabolism.

After eating, many dogs will lie down to digest their food. While sleeping a pet will burn up a few calories in just keeping his heart and lungs going. This sluggish behaviour can only encourage the animal to put on weight and to put on fat. It now makes sense to take your dog for a walk not more than a half-hour after his big meal of the day. This very gentle exercise will also stimulate his digestion. Then after a few hours have gone by, you can put him through a more demanding regimen of activity.

For smaller breeds, simply taking a dog outdoors to relieve himself constitutes a certain amount of exercise. Exercise assists but does not cause defecation and a dog does not need exercise to loosen his bowels unless he is ill.

RUNNING

The cheetah is the fastest land animal known and has been clocked in short bursts up to sixty miles an hour. Dogs in the wild do a lot of running but mostly when they are hunting or chasing prey. Taking a dog on a daily run is not necessarily in its best interest. Dogs should never be run on hard surfaces like pavements or paved roads but on earth. If you insist on having your dog jog then make certain that the pace is a fast walk or trot rather than a run, of course this should never be allowed in hot weather. Always check the dog's feet after a run for cuts and rawness.

DANGERS OF HEAT

A dog can sweat through his feet pads, and tongue. He does not have the heat releasing mechanisms of many other animals. Dogs are susceptible to heatstroke and other related problems. Dogs that were bred for cold climates such as Huskies, Akita's have been transplanted by people to warm climates this is not natural and one can expect behavioural and health problems.

Dogs react to heat by panting or digging holes in the earth under shady trees or bushes. Locking dogs in closed cars can be because a car heats up and so do dogs. Exercise raises your dog's metabolism and boosts his temperature, which in turn can turn to heatstroke. For obese dogs the problem is worse. Never exercise a dog in the heat of the day and keep his weight under control. It also a good idea to give your dog his water dish to enable him to drink before a walk.

Commitment, Firmness, but kindness.

Exercise for Dogs
by David the Dogman

David is a Canine Behaviourist who works and lives in Marbella, Spain. Tel/Fax (00345) 2883388. His web site is located at: www.thedogman.net. David has his own radio and TV shows, and writes for many newspapers and magazines. David has been working with dogs for many years and started his career in Israel, working on the Border Police. He has been involved in all forms of training, including air sea rescue, air scent work, and has trained dogs for finding drugs. David has devoted the past 10 years to studying behaviour and the very passive approach. He does not use choke chains, check chains, or any form of aggression.

Basic First Aid

2007-10-19T21:01:00.000+07:00

by David the Dogman

As an ardent reader of the Collins Dog Photoguide I came across this article, which I feel, might be of interest to readers.

Traffic Accidents
A traffic accident is probably the most common cause of serious injury to a cat or dog. Always approach the animal with caution, it may react aggressively because of the pain.

Move the dog as little as possible, but if you must move it, it is probably best to use a blanket, sliding it underneath the dog. Seek the assistance of another person and lift the dog gently to safety. Check for heartbeat and any haemorrhaging. Attempt to stem excessive bleeding by holding a clean pad or clean handkerchief over the wound, binding it tightly with a makeshift bandage. Call the nearest vet's surgery to warn of your arrival.

Burns
The only recommended first aid is to clean off the offending substance and immerse the body part under cold running water for as long as possible. Seek professional advice immediately.

Heat Stroke
This occurs most commonly when a dog has been left alone on a hot day without ventilation. If your dog has not already collapsed it may be panting, vomiting or frothing at the mouth.

Remove froth and lower the dog's temperature as soon as possible by placing or dousing the animal in cold water. Take the dog to the vet immediately where it will be treated with drugs and more cold water.

Poisoning
Signs of poisoning may include collapse, muscular twitching, vomiting, bleeding or convulsion. Do not hesitate to contact the vet. Take some of the noxious substance to the vet with you if you know what it is. If the dog has recently swallowed the poison, try to make it vomit. Salt and mustard in water will usually work quickly, or a small piece of washing soda (sodium carbonate0 pushed down the throat.

Drowning
It is a popular misconception that all dogs can swim, but this is not always the case. You must attempt to empty the dog's lungs of water as soon as possible. Place the dog's head lower than its body, open its mouth and begin to pump the chest by pressing down on the ribs and releasing the pressure immediately. Repeat at five-second intervals.

Choking
Sometimes a piece of stick, bone or small rubber ball may get stuck in a dog's throat. Your dog may be unable to breath as a result and swift action is necessary.

Open the dog's mouth carefully and see if you can see the object. Pumping the chest, as in the case of drowning (see above) may dislodge the foreign body, get your dog to the vet as soon as possible where the object can be removed under anaesthetic.

Commitment, Firmness, but kindness.

Chillin' Out: Keeping Your Dog Cool in Hot Weather

2007-10-19T20:59:00.000+07:00

by Andi Wize

Sunny summer days seem to incite all sorts of fun activities with your dog: from playing fetch in the park to frisbee on the beach. Unfortunately, as temperatures soar, the hot weather also brings with it some very specific hazards such as sunburn, heat exhaustion and heat stroke. Good news, these threats to your pooch are preventable.

Protecting Your Dog from Sunburn

Just like humans, dogs can be burned by the sun, especially the nose, tips of the ears and around the lip area. Commonsense dictates that you keep your dog in the shade during the hours when the sun's rays are most intense - usually between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. However, if you need to be outside during these times, it's okay to apply sun-block to your dog's nose and the exposed skin on the ears. It's a little risky to apply sun-block around the lips so instead just keep a close watch and make sure that the area doesn't get too pink. If you notice that any portion of your dog's skin is reddened or blistered, contact your veterinarian right away.

Protecting Your Dog from Heat Exhaustion or Heat Stroke

Leaving a dog in a parked car during summer weather is the leading cause of heat stroke. Dogs can also suffer heat exhaustion or heat stroke if they exercise too heavily on a hot, humid day or, if they live outdoors and don't have shelter from the sun. Dogs are also susceptible if they are overweight or suffer from lung or heart ailments. Older dogs are less tolerant of heat and may succumb to heat strokes more readily than younger dogs.

A few simple actions on your part can help protect your dog from heat exhaustion and heat stroke:

Don't take your dog with you on errands if you need to leave her in the car. However, if you're traveling with your dog and must make a stop, even for the shortest period of time, consider leaving the air conditioner on.

If you're accustomed to taking your dog with you when power-walking, jogging or cycling, don't push her on exceptionally hot days. If she falls behind, let her take a break.

For dogs who live outside, make sure to provide "all-day shade" such as a ventilated doghouse, large beach umbrella or overhang that will remain shaded even when the sun shifts throughout the day.

Keep older dogs and those with lung or heart conditions inside your home on hot days. If you don't have air conditioning, keep a fan running.

Avoid any situations that force your dog to stand on sun-baked surfaces such as cement sidewalks, a truck bed or beach sand. The extreme heat can cause blisters on her pads. If you simply must walk your dog in the heat of the day, tread on grassy areas as much as possible.

Water, Water, Water!

And last but not least...like you, your dog needs to hydrate frequently so be sure to provide unlimited access to cool, clean refreshing drinking water.

Chillin' Out: Keeping Your Dog Cool in Hot Weather
by Andi Wize

Article by Dog-and-Cat-Training.com Visit www.dog-and-cat-training.com/dog-training/ for more dog training articles, over 100 dog and cat tips, and more!

Jumping Up 2

2007-10-19T20:33:00.000+07:00

by David the Dogman

Teach your dog to sit whenever you ask him to. Sit at the kerb when you cross the road. Sit in front of you. Then when he runs at you, or anyone else, if told sit he will sit.

BUT it has to be practised, and used constantly, not just now and then.

When he sits as you have asked reward him with a titbit...a very tiny one.

Sit while his food is being prepared.

Lying down is another skill that is useful. Lie down, I am busy. Lie down, I want to watch TV. Lie down, while we eat.

If you say DOWN when he jumps up, the word does not mean lie down on the ground and keep still...it means stand on four legs and don't jump up. So you need to use another word, like LIE, or FLAT, for him...

Also QUIET is often the noisiest word in the English language for dog owners ...and all it does is make him think you are helping him bark. So WHISPER "quiet."

When he is excited and jumps at you, turn round and walk away. Pretend you cant see him. Don't speak or shout at him as that is still acknowledging him and he wants your attention. Only speak when he has settled down...it will take time at first but he ought to learn that jumping up is useless as nothing nice happens when he does it...or nasty for that matter. Nothing at all happens.

If he asks to be petted, DON'T. Keep your hands away. Don't sit and stroke him absent mindedly as that gives him too much attention and makes him feel much more important than you are. When he goes away from you, then you can call him and YOU pet him, not because he has forced you to, but because you want to. I have petting times...when I call my dog and make a fuss of her...not too much or she will over excite.

If he asks to play, don't play. Ignore him. Then a few minutes later, IF it is convenient, you call him and start to play.

Pack leaders eat first, and you are the pack leader...he isn't...so he has to learn that...but just eating before him will show him you are boss.

Pack leaders go through doors first...so he must not rush through in front of you.

His change of diet ought to help, but it wont happen overnight...it will take about six weeks, as he will still have the elements of the old food in his system. Many foods on the market have the same effect as those that excite hyperactive children. I had help with this from someone who works with them in the NHS. One Smartie can cause a problem if red is what triggers a child. The same with the dogs. Can be colouring, preservatives or content.

(By the way, red dyes in carpets can cause skin problems.)

If you have been shouting at him, and most people do...dogs can be very annoying...then stop, and WHISPER to him. Their hearing is fifty times more acute than ours...they can hear a beetle walk across the floor.

Commitment, Firmness, but kindness.

Jumping Up

2007-10-19T20:31:00.000+07:00

Recently a man wrote to me about his dog jumping up and I produce part of the letter and my reply:

"I have been doing the off command as a dog trainer told me since he was small and kneed him in the chest all to no avail. I have put him on his leash with choke collar and he is still tugging away. I use the sit command and eventually he calms down enough but that initial greeting is a horror story every time. It has become very frustrating and obviously not pleasant for others. I'll just keep trying."

Give up it will not work. The knee in the chest is so outdated and in my opinion bad advice to ask any pet owner to knee his dog. Pet owners have enough emotional problems and like you give up.

If a dog is jumping up,most pet dog owners will have all hell trying to get a dog to sit. Lets get it right, sorry for being blunt but I shoot from the hip! Most people have never bothered to attend a training school, read a book and now expect to train a dog by letter, well I do not think it can be done.

Dogs react to a trigger like a doorbell for excitement, it is an arrival of another member of the pack, I must jump to show I am the host. With jumping dogs I like to consider removing excitable triggers. The front door bell rings, before opening the door I put away the dog. I am the host not the dog, this raises my status and reduces the dogs.

I bring my guests in. To me my dogs are not big, to me my dogs do not smell, to others they are big, they smell. I also advise my pet owners that what is acceptable to me is not always acceptable to my friends. It is a good idea to remove all excitability when entering your own home. Try walking in without looking, touching or talking for 5 minutes. After 5 minutes then talk and love you dog. This has removed the excitability trigger.

For dogs that jump up we have to think that a dog will do what is rewarding, if its good he does it, if it is not good he does not do it. Simple as that.

When a dog jumps up, do not be aggressive and knee, simply hold him up by his front paws and in a loving voice tell him you love him. He has jumped up so you react by holding him up. Do not let him down, keep him up as long as you can. By keeping him up, I mean stretching him up, and up and keep talking. He will then start to mouth your hands, then and only then drop him down. Do not place him, drop him.

When he is on all four legs which God gave him, love him to bits, cuddle and talk. Then encourage him to jump again, he might well try, as soon as he does grab the paws and repeat the whole exercise.

It is important to get the timing right, it is important that the whole family learn. Your dog will learn in a few minutes that to jump will make you react and he will not find this rewarding.

Its easy, simple and kind..

Commitment, Firmness, but kindness.

Jumping Up
by David the Dogman

David is a Canine Behaviourist who works and lives in Marbella, Spain. Tel/Fax (00345) 2883388. His web site is located at: www.thedogman.net. David has his own radio and TV shows, and writes for many newspapers and magazines. David has been working with dogs for many years and started his career in Israel, working on the Border Police. He has been involved in all forms of training, including air sea rescue, air scent work, and has trained dogs for finding drugs. David has devoted the past 10 years to studying behaviour and the very passive approach. He does not use choke chains, check chains, or any form of aggression.

Jumping Up 2

Your Dog Can Speak!

2007-10-19T20:22:00.000+07:00

by Gareth Heath

Although dog barking can be a serious problem for those owners who live in apartments, teaching your dog to bark on your command is one of the coolest tricks you can teach him. I like to call this "Bark On Command." Here's how you can teach your dog to bark on your command:

Wait for a door bell or anything that may cause your dog to bark. The moment he starts to bark, say: "Speak, Speak ... , Good Boy (or Girl of course) , Good speak..." Repeat this for a couple of days and keep in mind that you will get the best result if this can be practiced a few times per day. You can even stimulate your dog to bark; for example if you know that he barks when the doorbell rings, use that as a stimulator and get him to bark and immediately say your magic sentence: Speak , Speak, ... One thing to remember is whenever your are praising your dog using your voice, the more excitement in your voice the better the results. Try to use a high pitched tone of voice.

After practicing this for a few days, you can start ordering your dog to speak. Tell him to speak and then wait for him to speak. Sometimes it help if you go ahead and mimmic a dog bark yourself even if it may sound like a silly idea to you. You can also hold a cookie in your hand if you usually use a treat when teaching your dog new tricks. This will let your dog know that he is about to receive something good for doing what he's been asked for. This will allow him to be more relaxed and also help him to realize that this is just a playful, positive training session. Use of a treat is specially powerful if you have been punishing your dog before for barking.

After her very first bark on command reduce the frequency of your magic sentence when he barks on her own. But still ask him to bark a few times per day and praise him for that. Eventually you should not say anything or even go back to your "shushig" when he barks on his own. This way, he can distinguish between the two and will realize that even though he will be praised when he barks on your command, he might get punished for barking on his own or joy barking.

One more thing that can be useful here: if you're using a treat, try to give him the treat after asking him to do one more thing for you. For example, after you asked him to speak and he barked praise him with your voice, then ask him to sit and only then give him the treat. This way he won't get the idea that if he barks he will get a cookie, this is a very bad habit and unfortunately very common.

Another use of the "Speak" command is to see where you are standing in your dog's hierarchy of status, i.e. to figure out who is the alpha there, you or your dog. When you ask your dog to speak, if he just looks into your eyes and barks, it will probably means that he considers you as his equal or even worse, he thinks that he's the alpha dog and your leader; but if he is not comfortable looking into your eyes when he barks and looks in other directions, it means that he has a lot of respect for you as the leader of the pack and the alpha. congratulations!

Your Dog Can Speak!
by Gareth Heath

Gareth heath writes about humane, nonviolent approaches to dog training. You can read more about this or other subjects such as health and grooming, dealing with dog problems, and many more on his website at www.thehappydogsclub.com.

Dog Sports for every Breed

2007-10-19T20:08:00.000+07:00

by Jack Russell

Engaging in sports is not only for humans. It is also well-loved by our best friend, the dog. Dog sports do not only make a dog's life fun, but healthy, as well. Here is a list of dog sports that you may want your dog to get involved into depending on his breed, of course.

Agility
This is when a dog moves through an obstacle course, i.e., contact obstacles, tunnels, jump, etc., as guided by his or her handler. What controls the dog is only its handler's voice and body language. Without a leash, obedience training is the major requirement for a dog to enjoy this sport. Speed and accuracy are the names of this game.

Carting
Large breeds usually participate in this dog sport. It mainly involves the dog pulling a cart filled with supplies like firewood or other farm goods, sometimes even pulling people. It is also known as dry land mushing and sulky driving and is well-known and practiced all over the world.

Frisbee Dog
Commonly known as disc dog, Frisbee dog competition is about a dog and a human disc thrower competing in events such as a choreographed freestyle catching and distance catching. The division of events on this kind of dog sport depends on the handler's skill and experience. What makes this one of the most popular dog sports is that any kind of dog can participate.

Flyball
This dog sport is a relay wherein teams of dogs race against each other leaving their handlers. These teams need to surmount four hurdles that are placed 3 meters apart from each other. Then, they have to reach a box that will release a tennis ball that needs to be caught when the dog presses the pad which is spring-loaded. Then, they have to go back to their respective handlers while carrying the ball.

Scootering
It is a sport where one or more dogs pull an unmotorized scooter in which a human is riding. It is similar to another dog sport done in the winter known as mushing, only dog scooter involves fewer dogs and instead of a dogsled used in mushing, a scooter is used. Like sled dogs, dogs that are doing scootering wear harnesses and are hooked to the scooter using a gangline.

Sheepdog Trial
Also known as "dog trial", this is one of the competitive dog sports in which breeds that are into herding move sheep around a field, gates, fences or enclosures as directed by their handlers. Think of "babe" the movie about a pig. This is more popular in UK, Canada, Ireland, the USA, New Zealand, Australia and other farming nations.

Dog Sports for every Breed
by Jack Russell

Jack Russell is a a long time dog fancier, visit his Dog Resources Blog and download his Free Dog Owners Handbook - it's Dog Gone Good! www.daveshealthbuzz.com/dogcare

Dog Hygiene Basics

2007-10-19T20:06:00.000+07:00

by Eric Shannon

Giving your dog a bath is important, but not as critical as most people seem to believe. If your dog is healthy, he really doesn't need to be bathed more that once every few months, but most of us put them in the tub or under the hose more often to get rid of that doggie smell and look shinier. Although most dogs do not enjoy getting a bath, it is a good bonding experience. They will appreciate the contact and attention they get from their owner. This is also an excellent time to do some other required "maintenance" tasks that we often forget about, such as ear cleaning, brushing their teeth, and checking for fleas and ticks. It is much easier to do all these things at once since most dogs don't enjoy sitting through these activities for very long.

Let's go into further detail about these maintenance tasks to make sure your dog stays healthy and happy for a long time.

To clean your dog's ears, check your local pet store for special solutions designed specifically for this purpose. It is common for dogs to attract ear mites, which are small insects that live in the waxy secretions. As time goes by, the mite gets larger and you will start to notice a dirty black substance in your dog's ear. Take a q-tip, dip it in the ear cleaning solution, and gently swab the entire ear. Your dog might squirm, but hold him down, because it won't take long. And when you're done, he'll have clean ears and be much less likely to get earaches or infections.

One of the most overlooked maintenance tasks is brushing your dog's teeth. Many dog owners only do this once or twice per year. Can you imagine how gross your mouth would feel if you didn't brush for six months? Your dog feels the same way. It's never too late to start doing this. You will need a special toothbrush and toothpaste designed for dogs. These are easily found in any pet store for under ten dollars. Be certain to brush the back teeth, and use small circular motions like your dentist used to tell you to do. This task will be easier than the ear cleaning, because the dog toothpaste is made to taste good. Your dog should enjoy the treat.

The last thing to check for is fleas and ticks. Ticks are nasty little bugs that dig themselves into your dog's skin and live by sucking their blood. Be especially careful if you live near wooded areas where ticks are most common. However, no matter where you live, check for ticks often, because they carry several harmful diseases. Ticks are the transport method of Lyme Disease, which will slowly destroy your dog's joints and suck out all his energy. Many dogs with Lyme Disease are in such pain that they need to be put down. So check often! Pay special attention to the most common hiding areas, which are under the collar or along the underbelly. If you find one, simply pull it off with tweezers.

Fleas aren't as potentially harmful as ticks, but they are much more of a nuisance. If you don't catch them quickly enough, your other pets can catch them, your kids can catch them, and you might have to get your home fumigated. You can find them under the fur, in the same places where ticks hang out. If you see little things that look like specks of pepper, those are flea droppings. The actual flea will be dark in color and about the size of a grain of rice. If you do find one, call your local vet's office and ask about flea treatments.

Dog Hygiene Basics
by Eric Shannon

Eric Shannon is a freelance author who also publishes the Dog Lovers Report, which is a biweekly newsletter with a very large readership. He also runs Beds For Doggies, which carries a large selection of Dog Beds, Dog Couches, and Dog Furniture.

Grooming Man's Best Friend

2007-10-19T18:34:00.000+07:00

by David Riewe

Proper grooming for your dog does not only have aesthetic purposes but also adds to your pet's holistic growth - physical and psychological. Since dog hair can interlace due to dirt and grime in the coat forming mats and tangles, they would need to be groomed to keep proper hygiene. Plus grooming generates more bonding time with your pet, creating a stronger relationship.

It is best to train your dog to be groomed at an early age. But, an untrained dog can still be taught to accept all the attention. Train your pet to get used to his body parts being handled and brushed. You need not go to a professional groomer, but if you don't have the time or the interest to groom your dog, be sure to select a groomer that handles the animals gently.

Things to Remember in Grooming your Dog

Make a daily examination of your pet's body parts. Look out for bumps, hot spots, inflammation, irritation, vegetative matter, and parasites like fleas and ticks in his coat. Get rid of fleas by using a fine-toothed comb while ticks can be tweezed off. Ears should be checked - droop ears are inclined to infection which can lead to permanent hearing loss. Examine your companion's pads - dirt, grime, pebbles, chemicals can get caught that can infect his paws.

Brushing doesn't only remove mats, it also takes away dead hair, thus eliminating animal odor. Tangles can also be very painful for your dog that may lead to skin inflammation. Grooming during shedding encourages growth of new coat, so brush especially after physical exercise. Nails should be trimmed every month, especially if your dog has a hard time walking. Dental hygiene is maintained by using dog toothpaste and toothbrush with soft bristles twice a week. A damp cotton cloth is used to remove mucus from your dog's eyes. While a coarse rug is appropriate in cleaning your pet's face.

When bathing your pet, make sure that you brush away dead hairs first to clear all the mats in his coat. Soak your pet in warm water. Apply a pet shampoo in small amounts. Target areas are the eyes, ears, rectum, toes and under the chin. Avoid getting soap water into his eyes and ears. You also have an option to apply coat conditioner after bathing. Different breeds require varying bath frequency; consult the local pet grooming shop if you're not sure how many times you should bath your dog.

It is recommended that a dog owner has his own home grooming kit. It includes a grooming brush, clippers for dog toenails, combs with varying teeth (fine, medium coarse), dog shampoo, coat conditioner, and a coarse rug.

Grooming Man's Best Friend
by David Riewe

David Riewe is a long time dog fancier, visit his Dog Resources Blog and download his Free Dog Owners Handbook - it's Dog Gone Good! www.daveshealthbuzz.com/dogcare

Dog Grooming - Maintaining a Posh Pup

2007-10-19T18:30:00.000+07:00

by Paolo Basauri

Dog Grooming - It's Not Just for Poodles Anymore

Dog grooming is not simply an aesthetic bonus for our canine friends. Maintaining a regular grooming schedule will help to keep your dog both happy and healthy. Routine dog grooming will ensure that your dog is free of parasites, has healthy skin and a shiny coat, and has good dental health. Of course, the aesthetic benefits are also a plus. Only a true dog lover wants to be around a dirty, stinky dog with bad breath. Proper dog grooming will bring out the best in man's best friend.

What's Involved in Dog Grooming?

While dog grooming can be performed at home, the best results can be achieved via a professional dog groomer. A thorough dog grooming session takes care of all the hygienic needs of your dog. The grooming process generally takes a hour or two to accomplish, but the results are well worth the time spent. A typical dog grooming session consists of the following treatments for your dog:

- A thorough bath including flea dip (if applicable)
- A complete coat brushing to eliminate tangles and matted hair
- Styling as requested (can include accessories such as bows, rhinestones and bandannas)
- Nail trimming
- Ear cleaning and examination for parasites
- Teeth cleaning

How Often Should Dog Grooming Take Place?

The frequency with which your should groom your dog is dependent on the breed and coat quality of your dog. Some breeds are considered high maintenance in terms of dog grooming, while others need only periodic care. Before you purchase or adopt a dog, it's a good idea to find out how much grooming it will require. A basic guide to dog grooming by coat type is as follows:

- Curly-Coated - Dogs such as Poodles have a dense and curly coat that is fairly resistant to water. These dogs will require dog grooming at least once every two months, or six times a year. - Short-Coated - Dogs with short dense coats, such as Corgis and Boxers need a weekly brushing, but do not need to be bathed more than once or twice a year unless a problem arises.
Long-Coated - Long coated dogs, such as Collies and Sheepdogs, require a daily brushing to keep their coats in good condition. Additional dog grooming including regular bathing, should be administered once every other month.
- Silky-Coated - Afghans, Cocker Spaniels and Pekingese dogs belong to the silky coated dog group. These dogs require daily brushing and a thorough dog grooming session four times a year.
- Wire-Coated - Wire coated dogs require considerable dog grooming. Dogs such as Terriers and Schnauzers should be bathed every three months and have their coat clipped every six to eight weeks.
- Smooth-Coated - The smooth-coated class of dogs includes Labrador Retrievers, Doberman Pinschers and Dachshunds. These are very low maintenance dogs and require only weekly brushing and bathing as necessary.

Whatever type of dog you own, it's important to see that proper grooming is maintained for the health and happiness of your canine companion.

Dog Grooming - Maintaining a Posh Pup
by Paolo Basauri

Paolo Parodi is an expert author who writes for Dog Grooming.

Veggies For Your Pets?

2007-10-19T18:25:00.000+07:00

by Sylvia Riley

Vegetables in your dog's diet, and minor amounts in your cat's diet, can enhance their health and provide a rich and diverse supply of nutrients, enzymes, healthy fibre and antioxidants. In the wild, dogs and cats would have acquired plant foods through the semi-digested remnants in the stomachs of their prey; vegetables, fruits, nuts and seeds.

Canines possess a greater ability to break down plant matter and synthesize relevant nutrients therein. Because of this, although classified as carnivores, they are in fact omnivorous and are not solely reliant on animal meat for sustenance. Wolves can be observed eating fallen fruit and berries, and first consume the stomach and intestines of their prey where plant foods can be found.

Felines on the other hand are obligate carnivores and are unable to manufacture essential nutrients from plant matter. These include the amino acids taurine and arginine, and the fatty acid arachidonic acid. Unlike omnivores cats also cannot convert vitamin A from beta-carotene in plants and need animal-derived sources of vitamin A such as liver. Accept for smaller prey which cats eat whole, in the wild the stomach and intestines tend to be avoided, yet organs such as heart, liver and lungs are enjoyed.

Cats require a lot more protein in their diet than dogs and are in no way adapted to digesting carbohydrates. In the wild vegetable matter in their diet is minimal and in a semi-digested state in the guts of their prey. Cats can rely pretty much entirely on protein and fat for energy conversion, both being converted into glucose by the liver, and other essential nutrients can be gained through meat, soft tissue and bones.

Thankfully pet owners are beginning to move away from toxic, poor grade and species-inappropriate commercial pet food. Natural, holistic, homemade and raw diets are being favored, which can include healthy plant-based ingredients (not grains however, which are used as cheap fillers in commercial products and ill-suited the physiology of cats and dogs). The beauty with homemade meals is that you can ensure fresh quality ingredients and easily incorporate vegetables and fruit.

Where dogs can eat around 30% plant foods in their daily diet, cats only require around 5-10%. With both, ensure veggies are blended well as they do not easily digest cellulose. This also makes it easy to mix the vegetables with the rest of the homemade meal. As cats only require a very small proportion of veggies in their meal, you can blend veggies and freeze the mix in an ice-cube tray, defrosting one cube a day for their meals.

Include a range of vegetables and always aim to include something green. Green vegetables contain chlorophyll which is cleansing and detoxifying. Chlorophyll is a great liver ally, assisting in the removal of toxins and heavy metals from the body and also shows anti-carcinogenic potential. Human studies in China have found that chlorophyll may help delay the onset of symptoms of liver cancer caused by mycotoxic grains as are sometimes found in commercial pet foods.

You can use throw away vegetable parts such as outer leaves, ends and stems or left over cooked vegetables that you don't consume. Raw is always preferable however as nutrient and enzyme content is maximum.

You can supplement your dog or cat's diet with superfoods such as kelp or alfalfa (the latter more suited for dogs) and algae such as chlorella and spirulina. These are very alkalizing however and as dogs and cats in particular require an acidic diet, only very small amounts are advisable. Always research dosage amounts before giving any kind of supplements.

Vegetable Choices

You can experiment with most vegetables. Try any of the following: carrots, celery, chard, spinach, avocados, kale, squash, watercress, cabbage, turnips, broccoli, peas, green beans, cauliflower and asparagus.

Some below-ground vegetables such as carrots and sweet potatoes are included here. These are higher in sugar content however and as such should be used in smaller proportion to any above-ground vegetable choices. You can add some occasional fruit also such as blueberries, bananas, apples, papaya or pear.

As a note, raw onions are not friendly on your pet's digestive system and can be dangerous to their health so should be avoided. Garlic is also a health risk for cats, though minor amounts occasionally in your dog's diet may serve as a natural flea repellent, be sparing however as the sulphides in garlic can be detrimental to the blood cells of animals. I also avoid tomatoes, peppers, cucumber and potato.

Nuts and seeds can also be a valuable addition to your pet's diet, containing healthy oils (walnuts and flaxseeds are particularly high in omega-3 oils), as well as vitamin E and minerals such as selenium (a powerful antioxidant particularly high in Brazil nuts).

You can grind your nuts and seeds before adding to your pet's meal. Only small amounts are needed; for larger dogs aim for one nut or a few seeds a day, smaller dogs and cats every few days.

If you would like to change your pet's diet to a healthy, holistic, species-appropriate diet or are embarking on a natural homemade or raw food diet research the area first as nutritional balance is essential.

Veggies For Your Pets?
by Sylvia Riley

Natural Nutrition Guide for Dogs and Cats: www.pet-nutrition-guide.com. Miracle SuperFoods: www.miracle-superfoods.com.

Tips For Making Your Own Homemade Dog Meals and Treats

2007-10-19T18:23:00.001+07:00

by Rose Smith

Dog meals and snacks don't have to hard to make or take a lot of time. Many snacks can be grabbed straight out of your refrigerator and are much healthier than baked goods.

However, there are a few things that I have noticed regarding many homemade dog food recipes that you should avoid doing.

1. Don't microwave your dog's food. Microwaving kills vitamins, minerals and nutrients. The radiation also alters the cell structure of the food. Scientific studies have shown that humans that eat microwaved foods have significant and disturbing changes in their blood cells. Microwaving has many serious side-effects, including altering the minerals in vegetables into cancerous free radicals. It's bad enough that we humans continue to use microwaves to cook our food... let's not subject our animals to it as well.

2. Many recipes that I've seen promote using beef/chicken bouillon cubes and/or canned beef/chicken broth. These products have very high and unhealthy sodium levels. Either use sodium reduced broths or better yet make your own.

3. Obviously, some sort of flour is needed to bind together baked dog biscuits. However, instead of using white flour, whole wheat flour and/or cornmeal in your recipes, substitute spelt flour instead. It's much more easily digestible for both humans and animals. Flour and cornmeal are hard for animals to digest and many are or can become allergic to these grains.

4. Don't feed your dog too many "baked" treats that contain flour and cornmeal. Opt for more natural, healthy, and uncooked treats (some recipes are listed below).

Healthy Homemade Dog Food Recipes

You can make up several days worth of dog food at one time or cook them up while you prepare your own supper. Here are a few recipes to try out:

***** Shepherd Pie *****

6 oz beef or chicken broth (low sodium or make your own) 1 pound ground beef, chicken or turkey 1 cup mashed potatoes 1/2 cup mixed vegetables (no onions or mushrooms)

Mix broth, meat and vegetables together. Grease casserole dish and pat mixture into dish. Top with potatoes. Bake at 300 degrees for 30 minutes.

***** Sometimes your dog may have a slightly upset stomach with possibly some diarrhea involved. The following recipe is a nice bland mixture that still tastes good and should help to solve your pup's tummy problems.

3 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut up (either raw or cooked) 1 cup cooked brown rice 1 cup cooked carrots 1 cup non or low-fat cottage cheese

Mix together and serve according to you're dog's size, weight and activity level. This recipe should be good for one large dog for 1 main meal or 2 smaller meals. If you desire, you can also add 1 tbsp of flax seed oil for added essential fatty acids.

***** Quick Dog Treats *****

Dogs, like humans, like to have their snacks. The following two snacks are healthy and quick to prepare:

***** Frosty Cube Treats *****

1 large container plain yogurt (make sure it contains live acidophilus cultures and no sugar or artificial sweeteners) 1 cup ground carrots OR ground apples OR lightly cooked ground liver

Mix together and fill ice-cube trays. Freeze. Pop one out for a treat when frozen.

***** Banana Mash *****

1/2 cup low fat cottage cheese 1 ripe banana, mashed 1 tbsp flax seed oil

Mix together and serve for a nice, quick, healthy snack.

Tips For Making Your Own Homemade Dog Meals and Treats
by Rose Smith

Rose Smith owns www.CaringForCanines.com Where dog owners can explore the benefits of holistic dog medicines and remedies. Find information on topics such as: dog nutrition, dog health problems, herbal &vitamin supplements, dog grooming, and more.

Dog Treat Ingredients to Avoid

2007-10-19T18:19:00.000+07:00

by Todd Jones

There are many websites on the Internet that provide access to dog treat recipes. Many of these recipes are excellent resources for providing your dogs with healthy treats that are affordable and nutritious. As with any information that you find on the Internet, however, you should do quite a bit of your own research before using any of the dog treat recipes. This research should include ensuring that each of the ingredients is not harmful to your dog. This is necessary because many ingredients that we would not consider harmful could cause irreversible health problems and even fatalities in dogs.

Raisins are one example of an ingredient that should be avoided in dog treat recipes. Both grapes and raisins have been known to cause renal failure in dogs. Although one or two grapes may not be cause for concern, these products should be avoided in dog treat recipes and you should seek veterinary intervention if your dog ingests either grapes or raisins.

Onions are another such ingredient that should never be included in dog treat recipes. Many people make the mistake of thinking that onion is a great flavor for dog treats but ingesting onions even in small doses can make dogs susceptible to a certain type of anemia. Smaller dogs are especially prone to this anemia after ingesting onions.

Before following dog treat recipes, it is important to review the ingredients to ensure that each one is safe for consumption by dogs. It is important to note that seemingly harmless ingredients can be toxic when consumed by dogs.

Dog Treat Ingredients to Avoid
by Todd Jones

Todd runs a website where you can find all sorts of homemade dog treat recipes. Sign up for a free ecourse on the benefits of incorporating homemade dog treats into your dog's diet today at: www.homemade-dog-treat-recipes.com.

Can Chocolate Really Kill Your Dog

2007-10-19T18:17:00.000+07:00

by Gregg Hall

Most of us love chocolate and love the taste, so do our dogs but the problem is that the same chocolate we love to indulge in is not good for our best friend. In this article we will explain why the consumption of chocolate is so detrimental for our dogs.

We have all heard this all of our lives but how big a threat is it really? Is it life threatening or will it just make him sick? How much chocolate does the animal have to eat for it to cause a negative reaction?

The ingredient in chocolate that makes it toxic to dogs is theobromine that is toxic to dogs in too much quantity. Theobromine is a xanthine compound in the same family of caffeine, and theophylline.

Thankfully, it takes a lot of chocolate to make a dog sick though the exact amount will differ according to the dog's individual sensitivity, its size, and the concentration of the chocolate consumed.

Different types of chocolate have varying amounts of theobromine with milk chocolate having about 44 mg of the substance per ounce, semisweet chocolate 150 mg, and Baker'S chocolate 390 mg per ounce making it the most dangerous to your pet.

With this in mind, here are some guidelines to consider:

1 ounce per 1 pound of body weight for Milk chocolate 1 ounce per 3 pounds of body weight for Semisweet chocolate 1 ounce per 9 pounds of body weight for Baker's chocolate.

So, for example, 2 oz. of Baker's chocolate can cause great risk to an 15 lb. dog. Yet, 2 oz. of Milk chocolate usually will only cause digestive problems.

Because Xanthines affect the nervous system, cardiovascular system and peripheral nerves, consumption will result in visible effects on your dog. It has a diuretic effect as well. Some of the signs include hyper excitability, hyper irritability, increased heart rate, restlessness, increased urination, muscle tremors, vomiting, and diarrhea.

There is no specific antidote for this poisoning. Administering activated charcoal may inhibit absorption of the toxin. An anticonvulsant might be indicated if neurological signs are present and needs to be controlled. Oxygen therapy, intravenous medications, and fluids might be needed to protect the heart.

Milk chocolate will often cause diarrhea 12-24 hours after ingestion. This should be treated symptomatically (fluids, etc..) to prevent dehydration.

If you suspect your pet has ingested chocolate contact your Vet immediately! They can help you determine the the proper treatment for your pet.

Can Chocolate Really Kill Your Dog
by Gregg Hall

Gregg Hall is a business consultant for online and offline businesses and lives in Navarre Florida. Get more info on chocolate for you at www.chocolates-plus.com.

Adding Essential Fatty Acids To Your Pet's Diet

2007-10-19T17:56:00.000+07:00

by Rose Smith

Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) are a requirement in everyone's diet, for both human and animal. However, the body cannot produce EFAs on its own, so it must be added to the diet each day. The two most commonly known fatty acids are omega 3 (linoleic acid) and omega 6 (alpha-linoleic acid). The diets of our pets, like people, tend to include more omega 6 fatty acids rather than omega 3. This is an imbalance that needs to be improved upon.

Omega 3 fatty acids are essential as they help with the proper formation of cell membranes, cardiovascular functions, nourish the lining of the digestive tract, and work to keep your pet's skin and coat smooth, soft and shiny. Another essential function of omega 3 fatty acids is that they work to reduce inflammatory problems in the body. If you find your pet's coat is dull and brittle or if he/she tends to have dry skin and scratch a lot, it may be due to a lack of this particular fatty acid.

There are different types of essential fatty acid supplements that are available, however which kind you choose to supplement your dog or cat's diet can be a bit of a dilemma.

Pure plant oils such as flax oil, evening primrose oil, safflower oil or a blend of plant oils is a good alternative to fish omega-3 fats. These should be "cold-pressed" oils, as opposed to oils that are typically extracted with chemical solvents. The problem with plant oils is that animals have a harder time converting the fatty acids to a form best used by the animal's system.

Fish oils, such as salmon oil, halibut liver oil, or cod liver oil are more easily converted and used by an animal's body. The downside is that fish oils often contain deadly toxins, including high levels of dangerous PCBs, dioxins and detectable levels of mercury. Farmed salmon is the worst for contamination and contains less omega 3 acids than wild salmon. At present nearly 30% of all fish are farmed, with salmon being in the 90% farmed range. As well, farmed salmon are often carriers of disease and parasites. When supplementing your pet's diet with fish oils, choose oils that come from wild sources, not farmed.

There are also blended fish and plant oil supplements available. These often include a mixture of salmon or cod liver oil and flax, safflower or other such oils that provide a mixture of 3 to 4 parts omega 3 oils to 1 part omega 6 oils. Giving your animal a combination fish/plant supplement may be a good alternative to consider, as they should contain fewer toxins since they are not strictly fish oils, yet still should be better assimilated by the animal's body than straight plant oils.

Adding Essential Fatty Acids To Your Pet's Diet
by Rose Smith

Rose Smith operates several sites featuring natural and organic relief solutions for everyday health problems - both in humans and animals. If you would like to know more about natural dog health care visit www.caringforcanines.com.

New Baby and the Family Dog

2007-10-19T17:55:00.001+07:00

by David the Dogman
I always advise that as soon as you are aware that there will be a new baby in the house, begin to prepare your family dog. Do not leave it until the new baby arrives. It is important that your dog associates the new baby with as few disruptions as possible.

It is essential to ensure that your dog has a basic understanding of good behaviour. The dog should be able to lie quietly for short periods, not jumping up, walking on a lead without pulling and coming when called are all essential.

Most dogs are used to being the "baby" in the family and may find it difficult losing this position. Get your dog used to being ignored and left alone for short periods of time every day. If it is your intention to exclude your dog from certain areas of the house after the baby arrives, establish these rules well in advance to the baby's arrival. Ideally, the dog should be excluded from the baby's bedroom.

It is a good idea to teach your dog to walk gently next to the pram, but never tying the leash to the pram, and never when unattended. The dog should also be accustomed to new items of furniture such as playpens, carry cots and high chairs before baby arrives. If possible get a tape recording of baby noises and play it in a tape recorder placed where the baby will normally be so the dog becomes socialized to these sounds. Also teach the dog the difference between his/her toys and the baby's toys.

Make sure that you develop a routine and stick to it when the baby arrives. It is important that the dog receives sufficient mental and physical stimulation. Try not to make a big deal with the dog about the arrival of the baby. Teach the dog how to approach the baby properly and gently. Allow the dog to make initial investigations and approaches.

Associate the baby's presence with positive things. Give the dog tidbits and lavish praise for desired behaviour around the baby. Do not place the baby on the floor with the dog and never shout at or hit your dog for approaching the baby incorrectly. Gently show the dog what you wish him/her to do and offer a reward for responding.

Due to the fact that a baby's immune system is not strong, ensure that your dog is healthy and is up to date with worming and vaccinations before baby arrives.

If your dog has any behavioural problems, make sure that you resolve these before baby arrives or if you are in doubt about your dogs behaviour after your baby arrives, consult your vet who can refer you to a local animal behaviour counselor.

NEVER leave any baby or child unattended with any dog.

Of course all the above rules must also apply when Grandchildren or visitors come over here for a few weeks, where dogs are not used to being or living with children.

Commitment, Firmness, but kindness.

Kids, Pets and Moving

2007-10-19T17:51:00.000+07:00

by Hayden Lilienthal
In the movie business, they say you should never work with children or animals, but if the children and animals are yours, what choice do you have? Come moving day, it is important to remember that any stress you are feeling may be multiplied many times by minds that don't understand what's going on. After all, moving usually means new friends, a new school, and a new set of worries for your children, and a complete change of territory for your pet.

One of the most important things that can help your child during the move is keeping your own stress level down. Kids pick up on parental emotions. If you're apprehensive or nervous, kids will mimic that behavior. Remember that they will have their own concerns about the move, things that would seem inconceivable to an .

Currently Grandma, Santa, the Tooth Fairy and the Easter Bunny know where they live and the bogeyman doesn't. By moving you are throwing the whole system out of whack: presents will be misdirected and chocolate eggs may never arrive ever again! So it is important to communicate with your children as much as possible and to maintain a good stress-free vibe around them.

It's best to prepare a child for a move to lessen the shock of all new surroundings, especially if it is a long way away from the previous home. After all, making friends in the playground can be a lot tougher than chatting away over coffee at the new job. At work, people have to pretend to like you, but this is not the case at school.

Some tips to make it easier for children:

- take your child along when you look at houses so they can be involved in the process and can get a full understanding of what exactly is going on
- show them their new school and try to introduce them to their new teacher if possible
- find out about local junior sporting teams and activities; sports clubs are a great way for kids and s to meet like-minded people quickly
- before you move, hold a going-away party for your child; encourage your child to keep contact with his or her old friends while encouraging new friendships
- encourage the children to take part in the moving process as much as possible so they know their things are safe and sound
- once you've selected your new house, show your child where his or her room will be; allow them to personalize the room as well, maybe even a new coat of paint so they will feel at home
- above all else, communicate with your child throughout the process.

Pets

The next problem is how to deal with the pets. Attempting to communicate with them on a personal level will generally draw a blank look or a slobbering kiss so it is up to you to make the journey as easy as possible for them. Owners will sometimes notice a change in behaviour in their animal after a move and that is the result of stress. Other symptoms will be much more subtle - just think back to your pet's reaction to new surroundings when you first brought it home.

As the moving date approaches, try to maintain your animal's routine as much as possible, including feeding, exercise and play times. Make sure your pet is wearing updated identification, and that you're carrying some kind of identification for your pet, including recent photos. If your pet escapes at any time during your move, you'll be prepared.

Vets also recommend that if you pack a water supply from the home you're leaving. Changing water sources could cause your pet stomach upset and ultimately dehydration. Keep your pet's food as bland as possible; this isn't the time to experiment with new brands or varieties. Take your pet for a thorough physical exam prior to your move, and make sure you obtain your pet's updated records from your vet.

Obviously, if it is only a short move, the animal can travel with the family in the car (depending on local regulations concerning restraints) and some movers will let dogs travel in trucks. Most vets should be able to help with travel containers which will help calm soothe pets and give them a comfort space, especially if there is a familiar sleeping rug to give it a familiar smell. Make sure they have access to water and food and if the trip is several hours long it will probably be necessary to take them out for a walk at some stage.

If you're planning a cross-country move by air, it will be necessary to check with the airline as to its pet policy. If you're contemplating having your pet travel in the cargo section of the plane, you may want to consider first that because this area is in the belly of the plane, you won't have access to your pet at any time during the flight.

While the cargo area is both heated and pressurized, this area isn't lit, so unless you tranquilize your pet first, the experience is likely to be traumatic. It is best to check with a vet about the effects of air travel on your particular pet and get their advice about what the best tranquilizer may be.

How to Choose a Dog for Children

2007-10-18T20:05:00.000+07:00

by Shannon Emmanuel

Since having a dog is such a common thing, do you really need to know anything more than how much it costs?

Well, how did you choose your car, or your home? Did you consider the cost, safety and suitability for your family? Of course you did. If you heard stories of a particular car that was susceptible to causing accidents or that a neighborhood was known for its rough occupants you would find something that was safer.

If the car or home was too expensive to maintain, it would impact your decision, as would the size of the vehicle or how many bedrooms the house had.

However, many people bring home a dog that they have spent no more time in choosing than selecting oranges at the grocery store. Although we hear stories of dogs attacking children and perhaps know of people who got rid of dogs after they grew too large for the apartment or destroyed property, as a group, parents still choose to bring dogs into their families with little instruction or research.

The truth is, most families with a dog will never deal with the terrible situations we hear about on the news. Dogs love people. Most dogs love children. Children and adults love dogs and it is very doubtful that after thousands of years the connection between canine and humankind will be broken.

What does need to be considered is how to make the best possible environment for your children and dog so that you don't need to worry about unexpected tragedy or the sad disappointment of giving your children’s pet away.

There are many experts with various views, but several points can be generally agreed upon when choosing a dog for your family.

Find a dog that is good with children.

Don’t all dogs love children? The answer is simple – NO. Some breeds, and even individuals within a breed, are more or less tolerant of children and the rough handling that usually ensues. Selecting a breed that enjoys the rambunctious atmosphere of a family home will go far in ensuring that the children have a willing playmate and the dog is happy.

Choose a dog that is the right size or energy level.

Do you live in an apartment? Do you have a large, fenced yard? Considering the size of home or yard you have should influence your choice of dog. Some breeds are naturally larger than others. Some smaller breeds (like Jack Russell Terriers) are small but have an enormous amount of energy that can be difficult to control in a small home.

Decide on a trained or untrained dog.

Perhaps you plan to train the dog yourself. You may choose a puppy so the children participate in the training process. But how much do you know about training dogs? Are you ready for the hassles of housebreaking and obedience training? Perhaps selecting an older, trained dog might suit your family better.

The decisions you make before bringing your dog home and selecting the best dog breed for children will help your family enjoy their new pet for a very long time.

Shannon Emmanuel is a freelance writer and the author of 'How to Select the Best Dog or Puppy for Your Children'. Find out more about safely raising a family dog at http://www.best-dog-breed-for-children.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com

How to Clean a Dogs Ears

2007-10-18T20:02:00.000+07:00

Even though we give them lots of good scratches, when it comes to grooming, the ears of dogs are frequently the most neglected parts of their bodies. But their ears are also one of the most important areas to attend to.
Ear infections can be serious, and can begin easily if an animals ears are not kept clean.

Make sure your to keep their ears in good shape by following these simple steps:

To Clean or Not to Clean
If a dogs ears have an offensive odor, or if he has been scratching them repeatedly, you should not remove the stuff that might have accumulated; whatever is there will be able to help your veterinarian determine the cause of the irritation and how to treat it.
If he's scratching, or if you're tempted to plug your nose while cleaning his ears, you should see your veterinarian. Your veterinarian will take a swab of the substance for examination.

Before
Before you start your scrubbing, make sure you've set up your workspace. You should have your all your supplies set out and ready to go:
cotton balls
mineral oil
cleaner — a commercially prepared ear cleaner with a low alcohol content is best.
Wash your hands thoroughly so you don't introduce any infectious particles to your dogs ears.
You may want to work with a another person; your friend can provide a distraction while you clean the ears.

Gently wipe out the ears.
Once you've determined that your dogs ears are just dirty and not full of mites or an infection, you can remove the dirt.

Using a cotton ball moistened with mineral oil, gently wipe out the inner surface of the animals earflap.
Using another clean and moisten with mineral oil cotton ball, clean out the part of the ear canal that you can see. Stop when you feel resistance — don't try to stick the cotton ball any farther into the ear than it should go.
Repeat this procedure on the other ear.
Be sure you remove any foreign matter, whether it's dirt, bugs, or just waxy buildup.

Finished
Praise your pet, give him some love and let him go on his way.
Tips on Q-Tips
While cotton swabs are a natural choice for cleaning human ears, you should not use them on animals. Not only are they less efficient, they can be dangerous. If an animal is startled and jerks his head while you are cleaning his ears, the cotton swab could get jammed into his ear canal, causing all sorts of pain and distress.
Using cotton balls is much safer; they're much softer and less likely to get stuck in the animals ears.

A Note on the Ears of Cats
Since cats are very meticulous about their hygiene, your cat probably won't need to have his ears cleaned.
His ears should be checked regularly and if you notice he is scratching his ears, or if his ears have a bad smell, you should have your veterinarian check it out.
Don't remove any substances because your veterinarian will need to take a swab of the substance to diagnose the cause of the infection.

by www.greytinspirations.com

Bad Breath & Teeth

2007-10-18T19:55:00.000+07:00

Tooth and gum problems are the most common medical condition in pets. Because bad breath in dogs and cats go hand in hand with other health problems, it is best to treat this problem on a regular basis.

What causes bad breath in pets?
The most common cause of bad breath is tartar buildup surrounding the teeth.
As in people, small particles off food remain in the mouth after eating. These particles decompose creating conditions where oral bacteria thrive. The bacteria grow to form plaque - a combination of bacteria, mineral and decomposed food. It is the plaque and associated oral infections that give the pets breath an unpleasant odor.
Plaque also clings to the base of teeth causing the gums to become inflamed and recede. Inflamed gums leak blood serum that combines with and increases the amount of plaque. This plaque or calculus is visible as a hard yellowish coating on the outer base of the teeth.
Remarkably, pets with this condition rarely eat less. Early in the disease, the plaque is no more than a thin brownish or yellowish coating on the sides of the teeth. It is most noticeable on the outer surface of the larger molar teeth - the side adjacent to the cheeks and lips. In severe cases the margins where teeth and gums meet become highly inflamed and bleed when they are touched.
For reasons we do not understand, these problems are most severe in toy and smaller breed dogs and in purebred cats. Maltese have the highest rate of tooth and gum disease of all breeds.
This buildup of calculus causes the gum margins to recedes past the tooth enamel exposing the softer dentine material that covers the tooth roots. Dentine is much more porous and rougher than enamel and holds infection in place. Once dentine is exposed periodic tooth care must be done more frequently and the teeth are eventually lost. This is why tooth care and good dental hygiene needs to begin early, before these problems are advanced.

Other causes of bad breath.
Immature pets that are in the process of shedding their "baby" teeth often drool and have bad breath. Some times it is accompanied by fever. Brushing the pets' mouths with diluted baking soda solution gives them relief and minimizes the odor.
In older pets, disease of the kidneys and liver often affect the mouth. These pets are often thin and frail. When I suspect that a pet with halitosis (bad breath) has major organ failure I run diagnostic liver enzyme levels as well as blood urea nitrogen and creatinine levels to check kidney function.
Pets with organ damage require extra special care when tending to their teeth. Anesthesia during dental prophylaxis (a measure taken for the prevention of a disease or condition) must be administered lightly and with special care. Often I place these pets on antibiotics after I clean their teeth as well as on special diets engineered to help failing organs.
When young cats have strong breath odor and dental disease, they are screened for feline leukemia as well as feline immunodifficiency disease (feline aids). If they are negative for these diseases, they often have resorptive dental disease in which deep cavities form in many teeth simultaneously for no apparent reason. In resorptive dental disease, the roots of the canine teeth are often exposed. Often incisor teeth in these cats drop out for no apparent reason. It is unclear if these cats are born with soft susceptible teeth or if another undescribed form of dental disease is present. Cleaning the teeth of cats with resorptive dental disease is not very effective. Eventually, these teeth need to be extracted. When this is done these cats go on to lead happy and healthy lives.

Problems associated with tooth and gum disease.
Just as kidney and liver disease can lead to dental disease; dental disease can lead to disease of the kidney and liver.
Tartar accumulation around the teeth allows harmful bacteria to grow. These bacteria occasionally break loose and enter the pets circulation system. Once in the blood stream, they lodge in crevices with the kidneys and liver and on the valves of the heart. Liver inflammation as well as scarred, poorly functioning kidneys are the result of bacteria lodging in these organs. When the heart valves are attacked by bacteria they shrink and scar, causing blood to flow in the wrong direction. This is why it is common for dogs and cats with severe dental disease to have heart murmurs. It is not unusual for these murmurs to go away once the pets dental problems are treated.
Dogs and cats with chronic dental problems often drool. This wetness and the infection associated with tooth infections may cause the lips and the skin folds surrounding the lips to become inflamed. Once the teeth are cleaned these problems go away.
Treatment of Bad Breath

Yearly checkups
Even if you do not give yearly vaccinations, it is wise to take your pet to a veterinarian for an annual checkup that includes a dental exam. The older your pet is the more important early exams become.

Diet
To slow the formation of plaque, feed your pet a quality name brand dry commercial pet food. The crunchy biscuits help massage gums and wear away tartar. Some brands market dental diets engineered to minimize plaque and massage the gums. Other brands incorporate enzymes to dissolve plaque.
One of the worst things you can do for your pets teeth is to feed canned diets. The build up of plaque in pets that are fed soft, canned diets is very rapid.

Treats
Feeding chewy treats, bones, rawhide, nylon bones and treats impregnated with enzymes minimizes dental plaque. Dog biscuits are of no value in preventing tartar buildup.
If you give your pet real bones, be sure they are heavy shin and shank bones.
Dogs and cats do better chewing on bones if they start when they are puppies and kittens.
Never give your pet cooked chicken bones.

Brushing teeth
Brushing your pets teeth is the most important thing you can to maintain healthy teeth and gums. Use a childs toothbrush and meat or malt favored toothpaste that is designed for animals. Use a very small amount of toothpaste - it is the brushing that is important - and concentrate on the gum margins.
If you start when your pet is a puppy or kitten, the pet will not dislike the procedure. Even older pets learn to accept the toothbrush.

Mouth wash and sprays
Veterinary hospitals and pet supply outlets sell chlorhexidine sprays and mouthwashes that contain enzymes that dissolve plaque and help reduce bacteria. They are not nearly as effective as brushing the teeth but are better than no home care.

Manual tartar removal
If your pet has a placid temperament, it is not difficult to scrap the tartar from the teeth and clean under the margins of the gums at home. Many pet professionals perform excellent tooth cleaning at home eliminating the need to have their pet anesthetized at a veterinary clinic. Your veterinarian or a pet supply catalog is a good source for a tartar-scraping tool. The best ones are double ended, one end suitable for the right and the other for the left hand side of the mouth.

Ultrasonic cleaning
Because the whine of the ultrasonic machine is distressing to most animals, this procedure is performed with general anesthetic or heavy tranquilization. Since it is often older patients, many of whom have heart disease that need the procedure, they are kept under very light anesthetic.

Removal of diseased teeth
Once the ligaments that fasten teeth to the bone of the jaw have been damaged by periodontal disease, ultrasonic cleaning will not heal them.
Teeth that are mildly loose, can sometimes be saved by cleaning and several weeks of doxycycline therapy either with oral tablets or oral patches.
Severely loose teeth are best removed.
Dogs and cats do very well with few remaining teeth. Problems are more in the minds of owners due to fear than to any difficulties experienced by the pets.

Tooth restorations
Some veterinarians and dentists specialize in crowns for damaged pet teeth. Other than for attack dogs, this is a purely cosmetic procedure for the owner, not the pet. I suggest you spend the money on your pets in other ways - such as a trips with your pet to the country or the park and contributions to your local Humane Society.

by www.greytinspirations.com

Make Sure Your Dog is Always Safe with Pet Home Rescue!

2007-10-18T19:52:00.000+07:00

What would happen to your dog if you were in an accident and knocked unconscious, and your dog was at home alone?

What would happen if your dog was at home alone and there was a fire? If the firefighters didn't know your dog was inside, the results could be tragic.

Shane Gray, from Vancouver, Canada, has devised an innovative solution to ensure that your dog will be cared for in an emergency.

So how does it work?

Simple! You identify yourself as a pet owner by carrying a wallet-size card or a key tag which give a toll-free number for people to call to activate your Pet Home Rescue Lifeline!

Pet Home Rescue Lifeline operators will then contact the person who you've registered as your dog's guardian, to care for your beloved companion if you've been in an accident.

But how about if your house catches fire while you're at work or out shopping, and you don't know about it yet? The firefighters are there, but how will they know your dog is inside?

Again - simple! You identify your house as a pet home with Pet Home Rescue Lifeline doortags - firefighters will immediately recognize these tags, and can then take steps to rescue your dog from inside the house or yard.

Basic Care and Maintenance for Your Pup's Pearly Whites

2007-10-18T19:50:00.000+07:00

By: Weston Lewis

Many people do not realize the importance of caring for their dog?s teeth. As dogs age, the need for dental care increases. The best way to ensure proper dental health for your dog is to start while they are very young.

Many dogs do not like their mouths touched. It is important for you as a dog owner to desensitize them to being handled like this at a very young age. The veterinarian is always going to need to examine your dog?s mouth and you do not want to have problems with this. The best way for you to get your dog used to having his mouth touched is to begin touching it when you first get your pup. Make sure to touch the lips, open the mouth, and touch the teeth in a calm and relaxing way for about five minutes each day until your pup is used to being handled in this way. Make this a regular part of your interaction with your dog so he remains calm when you are doing any kind of preventive dental care.

Most veterinarians recommend brushing your dog?s teeth daily. Many manufacturers make special toothpaste and brushes for dogs. You do not ever want to use human toothpaste on dogs as it may be harmful to them. To get your dog used to having his teeth brushed, you may want to start by putting a dab of dog toothpaste on a cotton ball and rubbing it over his teeth. Toothpaste for dogs is usually quite tasty to them, so he shouldn?t mind this. You can then try a finger brush, available at your veterinarian?s office or pet supply store. Eventually, especially for larger breeds, you will want to graduate to a regular dog toothbrush. Regular brushing will help prevent the buildup of calculus and debris on your dog?s teeth.

Another way to help prevent calculus and buildup on your dog?s teeth is by using rawhide chews specially formulated for dental care. Many companies manufacture these chews. One of the best available is by C.E.T. Most veterinarians carry C.E.T. dental health products. C.E.T. chews are formulated with an enzyme that helps keep plaque from forming and prevents the buildup of bacteria. Also, the natural abrasion of rawhide chews helps keep teeth healthy. C.E.T. also makes a chew that contains chlorhexadine which has antimicrobial properties.

Some companies also make special dental health food, which may be recommended to you by your veterinarian to help prevent dental problems.

Even with proper preventive measures, most dogs will eventually need a dental cleaning from your veterinarian. If your veterinarian recommends a dental cleaning, it is important that you follow through. If your dog develops dental disease, harmful bacteria can pass through into the bloodstream causing potentially serious problems such as kidney infections and infections involving the heart valves.

A dental cleaning performed by your veterinarian is much like a human dental cleaning, however your dog will need to be sedated. The anesthesia is light and with today?s technology is extremely safe. Many veterinarians have anesthesia monitoring systems just like those used in human medicine. A thorough exam will be performed to determine if any teeth need to be pulled or repaired. Some veterinarians will do x-rays of the teeth to find any cracks or diseased teeth. After this, a trained member of the veterinary staff will perform a dental cleaning. First, they will scale the teeth to remove the tartar above and below the gum line. This will be done with both hand instruments and ultrasonic scaling equipment. After this, the teeth will be polished, which will make them smooth and help prevent plaque from adhering to them. Most veterinarians will also do a fluoride treatment. This is to help strengthen the enamel and prevent plaque from forming. If any teeth are diseased or broken, your veterinarian may pull them. Some veterinarians who specialize in dental care will perform root canals and other intensive dental work. Most veterinarians will put your dog on a treatment of antibiotics to help prevent bacterial infection.

It is very important to take good care of your dog?s teeth to keep them healthy and to prevent infections. Always follow your veterinarian?s advice and if you have further questions, consult your veterinary staff or pet professional.

Weston Lewis has been a dog trainer for the past twenty years. After running his own kennel for most of his adult life, he is now retired and sharing his knowledge on the Internet.
Visit this site for more information: Dog Training Clinic

Article Source Dog News Center and Article Directory http://www.dognewscenter.com

Herbs For Your Dog

2007-10-18T19:45:00.000+07:00

By: pedigreedpups.com

Herbology, basically, is the use of herbs in the treatment of many types of illness. Herein the emphasis of treatment is based strongly on the specific use of herbal roots, flowers and leaves to stimulate the healing process. Keep in mind that these herbs are not a form of drug (as in man-made forms, such as aspirin) but are strictly natural in content.

Practiced for centuries, herbology is probably one of the most primitive and fundamental uses of specific remedies to treat various illnesses, known today.

How, though, does the knowledge of herbal alternatives tie in with owning an animal? Think about it for a moment. What do wild animals, or even your pets, typically do when they are not feeling up to par? Most instinctively seek out appropriate herbs in the form of grasses when they are sick. How many times have you witnessed your dog eating grasses?

Many man-made drugs are simply compounds based upon active principles found in many herbs. One simple example could be caffeine found in coffee. Herbalists differ from most traditional medicinal methods at this point however. Herbalists believe in the use of the entire substance - not in simply the use of one part. They believe the whole is much greater than the sum of one or more parts.

Basically, herbs work much slower than traditional medicines (t.m.’s) though they do many things t.m.’s don’t- such as detoxify the body, stimulate movement of the bowels or urination, and add vitamins and minerals to the patients system which are already greatly needed.

Herbal remedies have also been used to treat animals over the centuries for such illnesses as arthritis, worms, diarrhea/constipation, diabetes, epilepsy, mange and cataracts, among others. Juliette de Bairacli-Levy is an author who emphasizes the use of herbs in the treatment of many ailments in connection with pets. She also emphasizes the importance of freshly gathered herbs, natural diet and fasting.

Probably the biggest drawback to herbal therapy would be the amount which must be administered, the very frequent intervals of administration and the extended periods of time over which administration must occur.

Additionally, many herbs do not taste good in their natural state and must be disguised in food. Still, if you are willing to carry out a complete program, administering “medications” at their proper intervals, herbal alternatives are very effective in treating and curing many types of ailments. For more information concerning herbs and their uses, contact your nearest herbalist or herbal store.

Article written and reprinted with permission of:

http://www.pedigreedpups.com/

Purebred Dogs, Puppies and Dog Breeders - "Your New Best Friend"

History of Bischon Frise

2007-10-18T19:43:00.000+07:00

History of Bischon Frise
By Kevin Gawricki

The Bischon is descended from the Barbet or Water Spaniel. The Bichons were divided into four categories: Bichon Maltais, Bichon Bolognais, Bichon Havanais, and Bichon Teneriffe. Which all originated in the Mediterranean.

Because of their happy disposition, they traveled often, and where used as items of barter by sailors. Generally believed that Spanish seamen introduced the breed to Canary Island of Teneriffe. In the 1300’s Italian sailors returned them to the continent, where they became favorites of Italian nobility.

Their popularity skyrocketed in the court of Henry III(1574-89). Also they where a favorite of the Infantas in Spain. The famous artist, Goya, included a Bichon in several of his works.

In the 1800’s the Bischon became a “common dog”, running the streets, accompanying the organ grinders of Barbary, leading the blind and doing tricks in circuses and fairs.

In March 5th, 1933 the official standard of the breed was adopted by the Societe Centrale Canine of France. The President of the International Canine Federation proposed the name Bichon Frise. On Oct 18th, 1934 was admitted to the stud book of the French Kennel Club.

In 1956 first Bischon litter was whelped in the US. In 1959 and 1960 two breeders in US acquired Bichon and they became breeds origin in US.

Entered in Miscellaneous Class on Sept 1st, 1971. Oct 1972 breed was admitted to registration in the American Kennel Club Stud Book. April 4th, 1973 breed became eligible to show in the Non-Sporting Group at AKC dog shows.

Kevin is owner of Dog Gone Good Stuff which he founded because of the need for a place that caters specifically to dogs and their owners specific needs. Please feel free to visit Dog Gone Good Stuff for all your dogs needs. Web address www.doggonegoodstuff.com

By: Kevin Gawricki

Ten of the Most Popular Dog Breeds for Children

2007-10-18T19:41:00.000+07:00

By: Weston Lewis

In choosing a dog for the family, it?s a good idea we keep the children in mind. Some dogs are not tolerant of children and can be a threat to them. There are many breeds of dogs out there to choose from. Do your homework to see which one works the best with your family and especially your children.

By far the number one best dog breed for children hands down, would have to be, you guessed it, Labrador Retriever. This dog is well accepted because of its good nature. It is not generally aggressive or hyper. It is playful, easy-going, intelligent and patient. No wonder it is loved by the young and old. Because of its mild manner, it is first choice in working with the handicapped. It is has desire to please as if it knows its plight. The Lab is also a great pick if you have other animals. They are very accommodating. A well taken care of Lab can live up to 13 years. In order to reduce boredom in these dogs, they should be kept active. These dogs love playing in the yard or taking walks.

Number two on the list is the Golden Retriever. They are similar to the Lab in their personality. They are also mild mannered, kind and they enjoy being around people. They too are a top pick for working with the handicapped as well as the elderly. They too get along with other pets. These dogs are intelligent creatures to train. Playing fetch is a favorite game for them. Because of their playful nature, this breed of dog would be great for an older child who enjoys the outdoors. Regular grooming is required because of their long hair.

The next pick is the Beagle. Even though they have a baying bark, they are not aggressive dogs. What their barking does say about them is they make great watch dogs. These dogs have a friendly demeanor about them. Their tails seem to be in an unending wagging motion. Because friendliness comes natural with them, they do not like being left alone. They become bored when left by themselves for too long. They are great picks for smaller children because of their size.

Another great pick for children is the Basset Hound. They are generally docile, yet they?re known for their stubbornness. They are also known for their gentleness and are quite sweet by nature. They?re great with children of all ages and enjoy attention from them.

The German shepherd is another pick. Again, these are probably best for older children who enjoy playing outdoors. Because of their size and strength, they are probably not suitable for younger children. German Shepherds are known for their loyalty. Police often use this type of dog for search and rescue missions. They are protective by nature and are quite tolerant. It?s best to start training these dogs as pups. Without training, they can be a handful.

The black and white spotted Dalmatian is associated with fire trucks. But for a family, a Dalmatian would be a trusted friend. They are very outgoing dogs with lots of energy to spare. This dog needs companionship from humans.

The Bearded Collie is another great pick. These are active dogs and would do best outdoors. They like to have open space to run, so being confined to an apartment would not suit these dogs.

Then there?s the American Cocker Spaniel. They are sensitive and sweet dogs. They are generally obedient to their master and enjoy the attention of children. They are definitely a people friendly dog.

The Bearded Collie is known for its bounce. This dog is very playful and happy. They like to be around people and will not hide their excitement of being around you. Female Collie?s tend to be calmer, while males are more rambunctious.

Cockapoos not only are good around children, but they get on with other pets as well. They do not need a lot of space. Apartment life is OK with them.

In choosing the right dog for your family, always remember that there are always exceptions to the rules. Each dog is an individual, and why for the most part certain breeds are more children friendly, you should always be cautious with your child around unknown dogs.

Weston Lewis has been a dog trainer for the past twenty years. After running his own kennel for most of his adult life, he is now retired and sharing his knowledge on the Internet.
Visit this site for more information: Dog Training Clinic

What to Expect When Your Dog is Expecting

2007-10-18T19:39:00.000+07:00

By: Weston Lewis

Are you getting ready for your dog to have puppies? Having a litter of pups sounds like a lot of fun, but there is much work involved. Here are some tips on how to get your dog and you ready for birth.

The first thing to know is that your dog will be pregnant on average for 63 days. This is not very much time so make sure you are ready.

You will want to make sure that you are feeding your pregnant dog appropriately. Your dog will need to eat more than usual and you may want to transition to a growth type food or puppy food during the pregnancy. You should do this by decreasing the amount of regular food you give your dog each day while increasing the amount of new food. It?s best if you do this over the course of about a week to help prevent loose stool. Check with your veterinarian to see what is appropriate for diet. Make sure to feed your dog a high quality diet. You do not need to supplement the diet with vitamins unless it is recommended by your veterinarian. Always follow their recommendations. Your dog may experience symptoms similar to human morning sickness around the third week of pregnancy. If this lasts longer than one week, take your dog to the veterinarian to see if there are any underlying problems.

You will want to continue regular walks with your dog during the pregnancy. It is important to get some exercise, but if you have a working dog or do sports with your dog, you will want to discontinue these until after the puppies are weaned. However, three weeks prior to delivery, you will want to isolate your pregnant dog from all other dogs. This must continue until at the very least, three weeks after the puppies are born. There are infectious diseases carried by unvaccinated dogs that may not be very harmful to adult dogs but can be fatal to puppies.

If your dog is due for vaccination during the pregnancy, hold off on this until after the puppies are weaned. Vaccination during pregnancy can be harmful to the fetuses. Ideally, you will want to have your dog vaccinated just prior to breeding.

When getting ready to deliver, make sure to provide a comfortable place for whelping and raising the puppies. It should be somewhere where your dog can come and go, but the puppies are confined to.

When it is time to deliver, your dog?s body temperature will drop slightly. You can monitor this with a rectal thermometer. Normal canine temperature is between 100-102 degrees. When it drops below 100 degrees, you can usually expect labor in 24 hours. When your dog starts to go into labor, she will become restless and may pant, shiver, or vomit. This is normal. Make sure to provide fresh water to her at all times. This stage of labor may last up to 12 hours. When she begins to deliver the pups, they will be covered with a thin membrane which must be cleared away. The mother should do this herself, but should she neglect to do this, you will need to clear it away or the pup will suffocate. You will need to tie the umbilical cords in a knot and cut them above the knot. Pups will come about one per hour with up to half an hour of straining in between deliveries. It is not unusual for your dog to take a break of a few hours during delivery.

You will need to call your veterinarian if your dog does not deliver within one day of her temperature drop, she is straining to deliver for more than an hour, takes more than a four hour break between pups, seems to be in great pain, or has been pregnant for more than 70 days. Some breeds require cesarean sections so make sure to discuss this with your doctor prior to delivery. If you feel that anything else unusual is occurring, contact your veterinarian immediately.

It is always important to discuss all of your concerns and what to expect with your veterinarian prior to delivery.

Weston Lewis has been a dog trainer for the past twenty years. After running his own kennel for most of his adult life, he is now retired and sharing his knowledge on the Internet.
Visit this site for more information: Dog Training Clinic

Pet Insurance: Yes, It Really Exists

2007-10-18T19:37:00.000+07:00

By: Weston Lewis

Although pet insurance has been available for approximately 20 years, many pet owners have never heard of it and are surprised that such a thing would even exist. After all, insurance is for people, right? Well, if you have ever had to empty your savings account in order to pay for a pet?s surgery or if you have ever had to put a beloved pet to sleep because you couldn?t afford medical care, then you can absolutely testify to the usefulness and worth of pet insurance.

As is the case with most other health-related expenses, the costs associated with an average pet?s medical care - preventative, emergency and catastrophic ? are rising all the time. If you have multiple pets, the cost of even the most basic care can be financially crippling. When deciding whether or not to buy a health insurance policy for your pet, you have to ask yourself a few questions. Do you consider your pet to be a member of the family? Would you be unable to pay for (potentially) thousands of dollars in medical bills if your pet develops cancer or needs long-term medical care? Would it absolutely break your family?s heart to have to euthanize your pet because you didn?t plan ahead for potential health crises? If you answered ?yes? to any of these questions, then you?ll want to seriously consider purchasing an insurance policy for your pet.

What Kind of Pet Insurance Is Available?

Pet insurance is now available through a multitude of specialty companies; and, just as with your average health insurance plan, the higher the premium, the greater the range of benefits you and your pet receive. The average plan costs anywhere from $20 - $40 per month and has either no annual benefit limit at all or a limit of approximately $15,000 - $20,000. Many plans offer discounts for coverage of multiple pets. Your deductible will be determined by the plan you choose, but the average is approximately $100 per year.

Since the majority of the medical expenses generated by a pet are related to routine procedures, look for a plan that covers vaccinations, neutering and spaying, annual check-ups and dental care. You want your pet to be protected in case he develops a serious illness or injury, but these lower-budget procedures can also put a big dent in your bank account. Make sure you?re pet is covered!

What Sort of Restrictions Are There?

You may be willing to pay for your pet?s health insurance, but that doesn?t mean an insurance company will automatically cover him. If your pet is over a certain age, he may be denied coverage. Even if you find insurance for your pet, there are always certain coverage limits and restrictions. Most policies won?t cover the treatment of pre-existing conditions or genetic defects. Sometimes cancer is also excluded from coverage (although many companies will add cancer care to the coverage for an additional cost).

Be aware of any waiting periods that are written into your pet?s policy. The waiting period will determine when your pet?s coverage actually begins ? waiting periods can last anywhere from two weeks to six months. Once your plan takes effect, you may have to choose a veterinarian from a list of approved providers.

What Are the Alternatives to Pet Insurance?

If your pet does not qualify for insurance or if you simply choose not to buy a policy, there are a few money-saving options you can try. One example is a pet health care discount program (i.e. Pet Assure). When you join the program, you receive a discount (up to 25%) on your pet?s medical care as long as you patronize participating veterinarians. Other benefits, such as prescription discounts and access to product coupons, are also included in the membership fee.

If your uninsured dog needs emergency medical care and you have no funds available, ask your vet if their clinic offers any sort of emergency funding. Sometimes veterinarians will set aside funds for pets whose owners cannot afford care, especially if the treatment does not involve long-term care and multiple visits. If there are no such funds set aside, you may be able to finance the fees. A final option (and definitely a long-shot) is the humane society or non-profit pet support group that offers financial aid. You have to apply for their limited funds and few applicants actually receive enough money to pay the totality of their pet?s medical bills. Insurance is really the only way to make sure that your pet can receive costly medical care if he needs it.

Weston Lewis has been a dog trainer for the past twenty years. After running his own kennel for most of his adult life, he is now retired and sharing his knowledge on the Internet.
Visit this site for more information:
Dog Training Clinic

Looking After Your Dog, Part Six - Dog Health Insurance

2007-10-18T19:30:00.000+07:00

By: Niall Kennedy

Pet health insurance is not a novel idea by any means. The concept has been around for 15-20 years. Many people believe that having medical insurance for a pet is not justified, and is rather something that depicts indulgence. However, the truth is that pet health insurance has nothing to do with being lavish. It purely depends on how much you care for your pet. It is the question of whether you consider your pet a part of your family, and therefore, would want to have it insured.

Pet health insurance plans take several aspects into consideration before awarding an insurance cover. The decision may be based on several considerations - species, age, pre-existing health conditions and lifestyle of the pet (i.e. a docile one compared to one of a sports dog). A few of the pet insurance companies don’t have an age limit. However, it’s easier to get pet health insurance if your pet isn’t too old. Therefore, insurance schemes typically start off at an early age of around 6 weeks for a dog.

The decision to have pet health insurance also depends a lot on your pet’s current health. If, God forbid, your canine is suffering from a fatal ailment, then there is no point having him insured. Moreover, getting insurance in such a case is all the more difficult to say the least. Pet health insurance costs vary widely owing much to the broad variety of insurance packages available. Comprehensive pet health insurance schemes cover the costs of annual checkups, vaccinations, routine care and preventive medications, and spay/neuter surgeries. Partial plans only cover accident and illness costs.

Insurance schemes are not for everyone. It might be the case that your dog’s current health condition does not satisfy the requirements of the insurance company. But you should not be disheartened in such a scenario. Some medical facilities offer pet wellness packages, which allow you to avail vaccinations and pet health checkups at discounted prices. You could go ahead for one such scheme.

Best Pet Health Information is a resource that brings you information about many aspects of dog health insurance. http://www.Best-Pet-Health.info.
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And How Does Your Garden Grow?

2007-10-18T19:23:00.000+07:00

Toxic Time Bombs on The Home Front
by Sandra Hickman, Author & Editor of Canine Health Newsletter

The following article was reprinted from the February/March 1997 issue of Canine Health Newsletter by permission of the author. All rights reserved. No part of this article shall be reprinted without the express permission of Cyberpet.

The flowering currants are in bloom, signalling the arrival of our hummingbird family and Spring is here, even though the weather outside may say otherwise. Time to turn our thoughts to the garden and what goes into it.

The average homeowner probably doesn't know what is in those neatly packaged products all designed to keep the turf and garden weed and pest free! What does this have to do with canine health you may ask? Plenty! I decided to take a tour of my local garden shop and look at pest control products. What a plethora of products, one whole wall was lined with all manner of slug baits, aphid and weed control products; all for homeowner use! Having been a landscape designer and landscaper for many years, and holding a pesticide license, I learned the hard way what is in them.

PESTICIDES

Pesticides are big business.. to the tune of $30 billion dollars! For home use they are divided into Insecticides, Herbicides and Fungicides.

So you want to get rid of all those dandelions plaguing your lawn and sidewalk! You have a wide choice of products: Killex, made by Green Cross is a product that jumped out at me.. contains 2-4-D, Mecoprop and Dicamba. Weed Stop, another product manufactured by Laters that contains similar ingredients plus Trifluratin. Other products containing 2-4-D are Aqua-Kleen, Cloroxone, Dacamine, Estasol, Esteron, Esteron 64, Formula 40, Herbate 2,4,D, Hoe-Grass, Ten-Ten, Verton, and Weedar. Weedex, Weed-B-Gone, and Weedone also contain Fenoprop.

2-4-D was a major component (50%) of the product Agent Orange, manufactured by Monsanto, which was used extensively throughout Vietnam as a defoliant. Dogs that were given low doses of 2-4-D in their food for 2 years died. Toxicologists say that dogs probably do not excrete Organic acids efficiently! Low doses fed to rats over two years caused an increase in malignant tumors. Female mice given a single injection of 2-4-D developed cancer (reticulum-cell sarcomas). An increased occurrence of non-Hodgkin's lymphoma was found among a Kansas and Nebraska farm population associated with the spraying of 2-4-D. All the above products are reputed to be hormone disruptors; in other words causing birth defects, reproduction problems and endocrine disrupting effects.

A product named Weed Rite contains paraquat and diquat and 2-4-D. Paraquat is a deadly chemical; there is no antidote to this poison.. ingest a little and you're history! Most of these come in very handy spray bottles, conveniently mixed, for a little squirt here and a little squirt there.

Monsanto's specialty is Roundup which is supposed to be a broad spectrum herbicide, that doesn't linger in the soil, it contains glyphosate. Sidekick is another name for it. This is the herbicide that Monsanto has developed all those genetically engineered foods for. The seeds of these special plants have developed a resistance to Roundup, which in essence means more Roundup being sprayed on food crops. Roundup has been found to be the third most commonly reported cause of pesticide poisoning among farm workers.

MCPA is another herbicide, similar to 2-4-D which is a Phenoxyacetic Compound or (hormone) compound, which is formulated as esters; this little gem is used to kill creeping buttercup, chickweed, clover and thistle.

Then we have Casoron, a granular powder. After weeding in the fall or late winter, this is applied to the soil to prevent weeds and seeds from taking off in the spring. The chemical name is dichlobenil, and it is known as a benzonitrile compound. I saw this under the name of Webfoot!

Want to get rid of those pesky aphids? We have a product called Malathion, in which several studies have documented developmental and reproductive defects in test animals, producing detectable mutations in three different types of cultured human cells, including white blood cells and lymph cells. It has been shown to affect both the adrenal glands and the liver of rats, and has effects on blood clotting time. Malathion is also suspected of being carcinogenic.

We also have Carbaryl or Sevin for cutworms and sow bugs and over 100 species of insects. Carbaryl is considered moderate to very toxic to humans. Inhaling the fumes can range from symptoms of nausea to convulsions. Ingestion of carbaryl affects the lungs, kidneys and liver.

Organophosphates, carbamates and chlorinated derivates of nicotine work against pests by interfering with, or inhibiting cholinesterase. What is cholinesterase? Cholinesterase is an enzyme needed for the proper functioning of the nervous systems of humans, other vertebrates and insects. Exposure to cholinesterase inhibiting chemicals can result from inhalation, ingestion, eye or skin contact from manufacture or mixing and application of these pesticides.

Electrical switching centers, called synapses are found throughout the nervous system. Muscles, glands and nerve fibres called neurons are stimulated by the constant firing of signals across these synapses. Stimulating signals are usually carried by a chemical called acetylcholine. Stimulating signals are discontinued by a specific type of cholinesterase enzyme, acetylcholinesterase, which breaks down the acetylcholine. These important chemical reactions are usually going on all the time at a very fast rate, with acetylcholine causing stimulation and acetylcholinesterase ending the signal. (Phew, I hope I didn't lose you!) If cholinesterase-affecting insecticides are present in the synapses, however, this situation is thrown out of balance. Thus when a body receives too great an exposure to cholinesterase inhibiting compounds, the body is unable to break down the acetylcholine.

Electrical impulses can fire away continuously unless the number of messages being sent through the synapse is limited by the action of cholinesterase. Repeated and unchecked firing of electrical signals can cause uncontrolled rapid twitching of some muscles, paralysed breathing, convulsions and in extreme cases, death.

There now is considerable evidence that widely used pesticides suppress immune responses to bacteria, viruses, parasites and tumors making people and animals more vulnerable to disease. Most pesticides on the market have never been adequately tested in laboratories for immunotoxic effects. Pesticides reduce the number of white blood cells and disease fighting lymphocytes and impair their ability to respond to and kill viruses.

They alter the development of the thymus and spleen, which are key immune organs.

Let's not forget about that new wood deck you've just built, if the wood has been pressure treated, chances are it's been preserved with the chemical Pentachlorophenal, aka as PBB's. PBB's are right up there with Dioxins, Furans and PCB's and known as Persistent Organohalogens, hormone disrupters and are extremely toxic. Think about that as you and your 4-legged pets lounge around absorbing all those toxins through your skin!

Do you really need these toxic time bombs in your garden? Think about how often your pets and children play on lawns or run through your garden, bringing these chemicals into your home. Animals lick their feet ingesting these poisons, rubbing against sprayed leaves or bushes can lead to ingestion through the skin. Just breathing this stuff can cause problems; I know, because I was the victim of pesticide poisoning having had to use it for commercial landscape jobs. I vowed, never again would I ever handle pesticides of any type and just being in that garden centre for 15 minutes made me feel nauseous and dizzy.

Every Dog Has His Day

2007-10-18T19:21:00.000+07:00

by Dr. Alvin Grossman Publisher of Doral Publications

Being involved with dogs and the dog show game, you need to appreciate that dogs are under a great deal of stress. It is an intense experience for them and they burn a lot of calories during a show. Being confined to a crate most of the day riding from one strange place to another and being separated from their owners are very hard on dogs.
Because they can't speak out and tell you their problems, you need to observe their behavior and performance. A recent article in the Portland Oregonian newspaper on pet stress points out that "recent technical advances reveal that pets can face the same health risks as people, such as hypertension." You and your dogs share the same risks that stress presents.

Some dogs handle all of this with aplomb. Others react with varying symptoms, often failing to respond to their handlers wishes. I know many a handler who has come out of the ring cursing the handful he had to contend with that go-around.

Most animals are happiest when they have a standard routine. They get let out to their runs at a certain time; they get fed at a certain time, and in the same place. Kennel and home surroundings are constant. They gain confidence by this routine. They know what and when to expect things to happen. In effect, they are in control. Now you take that same well-adjusted dog to a handler. First off, he is in a strange environment. He is not sure where he is supposed to go or what he is supposed to do. His feeding schedule and often his food are different. He enters into a training program that is foreign to him. He eventually gains confidence in his handler, but things are not the same.

Just as he gets used to this routine, he is tucked into a crate, put in some kind of vehicle, and then driven many miles away. He gets hauled out into unfamiliar surroundings again and has to perform in a strange setting. (Happily, most of the time he can do it.) Then, once again, he's tucked into his crate and is off to another show on the circuit. The handler can't pay much attention because he has a full string of dogs entered. So, the dog gets a quick brush out, a cluck under the chin and he is expected to do his thing to perfection.

Is it any wonder that sometimes these great dogs "go off their feed?" They can handle only so much stress and then there is a breaking point. This point, like the ones for humans, differs with the individual dog. He may react in a number of ways: Hanging back on the lead, not wanting to go into the ring, not responding to the handler.

In addition to these psychological reactions, a dog may exhibit physical symptoms that can include a dull coat, dropping coat, pulling back on the lead as though he was suffering from tonsillitis, but the vet doesn't see any inflammation; whimpering when touched in certain places, but there is no evidence of bruises or wounds. These symptoms are reactions to situations a dog cannot handle. He wants to withdraw and unconsciously chooses the route that works best for him.

A few years ago one of the top contenders for top winning dog of the year went "sour". There was much rumor and innuendo about how his handler may have abused him and the poor handler took the brunt of such criticism. The dog had been well treated and was never subjected to abuse. He just reached his burnout point and would not respond. He did not and would not be a show dog anymore. It was too stressful for him.

Dogs do become truly ill while being shown, but that is another matter and can be dealt with by a vet.

To the stress the dog is experiencing, add the handlers disposition and mental and physical health, and you can understand why odd things can happen on any given day.

We all recognize that good temperament is essential in any breed. This means that the dog has to come from parents and grandparents who exhibited these qualities. Today, a big thing is made of behavioral testing to see which puppies in a litter can react to strange and challenging situations and not panic or attack.

There has grown up a whole body of literature on the subject. One of the best sources is a series of articles written by Dr. Ian Dunbar for the AKC Gazette in 1990. In one article he points out:

"The quality of a dog's behavior, temperament and training varies inversely with the number of dogs in the household. Most dog fanciers start with a single dog which is both a pet and show dog. Additional dogs are acquired along the way and, at some point, many breeders opt for outdoor kennels to accomodate their growing dog population.

"Kennel dogs receive less human attention and affection than household pets. Most breeders are women, and less than 40 percent of breeders have children living at home. This means many puppies and adult dogs sold as pets have seldom met children or men (the two most common stimuli for fearfulness and aggression), are seldom exposed to the confusing commotion and cacophony of an ever changing domestic environment and are less likely to be walked regularly, where they would meet a wide variety of human strangers as well as other dogs and animals in different urban and rural settings."

It is easy to see that the dog you purchased as your show dog may have come from just such an environment. Not that he hasn't been raised well and shows some equilibrium, but he may not be ready or able to handle the new world you have thrust him into.

While a dogs basic personality is set at an early age, you can still help your dog and yourself by building on the foundation you have. Take your dog with you on walks, take him to the mall (if he's allowed there), take him to outdoor shopping centers, and take him on short rides while in his crate that don't end up at the vet's or the boarding kennel.

Reassure him at all times when he comes across a strange situation and is not sure how to react. Be positive and don't drag him into frightening situations telling him he is a crybaby and should be bold and aggressive. Buddy, if you do that, I can guarantee a problem dog, (then you have to read the new book POOCHES & SMALL FRY from Doral Publishing to solve your problems).

Go with your handler to the dog's first shows. Let him know that you are there and pet him a lot. Slowly, he will make the transfer to his handler and you will probably become jealous because the dog seems to prefer this person to you.

Keep your expectations reasonable. If this is your first dog, the breeder probably did not sell you a Best In Show specimen. You may more likely have a finishable dog. Having him finish his championship is surely better than a sharp stick in the eye, so show him, enjoy him, and most of all, love him!

ADDING A NEW ANIMAL TO THE HOUSEHOLD...(Part 3)

2007-10-18T18:09:00.000+07:00

by Diana Guerrero

Integrating an animal is important when you have an established household with other animals. There are specific things you should consider BEFORE you attempt to do this (Read Part 1: Considerations, Part 2: Integration of Same Species DOG OR CAT).
BRIEF REVIEW OF PART TWO:
The main concerns about bringing another animal into the home are: Can you really handle a new animal? and How will your animals will react to the newcomer? These questions require some thought and will give you some good ideas as to what to expect. Depending on what type of animal household you have, and what type of pet you are bringing in, will determine how you can best handle things.

One good way to evaluate how your existing pets might react, is to look at the interactions they have with others. Are they good with human visitors? How about animal visitors? Do they have friends that they visit and play with? Do other animals come over to visit them at your house? The more positive interactions your animals have the more likely they will react positively to a new addition to the home.

If your animals react fearfully to new situations, people or things, or have not gotten on well with other animals, then the chances are the integration with a new animal will be difficult. Also, you will need to familiarize yourself with how to properly handle any flare-ups should they occur. If you have an older more dominant animal and you interfere with the introduction in the wrong way, you can actually escalate the aggression and make it worse. Remember, it is their home and their territory and you have brought in a stranger....at least tell them you are going to do it and give them praise for tolerating the newcomer. How would you feel if your significant other or spouse brought home a stranger to live with you without telling you? Would you be gracious about it?

Let's look at a couple of situations with different species and then get into examples of behavior and strategies of dealing with the animals successfully.

MIXED SPECIES: DOGS & CATS!
This is a whole new bag of tricks! Can you really mix dogs and cats? YES! It takes understanding, persistence and attention to details. Here is a quick list of the keys to successful introductions with animals. (Read the details in PART 2: DOGS & CATS) Since they were already discussed let's get into some specific concerns!

TEN KEYS TO SUCCESSFUL INTRODUCTIONS

1. HAVE A NEUTRAL TERRITORY FOR INTRODUCTIONS
2. CONTROL & SUPERVISE INTRODUCTIONS
3. AGE DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE
4. WATCH YOUR REACTIONS!
5. BE ALERT TO NATURAL BEHAVIOR RULES
6. GRADUALLY INCREASE INTERACTIONS
7. TIME FACTOR FOR INTEGRATION
8. ALLOW FOR ADAPTATION
9. CHOOSE A BENEFICIAL TIME PERIOD FOR THE INTRODUCTION
10. HAVE REALISTIC EXPECTATIONS & GET HELP IF YOU NEED IT!

The easiest way to describe introductions and the challenges you will face with mixing species is to list them by topic. The biggest thing you can do to be successful is to PRE-PLAN how you will do things and what the approach will be if some type of overt aggression begins.

Pre-planning means to take enough time in the introductions to insure success. You should never force the animals to do something they are not ready for. It will take as long as it will take. Sometimes this will be a few days, sometimes weeks, sometimes months! By forcing things or by not planning how you will do the introductions, you can ruin the chances of a good working relationship between your animals. BE PATIENT!

Handling aggression should be done BEFORE it escalates into action. If you watch your animals ears, eyes, tails, body posture and body tension, you will be able to tell serious threats from display. If you have any doubts, then separate them and take no risks.

Two ways of handling escalating problems are to use something called "distraction" or a barrier or confinement. Since descriptions would be too complicated in this article, these topics will be handled in another section devoted to proper reprimands and rewards.

BEHAVIOR ON INTRODUCTION

DOGS
Typical reactions are to chase, bark, paw or drool! Make sure you are careful and have a leash or some other form of restraint when introducing a new cat. Basic control learned in training classes, such as a "down, stay" can be an asset here.

CATS
Typical responses will be to attack, stalk, ambush, glare and make lots of horrible noises and contortions to communicate their displeasure. Some will just run off and hide. AREAS OF CAUTION

FEEDING AREAS & BOWLS
TERRITORIAL BEHAVIOR
MARKING OR TOILETING
SOCIAL TIME
SLEEPING ARRANGEMENTS
SCRATCH POST & TOYS
COMPETITION
FEEDING AREAS & BOWLS

Dogs who are solitary, or who have not been trained about food bowl etiquette, can be possessive or aggressive to other animals or their owners over food. If you suspect this may be the case you will want to make sure the food and water bowls for the dog are kept in a place where a wondering kitten or cat will not stumble into danger.
Cats should have their own food bowls that are kept up high out of reach or in a separate room or closet with a cat door or limited access. This is usually a beneficial idea since dogs will often gorge on accessible cat food. Yummmm!

TERRITORIAL BEHAVIOR
Dogs or cats will sometimes mark with urine but this is more of a situation found when introducing other new animals of the same species. There is an encroachment on their territory with new animals and you may see different types of activity in toileting habits, sleeping areas, or attention grabbing.

MARKING OR TOILETING
Dogs should have a clearly defined toileting area that is kept clean. Most house dogs will not have problems with this. If you walk your dog and add another pooch, give them each some individual time. Make sure you take out the dominant dog or established dog out first. You can tandem walk with friend and take both animals and then switch off. If you don't regularly walk your dog, this is a good strategy to create a positive link to the new pet!

Cats will usually want their own litterbox. Since many dogs like to indulge in "Almond Roca" it is a good idea to have the box isolated. Many households will use a laundry room or a bathroom cabinet or spare closet for a kitty room. Cat doors or special rigging can create a safe haven for them.

SOCIAL TIME
Pets should also have their regular routine for feeding and walking or playing when a new animal arrives. It is best to let animals have their individual attention always! Until things are more firmly integrated this is especially important.

SLEEPING ARRANGEMENTS
Sleeping arrangements need to be clearly defined, it is actually better that each pet have their own bed to avoid conflict and create harmony. Crates or individual rooms can be used to separate animals while they are first being introduced.

SCRATCH POST & TOYS
Initially more scratch posts or cardboard scratchboxes would be a good idea since most cats will claw to mark territory. Place these near where the new animal is being kept, fed, and favorite areas of your feline friends. Toys and toy boxes may also need to be in a couple of places while integration takes place. If dogs or cats get possessive, keep the items they get possessive over stored away and monitor their use closely.

COMPETITION
This is where everyone is fighting for your attention, or pushing in while you are interacting with another pet. This behavior is not acceptable and should not be rewarded with attention or play. Group behavior and interactions will be much better if you give each pet their own time and do not allow the others to interfere. Group interactions are okay if you instigate them and they don't get out of hand.

OTHER There are many other tidbits and points they are not included here because of the detail involved. Remember to not leave the animals alone unattended until they are fully integrated. It is always better to be more cautious than not. When in doubt always consult with a professional. Just remember that you can have a happy multi-animal household it just takes understanding, patience, persistence, and planning!

ADDING A NEW ANIMAL TO THE HOUSEHOLD...(Part 2)

2007-10-18T18:07:00.000+07:00

by Diana Guerrero

Integrating an animal is important when you have an established household with other animals. There are specific things you should consider BEFORE you attempt to do this (Read Part 1: Considerations). The main concerns are: Can you really handle a new animal? and How will your animals react to the newcomer? These questions require some thought and will give you some good ideas as to what to expect. Depending on what type of animal household you have, and what type of pet you are bringing in, will determine how you handle things.
One good way to evaluate how your existing pets might react is to look at the interactions they have with others. Are they good with human visitors? How about animal visitors? Do they have friends that they visit and play with? Do other animals come over to visit them at your house? The more positive interactions your animals have the more likely they will react positively to a new addition to the home.

If your animals react fearfully to new situations, people or things, then the chances are the integration with a new animal will be difficult. Also, you will need to familiarize yourself with how to properly handle any flare-ups should they occur. If you have an older more dominant animal and you interfere with the introduction in the wrong way, you can actually escalate the aggression and make it worse. Remember, it is their home and their territory and you have brought in a stranger....at least tell them you are going to do it and give them praise for tolerating the newcomer. How would you feel if your significant other or spouse brought home a stranger to live with you without telling you? Would you be gracious about it?

TEN KEYS TO SUCCESSFUL INTRODUCTIONS

1. HAVE A NEUTRAL TERRITORY FOR INTRODUCTIONS
2. CONTROL & SUPERVISE INTRODUCTIONS
3. AGE DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE
4. WATCH YOUR REACTIONS!
5. BE ALERT TO NATURAL BEHAVIOR RULES
6. GRADUALLY INCREASE INTERACTIONS
7. TIME FACTOR FOR INTEGRATION
8. ALLOW FOR ADAPTATION
9. CHOOSE A BENEFICIAL TIME PERIOD FOR THE INTRODUCTION
10. HAVE REALISTIC EXPECTATIONS & GET HELP IF YOU NEED IT!
Let's look at a couple of situations with the same species. In Part 3 we will look at different species and get into brief examples of behavior and strategies of dealing with the animals successfully.
SAME SPECIES: DOGS
Younger dogs in the household are usually pretty open to newer pups. It is the older animals who may have a bit of discomfort with the transplanted pooch. Bowser could be male or female, it really doesn't matter since they will have the same complaints. Intact (unneutered) animals will tend to have more difficulties than those who are neutered. My personal preference is to have animals neutered BEFORE relocation. Remember that it can take several weeks for the hormonal surges to calm down after the operation and the animal should be sufficiently recovered before attempting relocation since both activities are stressful.

1. HAVE A NEUTRAL TERRITORY FOR INTRODUCTIONS
When you first introduce any animals it is best to do so on neutral territory. A bad place to introduce a dog would be right next to the dinner bowls! Better places would be in the front yard or on a walk or when you go to pick up the animal.

2. CONTROL & SUPERVISE INTRODUCTIONS
The best type of introduction is where the animals have space to move around. They should always be supervised but allowed to move or get away from each other. Sometimes a friend's or neighbor's fenced yard is ideal. Put the new animal in the area first and then bring your animal in.

This type of introduction can also be done through fencing or with an escape route for one or both of the animals. It should also be supervised by adults. An example would be an introduction in a yard with an escape route into a confined area or an area where you could block the other animal from entering.

With an older dog and a puppy introduction where you are a bit unsure, it usually will be okay to leave the pup with free range and have control over the older animal. Again, it depends on the situation and attitude of your animal. A fearful dog with no friends may be harder to introduce a new animal to. However, in some other cases they are easier to introduce to new dogs because of those tendencies.

3. AGE DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE
Younger animals tend to be more easily acceptable. They usually will greet the older established animals with the proper social etiquette of submissiveness. (ie., They acknowledge the older dog as the "Big Cheese") The older animal will usually posture and accept the pup or posture and growl or snarl at the newcomer. Many times this is because the happy pup pushes the limits to see where the boundaries are and it is necessary for the older dog to show them the limits.

4. WATCH YOUR REACTIONS!
Since you can trigger aggression by tension on the leash, I do not always recommend having the dogs restrained this way. It is an option if you are worried and have no other alternative. In that case, both animals could be controlled on the leash with the owners far enough away from the dog that the complete leash only allows the dogs to sniff each other and that the owners will only have to take a step back one step to eliminate access. It is best to keep the leashes without tension.

5. BE ALERT TO NATURAL BEHAVIOR RULES
Often, concerned owners will interfere incorrectly. Most times it is better for you to ignore the situation and let the dogs work it out. It is okay to scold the dog if they continue to go beyond a reasonable limit. DO NOT rescue the other dog or pick it up and ostracize the established animal! Why? Because you will make the situation worse. If you do this you are interfering with the natural dog social order and the pup you rescue will have more serious repercussions to face later. Also, you need to praise your established animal for tolerating the changes. Praise what you want and ignore or verbally correct that which you don't.

Another important rule is to always give the older more dominant animal the proper recognition and praise. If the new pup comes up to you with the older dog, follow their rules and greet the older dog first. Praise him for being good and then acknowledge the pup. It will save you all from a tremendous amount of trauma!

6. GRADUALLY INCREASE INTERACTIONS
You may want to allow for some private time for each of your animals. Feeding areas may or may not be an issue. Toilet areas, toys, treats, sleeping arrangements and daily schedules are things you will need to think about handling before introducing the new animal. This could be a very smooth transition if you do.

7. TIME FACTOR FOR INTEGRATION
Depending on the individual animals and a number of other influences, the transition can be pretty fast or fairly long. Some animals adapt immediately while others will take up to six months! Allow for ample adjustment time. The more effort and research you put into this effort BEFORE you get a new animal the smoother and faster you can make the transition. It is critical to not leave the animals alone unattended during the integration process. If you do, chances are you may have opened the window for an opportunity to fighting and chances of injuries from aggressive interactions. Isolate the animals from each other when you are gone until you are sure they get along well and are comfortable.

8. ALLOW FOR ADAPTATION
This is important because sometimes animals will revert to old "bad" behavior problems due to stress. Allowing for minor changes in scheduling or temporary movement of things such as bedding or feeding locations may be necessary. Also, behavior problems related to housesoiling or chewing may be noticed and will need compassionate corrections.

9. CHOOSE A BENEFICIAL TIME FOR THE INTRODUCTION
Vacation time is one of the better times to acquire a new animal. It allows you to get to know the new animal and make the transition easier for all concerned. Weekends are good if you are not close to having vacation time. If you have others living in your home, it is a benefit to temporarily see if you can have scheduled days off that overlap or are consecutive. If your days off are Saturdays and Sundays and your partner's are Mondays and Tuesday it can help a lot.

10. HAVE REALISTIC EXPECTATIONS & GET HELP IF YOU NEED IT!
This is probably the most important consideration when getting a new pet. It is important to recognize the needs of the animal as an individual and as a specific breed with traits toward certain behaviors. If you are unsure or think you have gotten in over your head, seek professional help from a behavior expert or even a trainer.

Continued in Part 3

ADDING A NEW ANIMAL TO THE HOUSEHOLD...(Part 1)

2007-10-18T18:02:00.000+07:00

by Diana Guerrero

People are always asking if it is hard to have a multiple species household or how to bring in and introduce a new animal with the least amount of trauma. In both cases it is possible but you have to do some pre-planning and really evaluate if it is the best thing to do for your existing animals and your household..
LIFESTYLE EXAMPLES
One of my clients has six dogs, three cats and a variety of visitors. It causes very little upheaval when a new animal is brought into the fold. However, she is extremely limited in relation to her traveling without her menagerie and has a fairly large pet food bill, sustaining product bill (litter, supplements) and Veterinary budget to deal with. Since there are only a couple people in the household the animals have unique ways of demanding attention. It is also difficult to make sure they all have the attention they need or want and extremely demanding of time for grooming and other upkeep. (i.e., scooping the poop!)

There is another woman who has one dog and one bird. The bird and dog got along well after a fairly short integration period. Because the dog gets very focused attention and training, he is well mannered and well socialized. Where ever the owner travels, he travels. Her pet care bills are reasonable and she has more freedom to go and do.

One of the perks the second owner has is that the dog is so well mannered that he is welcome at homes of their mutual friends which allows him to travel more with his owner. Another of the perks is that he is toilet trained on command, which is great on the road. The bird, however, is not good with travel out of his environment yet (he was a trauma rescue) so he often stays at home with the sitter. They are both so well behaved that it is easy to find sitters and others to look after them if the owner is traveling without them.

These are two extremes of some perks and benefits and things to consider before adding another animal to your household. As with anything, there are always two sides to the picture and there are always various considerations to review.

QUESTIONNAIRE
Here are some questions to ask yourself BEFORE you bring another animal home with you:

1. Are your animals open to new companionship?
Some animals enjoy their exclusive relationship with you. They can become very territorial or emotionally distraught if you bring a new animal into the home. There are ways to deal with this to minimize the transition and adapt new animals or other species into the home, but you should consider your household as it is now and what you feel will be the reactions of your established pets.
2. Do you and/or your family have the time to spend with more animals?
Quality time with animals is more important than quantity. Some animals like to hang out with you while others will want to engage in play activities or excursions. It is not fair to add more animals if you think you will be unable to give them proper attention, care, and love. It is also incorrect to think they will entertain each other. Many times new animals will increase problem behaviors and you will have "Double Trouble." Usually animals will enjoy spending time with others of their species but there are many factors to consider before you attempt to bring another one into the family.

3. Can you financially provide for more animals?
Animals are a big commitment. The more you have the more resources they demand. If you have increased Veterinary bills, a larger food bill, specialized needs (toys, carriers, bowls, leashes, etc.,), and special emotional demands (behaviorist, trainer budget) can you provide them if they are necessary?

4. Is the motive for obtaining the animal emotionally driven or pre-planned? Is it realistic?
If you have suffered a loss, just saw the most adorable litter, or received a gift of an animal are you committed to the reality of what that animal will need for the duration of that animal's life?

5. Will the animal be healthy and current on shots BEFORE you bring them into the home?
This is critical to a multiple animal household. Sometimes you may want to have tests run and make sure all the vaccinations are done. If not you may introduce parasites, disease, or infections to your current pets.

Could you answer all these questions positively? If yes, then read more about integration. If no, then please reconsider and pick the more humane action.
FINAL NOTES BEFORE INTEGRATION
Countless times the phone rings with people looking to place animals. It actually breaks my heart and makes me mad that people will treat these emotionally bonded family members like furniture. Many people do not think in advance. It is hard to find rental property with animals, it limits your freedom, and you will encounter a variety of other inconvenient things. ANIMALS ARE A LIFELONG COMMITMENT. If you have anything else in mind you are being irresponsible and cruel. Giving up an animal is like giving up a child, the emotional repercussion on you is minimal, it is much worse to the dependent who has depended on you for their well-being, love, and protection.

Fortunately there are many people really are committed to their animals and provide for their emotional, physical and mental needs. When you work with behavior you see all types of scenarios and both the very best and very worst. When we collectively start caring better for those animals who entrust us with their very souls, then we will be able to extend that caring to the environment, and other people. It takes effort, commitment, concern, and love. If you can provide that to an animal, then you are ready to move on.

Continued in Part 2

Removing Pet Odors And Stains

2007-10-14T15:49:00.000+07:00

To successfully train your pet to avoid those ‘scent marked’ areas of his urination and/or defecation:

1 Find all soiled areas using your nose and eyes. A black-light bulb will usually show even old urine stains. Turn out all lights in the room; use the black-light to identify soiled areas and lightly outline the areas with chalk.
2 Clean the soiled areas appropriately to remove the odors (see below).
3 Make the areas unattractive and/or unavailable (see below).
4 Make his potty area attractive.
5 Train your pet to use the appropriate place to eliminate by using positive reinforcement (eg praise, treats and play times immediately after he has eliminated).

These steps work as a team for your effort to be successful. For example, if you fail to completely clean the area (including removing the odor), your pet will be able to smell his personal scent and he’ll continue to return to the ‘scent marked’ area for his urination and/or defecation. Bear in mind that even if you can’t smell traces of his urine, your pet can. Hence your most important chore is to completely remove (neutralize) that odor.

Do Not Use these methods to remove odor:
*Steam Cleaners – Do not use steam cleaners to clean urine odors from carpet or upholstery as the heat will permanently set the odor and stain by bonding the protein into any man-made fibers.
*Cleaning Chemicals (especially those with strong odors such as ammonia or vinegar) – From your pet’s perspective, these don’t effectively eliminate or cover the urine odor. It may actually encourage your pet’s inclination to reinforce the urine scent mark in that area.

To Clean Washable Items:
*Machine-wash as usual, adding a one pound box of baking soda to your regular detergent. If possible, air-dry the items.
*If you can still see the stain or smell the urine, machine-wash the item again and add an enzymatic cleaner. Be sure to follow the directions for using the cleaner carefully.
*During the re-training period, a good way to discourage your pet from using the bedding is to cover the bed with a vinyl, flannel-backed tablecloth. They’re machine washable, inexpensive and unattractive to your pet.

To Clean Carpeted Ares and Upholstery:
*Soak up as much of the urine as possible with a combination of newspaper and paper towels. The more fresh urine you can remove before it dries, especially from carpet, the simpler it will be to remove the odor. Place a thick layer of paper towels on the wet spot and cover that with a thick layer of newspaper. Stand on this padding for about a minute. Remove the padding and repeat the process until the area is barely damp.
*If possible, take the fresh, urine-soaked paper towel to your dog’s potty area and let him see you doing it. Don’t act angry when you do this but try to project a ‘happy’ attitude to him. This will help to remind him that eliminating isn’t a ‘bad’ behavior as long as it’s done in the right place.
*Rinse the ‘accident zone’ thoroughly with clean, cool water. After rinsing, remove as much of the water as possible by blotting or by using a ‘wet-vac’, ‘shop-vac’ or ‘extractor’.
*If you’ve previously used cleaners or chemicals of any kind on the area, then neutralizing cleaners won’t be effective until you’ve rinsed every trace of the old cleaner from the carpet. Even if you haven’t used chemicals recently, any trace of a non-protein-based substance will weaken the effect of the enzymatic cleaner. The cleaner will use up its ‘energy’ on the old cleaners instead of on the protein stains you want removed.
*To remove all traces of old chemicals and clean old or heavy stains in carpeting, consider using or renting an extractor or wet-vac. This machine operates much like a vacuum cleaner and is efficient and economical. Extracting/wet-vac machines do the best job of forcing clean water through your carpet and then forcing the dirty water back out again. When using these machines or cleaners, be sure to follow instructions carefully. Don’t use any chemicals with these machines – they work more effectively with plain water.
*Once the area is totally clean, you should use a high-quality pet odor neutralizer available at pet supply stores. Test the affected surface for staining first.
If the areas still looks stained after it’s completely dry from extracting and neutralizing, try any good carpet stain remover.
*If urine has soaked down into the padding underneath your carpet, your job will be more difficult as you may need to remove and replace that portion of the carpet and padding.

To Clean Floors and Walls:
*If the wood on your furniture, walls, baseboard or floor is discolored, it means that the varnish or paint has been affected by the acid in the urine.
You will need to remove and replace the layer of varnish or paint.
Try to use washable enamel paints and some washable wallpapers as these materials respond more favorably to enzymatic cleaners

Kum Chee
A Happy Dog Lover and Owner
http://www.kumchee.com

Territorial Marking Behaviour in Dogs

2007-10-14T15:46:00.000+07:00

Dogs are territorial animals, ie they ‘stake out a claim’ to a particular space, area or object, to other people and animals by marking it with a variety of methods and intensity. For example, a dog may bark to drive away what he perceives as intruders to his territory; or a cat may mark a valued object by rubbing it with her face.

Some dogs may go to the extreme of urinating to mark a particular area as their own. Such behaviour should not be mistaken as housesoiling; rather it is a territorial behaviour. To solve the problem, we have to address the underlying reason for your dog’s need to mark his territory in this way.

Difference Between House-soiling And Urine-Marking

Your dog is urine-marking his territory when:

* The problem is mainly urination as dogs seldom mark with faeces

* The amount of urine is small and is found mainly on vertical surfaces although dogs do sometimes mark on horizontal surfaces.

* Leg-lifting and spraying are dominant versions of urine-marking.

* If your dog is not spayed or neutered as your dog is more likely to urine-mark compared to another dog that is spayed or neutered.

* Your dog urinates on new objects in the environment (eg a shopping bag, a visitor’s handbag), or objects that have unfamiliar smells, or objects that have another animal’s scent.

* Your dog has conflicts with other animals in your home. When there’s instability in the pack hierarchy, a dog may feel the need to establish his dominance by urine-marking his territory.

* Your dog has contact with other animals outside your home, eg if your dog sees another dog through a door or window, he may feel a need to mark his territory.

* Your dog marks frequently on neighbourhood walks.

What You Can Do:

* Spay or neuter your dog as soon as possible as it may stop your dog’s urine-marking. However, if he has been urine-marking for a long period of time, it may be difficult to break his pattern of behaviour

* Resolve conflicts between animals in your home.

* Restrict your dog’s access to doors and windows through which he can observe animals outside. If this is not possible, discourage the presence of such animals near your home.

* Clean soiled areas thoroughly. Don’t use strong smelling cleaners as these may cause your dog to ‘over-mark’ the spot.

* Make previously soiled areas inaccessible or unattractive.

* If making soiled areas inaccessible or unattractive isn’t possible, try to change the significance of those areas, eg feed, treat and play with your dog in the areas he is inclined to mark. A dog is less inclined to urine-mark areas that he feeds and plays at.

* Keep objects likely to cause marking out of reach, such as guest’s belongings, new purchases, etc.

* If your dog is marking in response to a new resident in your home (eg a new roommate, etc), have the new resident make friends with your dog by feeding, grooming and playing with your dog. Make sure good things happen to your dog when the new resident is around.

* Watch your dog at all times when he is indoors for signs of his urinating. When he begins to urinate, interrupt him with a loud noise and take him outside. Praise him and give him a treat if he urinates outside. If you are unable to watch your dog, put him in a crate where he has never marked.

What You Should NOT Do:

* Don’t punish your dog after he has urine-marked as punishment administered even a minute after the event is ineffective as he won’t understand why he is being punished.

Dog Aren't People

Remember dogs don’t urinate or defecate out of spite or jealousy.

If he urinates on your baby’s diaper bag, it’s not because he is jealous of, or dislikes your baby. It’s the unfamiliar scents and sounds of a new baby in the house that is causing him to reaffirm his claim on his territory.

Dominance or Anxiety?

Urine-marking is usually associated with dominance behaviour. While this is often the case, some dogs may mark when they feel anxious or upset.

For example, a new baby in the house brings new sounds, smells and people, as well as changes in routine. Your dog probably isn’t getting as much attention as he was used to getting, which cause him to feel anxious. As a result, he may start to urine-mark.

Kum Chee
A Happy Dog Lover and Owner
www.kumchee.com

How To Deal With Your Dog's Shyness Problem

2007-10-14T15:43:00.000+07:00

Is your dog or puppy shy or afraid of strangers, certain situations or objects? Is your dog fear snapping or is your puppy fear biting?

Is Shyness a Problem or Not?

It is natural for some dogs to be shy of things that are new and unfamiliar. During development, a dog becomes socialized with familiar people, animals, objects and situations. But they will still tend to shy away from the unfamiliar. Shyness in itself is not a problem. It is only a problem if the dog's shyness inhibits your lifestyle or if the dog develops other problems related to shyness such as fear biting. Shy dogs often bolt when frightened, endangering themselves by running blindly into danger, such as traffic.

Unintentionally Training Your Dog or Puppy to be Shy

In a well meaning attempt to calm their dog's fears, many people end up actually reinforcing the dog's shy behavior.

In effect, the owner inadvertently trains the dog to be more fearful. Be careful not to reinforce your dog's fearfulness by offering reassurance. When our timid dog hides, barks defensively, whines, screams or snaps, our response is only natural. Our protective instincts cause us to reassure the dog by talking soothingly, petting or even picking up the dog for a hug. These actions flagrantly reward the dog for his fearful behavior.

It is best to just completely ignore your dog when he acts fearful. Let him learn by his own experience that there is nothing to be afraid of.

Save your praise and reassurance for times when your dog acts with confidence.

Shyness, Fear and Socialization

Many people try to rehabilitate their dog too quickly, forcing him to socialize with other dogs and people. This usually reinforces the dog's view that other dogs and people are frightening.

On the one hand, the dog needs to be socialized as quickly as possible, but on the other hand, he should not be forced into it. If you push your dog to do too much too soon, your dog will only become more fearful and may be forced into a situation where he feels he must defend himself.

Socializing a dog and helping him build his confidence is a time consuming task. Thrusting him into the arms of every visitor and dragging him out to socialize with many other dogs can be counter-productive.

Strangers should never be allowed to approach your dog to pet him. It should always be left to your dog to make the first contact. If your dog does not want to approach, that is OK. Just give him plenty of time to 'hide and peek' and eventually he will come out of hiding. It's up to you to provide ample opportunity for socialization, but it is up to the dog to proceed at his own pace. Don't verbally try to encourage him out of hiding. He will probably interpret your encouragement as praise for hiding. Don't try to force him to come out - this will only frighten him even more.

Fearful Snapping, Growling and Aggression

Shy or fearful dogs can react defensively when approached by unfamiliar people. They may try to keep strangers away by growling, snarling or snapping. These behaviors must not be ignored.

No dog should be allowed to get away with acting aggressively towards humans. The fact that your dog is shy is no excuse to condone growling or biting. You must instantly and effectively reprimand such behavior.

As soon as your dog stops acting aggressive, it is essential that you praise him. We do not want your dog to think that the presence of the stranger brings on the reprimand, but that his own obnoxious behavior causes you to get angry. If it is ever necessary for you to reprimand aggressive tendencies in your shy dog, you have probably been trying to push him along too quickly.

Avoid similar threatening situations until your dog has developed sufficient confidence to deal with them without resorting to aggression. Do not allow strangers to reprimand your fearful or shy dog.

Kum Chee
A Happy Dog Lover and Owner
www.kumchee.com

Understand Your Dog's Body Language (Part 2 of 2)

2007-10-14T15:36:00.000+07:00

Dogs communicate with their actions, movement of their eyes, ears, mouths, etc, body gestures, tail wagging and more. Know to tune into your dog's body language, you'll realize what he's talking about and what he needs. Of course, each dog, like each human, has his own personality traits. Over time, you'll no doubt come to learn these individual traits. But there are general moods and behaviors that you can expect from dogs.

Barking

Dogs bark for many reasons, such as when perceived intruders (humans, dogs, or other animals) approach its territory, for identification, when hearing an unfamiliar or unidentified noise, when seeing something that the dog doesn't expect to be there, or when playing. Barking also expresses different emotions for a dog, such as loneliness, fear, suspicion, stress, and pleasure. Play or excited barks are often short and sharp, such as when a dog is attempting to get a person or another dog to play.

Dogs generally try to avoid conflict; their vocalizations are part of what communicates to other dogs whether they mean harm or are in a playful mood.

The bark of a distressed or stressed dog is high pitched, atonal, and repetitive (and tends to get higher in pitch as the dog becomes more upset). For example, a dog left home alone and who has separation anxiety might bark in such a way.

Some research has suggested that dogs have separate barks for different animals, including dog, fox, deer, human and cat.

Growls

Growls can be used to threaten, to invite play, and to show dominance. Growling should be watched with special attention because it can indicate dominance or aggression. A soft, low-pitched growl often indicates aggression; the dog may feel threatened and may be provoked to attack. An intense growl, without showing any teeth, may often indicate a playful attitude. Always consider the context of a growl, and exercise caution.

Whines and Whimpers

Dogs whine and whimper to show that they are either in pain, or are afraid, or when excited, such as when greeting another dog, or in anticipation of a treat or an outing. Some dogs may use whining as a means of getting attention.

Howls

Howling provides long-range communication with other dogs or owners. Howling can be used to locate another pack member, to keep strangers away, or to call the pack for hunting. Sometimes dogs howl in response to high-pitched or loud noises such as alarms, sirens, music, or singing.

Confidence

Dogs that are confident and comfortable will stand erect. Their tails will be up and wagging in a sweep. The ears may be pricked up or relaxed, and they will look directly at you. The mouth will be partially open in what some call a smile.

Fear

Dogs that are fearful will lower their stance. The tail will usually be down, tucked between his legs, although some dogs actually wag their tails when they are unsure and evaluating a situation. The fearful dog will not look directly at you. When he turns his head away, he's thinking, 'hmmm… if I don't see you, you don't see me, and nothing bad is going to happen to me.’

Dogs that are fearful or unsure may use "calming signals" to reduce stress for themselves or others with whom they're interacting. Some of these signals include yawning, barking, intentionally becoming distracted, lip-licking, circling, sniffing the ground, or just sitting or lying down.

Aggression

Certain breeds are hard to read - their tails are naturally curled up, and their ears are always perked up. Some dogs don't ever give any indication that they are going to bite so watch the dog's muzzle. A muzzle will twitch before a bite.

Other signs of aggression include stiff legs and body with the tail straight out, ears "pinned" back close to the head, a lowered head with eyes fixed intently at you. The lips are sometimes drawn back in a snarl and a low growl is heard.

Many people mistakenly believe that hackled hair on a dog's back means they are aggressive. However, these are usually dogs who aren't at all confident - they're apprehensive so hackled hair makes them look bigger.

You win!

Play bows are an invitation to play. The rear end is up, the front part of his body is down, and the tail is wagging. Rolling over onto his back with his belly up is a classic sign of submission (or a request for a belly rub). A dog that raises a paw with a bent foreleg is showing submission.

And more …

Of course, dog language goes far beyond these few examples. Individual pets develop their own techniques for communicating with us when they want to eat, go out, or be left alone.

And there are the dogs that have either never learned or have mis-learned their own language. The company they keep is important. Dogs learn from other dogs, both the good and the bad. An isolated pup is like an isolated child, and the sad thing is he's not fluent in caninus. The puppy that gives all the calming signs in his repertoire and still has the stuffing knocked out of him by an unruly larger playmate may eventually resort to meeting newcomers with signs of aggression rather than calming ones.

Kum Chee

A Happy Dog Lover and Owner

http://www.kumchee.com/

Understand Your Dog's Body Language (Part 1 of 2)

2007-10-14T15:32:00.000+07:00

Although your dog cannot use "words", he is always communicating. Dogs use their bodies to express their emotions, to show affection and to identify rank.

Unlike humans, dogs don't hide their emotions so what you see is what he's really feeling.

Dogs communicate with their actions, movement of their eyes, ears, mouths, etc, body gestures, tail wagging and more. Know to tune into your dog's body language, you'll realize what he's talking about and what he needs. Of course, each dog, like each human, has his own personality traits. Over time, you'll no doubt come to learn these individual traits. But there are general moods and behaviors that you can expect from dogs.

Tail

How high or low the tail is held, in relation to dog's breed, and how it is moved can signify the dog's mood and/or rank. The higher the tail is held, the more dominant or confident the dog is; the lower, the more submissive/insecure. A tail held straight up, or even slightly curved over the back, shows that the dog is very dominant. If the fur on the tail is also bristled, the dog is saying they are willing and able to defend their position.

Small, slow wags of the dog’s tail indicate that he is questioning things around him. Either he’s unsure if the target dog or person is friendly, or he’s unsure what is going on or what is expected of him.

Large, fast wags of the tail are sign of a happy or excited dog. If the wags are large enough to pull the dog's hips with them, the message includes a bit of submission to someone he views as pack leader.

Dogs with docked tails tend to have some problems communicating with other dogs, since their tail movements are extremely difficult to detect.

So remember that tail wagging is not always a sign of friendliness.

Take for example; your dog meets a strange dog off the leash. The other dog approaches with great interest, ears alert and tail wagging. But this dog is giving out signals that spell hostility. The wagging tail is stiff and held high. The eyes have a hard expression and stare into your dog's eyes. The dog's hackles are raised. The animal's whole posture signifies aggression. Even without growling or showing his teeth, a dog behaving like this has a chip on his shoulder. You should remove your dog from the scene quietly and quickly.

A friendly or curious dog's tail will be wagging in wide sweeps, hanging down. His ears are down and his fur is smooth along his shoulders and back. The dog will not attempt to look you or your dog in the eye. He will go through the typical sniffing pattern with your dog, first nose to nose, then the genitals. Offer this dog the back of your fist to smell, and then you can probably pet him if you wish.

The dog in conflict between dominance and fear will show a conflict of signals which can be less easy for us to interpret. Lips may retract horizontally and vertically. The dog may growl and avert his gaze at the same time, approach with ears back and tail wagging, or bark aggressively with the tail tucked. Such dogs should be handled with caution.

Expressive Faces

Some dogs have very expressive faces. Many of them smile, and this should not be confused with the snarl or fear expression. It does mean, 'I'm having a good time, hope you are too'. Eyes and eyebrows convey volumes, and so does the set of the ears.

The fearful dog draws back his ears against his head, which he lowers submissively, he crouches, making himself look smaller and less threatening, and tucks his tail between his legs. If he can he will run away, otherwise he may roll on his back, lift his leg and even urinate. Lips are retracted horizontally in that rather goofy look that means 'I'm incapable of hurting you, please don't hurt me'. The gaze is averted. (Dominant dogs tend to attack from the front, while fearful ones will often sneak up and bite from behind)

Ears

Ear position relates the dog's level of attention, and reaction, to a situation or animal. Erect ears facing forward means the dog is very attentive, while ears laid back suggests a negative, usually fearful, reaction. Dogs with drop ears, like Beagles, can't use these signals very well. Wolf-like dogs will, when content and happy, often hold their ears in a horizontal position but still forward. This has been referred to as the "Wolf Smile".

Mouth

Mouth expressions can provide information about the dog's mood. When a dog wants to be left alone, he might yawn (although yawning also might indicate sleepiness, confusion, or stress) or start licking his mouth without the presence of any food. When a dog is happy or wants to play, he might pant with lips relaxed, covering the teeth and with what sometimes appears to be a happy expression (it might appear as a smile to some observers) or with the mouth open. Mouth expressions that indicate aggression include the snarl, with lips retracting to expose the teeth, although some dogs also use this during play.

It's important to look at the dog's whole body and not just the mouth or tail before deciding what the dog is trying to communicate. What appears initially as aggression might be an invitation to play, or vice-versa.

Eyes and Eyebrows

While dogs don't have actual eyebrows, they do have a distinctive ridge above their eyes, and some breeds, like the Rottweiler and the German Shepherd, have markings there. A dog's eyebrow movements usually express a similar emotion to that of a human's eyebrow movements. Raised eyebrows suggest interest, lowered brows suggest confusion or mild anger, and one eyebrow up suggests bewilderment. Slitted eyes translate the same as human's also - suspicion or anger.

Feet and Legs

Although a dog's feet cannot manipulate like human hands, a person can use them as an avenue of communication. A dog might stamp its feet, alternating its left and right front legs, while its back legs are still. This occurs when the dog is excited, wants something, or wants its owner's attention. Pointers tend to tuck one front leg up, when they sense game nearby. This behavior might not be communication so much as the dog freezing mid-step as a result of the dog's instinct telling the dog to immediately still. It is also common for dogs to paw or scratch for objects they desire. Many dogs are trained to mimic a human handshake, offering a paw to a human stooping down and offering their own hand in exchange.

Head

A dog's ability to make facial gestures is not as refined as a human's. However, they can wrinkle or straighten their forehead to show confusion or determination, and when puzzled or curious, will often raise their eyelids and tilt their head to one side.

A dog's eyes widen when playful and unthreatened. Some dogs squint their eyes when they are praised. When afraid, a dog's pupils typically dilate. Most dogs avoid intimate eye contact, seemingly to avoid confrontation. But when angered or preparing for self-defense, a dog's eyes will narrow and follow it's foe's moves carefully. When exhibiting aggressive behavior, it is best to not look an unfamiliar dog in the eye, because it may interpret it as a challenge.

An unstressed dog in typical posture allows its tongue to loll out of its mouth. When begging, or when they are particularly happy, they may pull their lips back seemingly to smile. This pseudo-smile is normally only exhibited when interacting with people, perhaps a learned behavior from humans. A dog showing tightly clenched teeth and wrinkled nose is likely to attack if further provoked.

Dogs have excellent hearing, and can position their ears advantageously for following sounds. Dogs typically raise their ears when listening intently and when demonstrating compliance with commands. When a dog's ears are pulled back, they may be showing submission, or fear.

…. Part 2 of 2 to follow ….

Kum Chee
http://www.kumchee.com/

How To Deal With Your Dog's Digging Problem?

2007-10-14T15:25:00.000+07:00

Digging is a natural instinct for the dog. There are many reasons why dogs dig:

1 They are bored
2 They need a hole to get cooler when it’s hot
3 They want to escape
4 They bury objects
5 They like to

To reduce a dog’s tendency to dig, give sufficient exercise to him every day to burn off his excessive energy. By leaving your dog in the backyard does not count as exercise for him.

Dealing With Boredom

Leaving your dog in the backyard first time in the morning without leaving him with anything to occupy him, your dog will start to dig to occupy himself.

Consider:

1 Consider giving him toys like a Buster Cube or Boomer Ball.
2 The Buster Cube is a plastic square where you can place small pieces of food in and your dog will be kept focused in getting the treats rather than digging
3 Spend time playing with your dog with his toys in the yard
4 Give him plenty of high quality premium hard kibble. Avoid foods that are loaded with sugars, chemicals and preservatives that exacerbate your dog’s energy level
5 Engage your dog to meaningful activities like obedience training, playtimes, feeding so that he will not consider the backyard as his banishment and thus reducing his anxiety and tendency to dig
Dealing With Digging Cooling Holes

In dealing with this problem, consider providing:

Shade in the backyard
Well-ventilated doghouse
A small wading pool
Hose to throw up a fine mist
Cut short your dog’s hairs

Dealing With Burying Objects

Dogs may dig and bury objects and later dig them up again.

To deal with this problem, remember:

1 Give him larger toys so that it is difficult for him to bury the toys
2 For smaller toys, consider tying it to a tree or fence to prevent him from burying
3 If the problem persists, consider burying his fecal matter in the holes he has dug as he is likely to return and dig in the same spot, and will find digging his poop to be unpleasant
It is important to remember that you should never let your dog to see you digging, like planting your flower bed, etc as it will confuse him why you can dig while he cannot.

Dealing With Dogs Who Are Bred To Dig

Like the Terriers, Dachshunds, certain breeds of dogs are bred to dig. In dealing with this types of dogs, it is not possible to stop digging completely.

To deal with this problem, teach your dog to dig in one spot. The more he digs there, the less he will dig elsewhere.

To achieve this, consider:

1 Set up a digging pit where the ground is relatively soft
2 Bury items your dog is likely to want to dig up like his special food treats.
3 Take your dog to the location and encourage him to dig in this area
4 Praise him when he digs in this spot
5 If need be, bury his fecal matter in holes outside the digging pit to discourage him from venturing elsewhere to dig

Dealing With Escape Problem

This is a complex problem to deal with as it is sign of other underlying problem. For example, when a dog is not taught the proper manner of behaving like not jumping up and acting unruly in the house, he may be ignored by the owner and develops anxiety problem since he is a social creature. This may lead to his tendency to escape by digging.

Un-neutered male dogs may also try to dig to venture outside especially when there are female dogs on heat in the neighbourhood.

To deal with this problem, consider:

1 Figure out the reason why your dog is digging and apply the appropriate solution
2 If this fails, seek assistance from a professional trainer

Kum Chee

www.kumchee.com

Why Does Your Dog Mount Other Dogs?

2007-10-13T23:57:00.000+07:00

Typically, when a dog mounts another dog, it is not sexually motivated.

Dogs constantly try to dominate each other - both female and male dogs. It is the instinctive behaviour. When two dogs meet each other, they will first size each other up through eye contact. If one surrenders by lying down then leadership is settled. If not, the battle for dominance begins by the dogs trying to mount each other until one roll over submissively and turns his eyes away. Until the eyes have completely turned away, surrender has not happened as the ‘losing’ dog may launch a sneak attack against the other.

When complete surrender is achieved, the mounting behaviour becomes a dominance display – the one on top reminding the other who is in charge. As the head is the highest part of the dog, when one dog brings the head of the other dog down, it’s a show of who is higher and in control.

Another reason why dogs mount each other is because they know each other well and may have been separated for some time. It is a form of bonding and is not solely associated with males trying to flirt or breed a female.

It is also not uncommon to find that a male dog may even unsheathing his penis to release his scent on the other dog to proclaim to other dogs that he has won the battle over the dog he is mounting on.

As this is the instinctive nature and behaviour of your dog, the behaviour should not be discouraged. Rather it is better to leave the dogs alone.

The only time when this behaviour is abnormal is if a female has some vaginal discharge indicating some sort of infection, which smells as if she is in season. In that case, other dogs will not leave her alone, and a visit to the vet is appropriate.

So the next time when you see two male dogs trying to mount each other, there is no such thing as a ‘GAY DOG!”

Kum Chee

www.kumchee.com

How To Deal With Your Dog's Housebreaking Issue?

2007-10-03T22:09:00.000+07:00

If your dog accidentally eliminate in the night, consider the following:

1. Do not let your dog have any food or water at least two hours before bedtime
2. Take the dog out for his final walk and elimination as late as you possibly can
3. If need be, put him in a crate. Remember the size of the crate should be just enough for him to stand up, turn around, lie down and comfortably stretch out but no bigger than that.

Crate training is effective since most dogs do not like to eliminate where they have to lie. If the crate is large enough, he may eliminate if there is a clean spot for him to lie down.

For an effective housebreaking training, it involves:

1. Positively reinforcing the correct behaviour – praising him when he eliminates in the proper place
2. Managing him by preventing him from eliminating in the wrong place until you take him out to eliminate at the right place.

To do so:

1. Confine your dog in a crate
2. After a few hours, take him from the crate to the location you want him to eliminate in.
3. Remember to take your dog out the same door to the same location every time you want him to eliminate
4. Wait for 10 minutes for him to eliminate
5. When he does it within 10 minutes, praise and reward him (with his favourite treats)
6. Wait for an extra 2 to 3 minutes to make sure he completely empties himself
7. Take him back in the house and give him 20 to 30 minutes of supervised free time
8. Use a timer to ensure that he is not allowed for more than 20 to 30 minutes of freedom
9. When the timer goes off, you can either:
a. Take him back out to eliminate again. When he does so, remember to praise him and give him his free time
b. Put him back to his crate

Mistakes are made when owners give their dogs too much free time, fail to take the dog out again, fail to confine the dog when the time is up, or fail to wait the extra two or three minutes after he eliminates the first time

Remember if your dog fails to eliminate within 10 minutes, he should be confined again. This is not a punishment. It is simply a way of preventing the dog from going to the wrong place for elimination.

Remember that consistent feeding and watering schedules is important to effectively train your dog in his housebreaking. Free food and water will make it unpredictable when your dog needs to eliminate. Bear in mind the following points in planning your feeding and water schedules:

1. Your dog sho should be fed at fixed times
2. He should be given only 10 to 15 minutes to eat.
3. After that, remove any unfinished food.
4. Free feeding should be avoided
Water should only be given during his free time and when you take your dog to eliminate; and sparingly when he is confined in his crate

As a thumb of rule, a good guide to estimate the duration your dog (if he is a puppy) needs to eliminate is by adding an hour for every month of his puppy’s life, ie if he is three months old, he can only hold for about 3 hours before eliminating.

If your dog accidentally eliminates in the house, correction after the event is not only a waste of time but can be counter productive as it only confuses the dog.

To correct the situation, identify the possible cause of the accidental elimination in the house and take action to avoid it. For example, has you given too much free time to your dog in the house before you take him out to eliminate?

In situations where you cannot take your dog outside to eliminate, consider using a potty training kit (like Puppy Go Potty). Such kit contains absorbent paper (‘litter’) and a waterproof tray

To train your dog to use the potty:

1. Put your dog in an exercise pen – this is a metal collapsible pen
2. Place the potty on one side of the pen
3. When your dog can no longer control his urge to eliminate, he will most likely go to the tray to do so

During the housebreaking process, avoid any dietary changes. If change is essential, avoid possible stomach upset by:

1. Feed your dog with two-thirds of the old food and one-third of the new food for the 1st week
2. For the 2nd week, use one-third of the old food and two-thirds of the new food
3. Only completely feed him with the new food from the 3rd week onwards

And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!

by :www.kumchee.com

How To Deal With Your Dog Stealing Food From The Counters?

2007-10-01T23:43:00.000+07:00

This behaviour should be eliminated as it can be dangerous for your dog to jump and steal food from the counter. Afterall, he may have stolen and eaten uncooked food or cooked food with bones that can caused medical problems. And it is likely that your dog will lose interest in his dog food once he gets used to the taste of such food.

The first step in handling this problem is that as a owner, you should never give food from the counter to your dog, no matter how your dog whines and begs from you. By doing so, you are teaching your dog that food for him is always on the counter.

To handle this problem, the following three-pronged method may be used:

- Never feed the dog from the counter

- Never let your dog to have unsupervised access to the counter for at least four months

a. Create a spot near the counter for him
b. For the first two months, leashed him to this spot whenever you are preparing food from the counter
c. From the third month onwards, occasionally allow your dog to come to the counter when you are preparing your food. At this time, he should always be on his leash.
d. If your dog starts to jump on the counter,
- Say ‘No’ to your dog
- Quickly pull your dog away from the counter back to his spot
- If he starts to whine, stare and beg, quickly say ‘No’. Praise him if he stops and continue the food preparation
e. Walk your dog to the counter several times a day when not preparing food from the counter, praising him for not jumping and begging

- After about four months, your dog may stop ignoring the food. To fully know that he stops this behaviour, create an opportunity (a setup) for him to steal food from the counter

a. Leave food on the counter
b. Put a motion-sensitive sound alarm
c. Let the dog in the kitchen and walk out of the room
d. If he jumps up to the counter and grabs the food, alarm will sound
e. Immediately comes into the kitchen, say ‘No’ and pull him away from the counter.
f. If your dog is not deterred by the alarm, place a Scat Mat (a flat plastic mat that sends out a very low electrical charge when touch but is not harmful to both human and animal) on the counter. No dog will attempt the action after the experience

And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!

by www.kumchee.com

Basset Hound

2007-09-28T17:39:00.000+07:00

General Appearance

The Basset Hound possesses in marked degree those characteristics which equip it admirably to follow a trail over and through difficult terrain. It is a short-legged dog, heavier in bone, size considered, than any other breed of dog, and while its movement is deliberate, it is in no sense clumsy. In temperament it is mild, never sharp or timid. It is capable of great endurance in the field and is extreme in its devotion.

Head
The head is large and well proportioned. Its length from occiput to muzzle is greater than the width at the brow. In overall appearance the head is of medium width. The skull is well domed, showing a pronounced occipital protuberance. A broad flat skull is a fault. The length from nose to stop is approximately the length from stop to occiput. The sides are flat and free from cheek bumps. Viewed in profile the top lines of the muzzle and skull are straight and lie in parallel planes, with a moderately defined stop. The skin over the whole of the head is loose, falling in distinct wrinkles over the brow when the head is lowered. A dry head and tight skin are faults. The muzzle is deep, heavy, and free from snipiness. The nose is darkly pigmented, preferably black, with large wide-open nostrils. A deep liver-colored nose conforming to the coloring of the head is permissible but not desirable. The teeth are large, sound, and regular, meeting in either a scissors or an even bite. A bite either overshot or undershot is a serious fault. The lips are darkly pigmented and are pendulous, falling squarely in front and, toward the back, in loose hanging flews. The dewlap is very pronounced. The neck is powerful, of good length, and well arched. The eyes are soft, sad, and slightly sunken, showing a prominent haw, and in color are brown, dark brown preferred. A somewhat lighter-colored eye conforming to the general coloring of the dog is acceptable but not desirable. Very light or protruding eyes are faults. The ears are extremely long, low set, and when drawn forward, fold well over the end of the nose. They are velvety in texture, hanging in loose folds with the ends curling slightly inward. They are set far back on the head at the base of the skull and, in repose, appear to be set on the neck. A high set or flat ear is a serious fault.

Forequarters

The chest is deep and full with prominent sternum showing clearly in front of the legs. The shoulders and elbows are set close against the sides of the chest. The distance from the deepest point of the chest to the ground, while it must be adequate to allow free movement when working in the field, is not to be more than one-third the total height at the withers of an adult Basset. The shoulders are well laid back and powerful. Steepness in shoulder, fiddle fronts, and elbows that are out, are serious faults. The forelegs are short, powerful, heavy in bone, with wrinkled skin. Knuckling over of the front legs is a disqualification. The paw is massive, very heavy with tough heavy pads, well rounded and with both feet inclined equally a trifle outward, balancing the width of the shoulders. Feet down at the pastern are a serious fault. The toes are neither pinched together nor splayed, with the weight of the forepart of the body borne evenly on each. The dewclaws may be removed.

Body

The rib structure is long, smooth, and extends well back. The ribs are well sprung, allowing adequate room for heart and lungs. Flatsidedness and flanged ribs are faults. The topline is straight, level, and free from any tendency to sag or roach, which are faults.

Hindquarters

The hindquarters are very full and well rounded, and are approximately equal to the shoulders in width. They must not appear slack or light in relation to the over-all depth of the body. The dog stands firmly on its hind legs showing a well-let-down stifle with no tendency toward a crouching stance. Viewed from behind, the hind legs are parallel, with the hocks turning neither in nor out. Cowhocks or bowed legs are serious faults. The hind feet point straight ahead. Steep, poorly angulated hindquarters are a serious fault. The dewclaws, if any, may be removed.

Tail

The tail is not to be docked, and is set in continuation of the spine with but slight curvature, and carried gaily in hound fashion. The hair on the underside of the tail is coarse.

Size

The height should not exceed 14 inches. Height over 15 inches at the highest point of the shoulder blade is a disqualification.

Gait

The Basset Hound moves in a smooth, powerful, and effortless manner. Being a scenting dog with short legs, it holds its nose low to the ground. Its gait is absolutely true with perfect coordination between the front and hind legs, and it moves in a straight line with hind feet following in line with the front feet, the hocks well bent with no stiffness of action. The front legs do not paddle, weave, or overlap, and the elbows must lie close to the body. Going away, the hind legs are parallel.

Coat

The coat is hard, smooth, and short, with sufficient density to be of use in all weather. The skin is loose and elastic. A distinctly long coat is a disqualification.

Color

Any recognized hound color is acceptable and the distribution of color and markings is of no importance.

Alaskan Malamute

2007-09-24T21:33:00.000+07:00

General Appearance

The Alaskan Malamute, one of the oldest Arctic sled dogs, is a powerful and substantially built dog with a deep chest and strong, well-muscled body. The Malamute stands well over the pads, and this stance gives the appearance of much activity and a proud carriage, with head erect and eyes alert showing interest and curiosity. The head is broad. Ears are triangular and erect when alerted. The muzzle is bulky, only slight diminishing in width from root to nose. The muzzle is not pointed or long, yet not stubby. The coat is thick with a coarse guard coat of sufficient length to protect a woolly undercoat. Malamutes are of various colors. Face markings are a distinguishing feature. These consist of a cap over the head, the face either all white or marked with a bar and/or mask. The tail is well furred, carried over the back, and has the appearance of a waving plume.
The Malamute must be a heavy boned dog with sound legs, good feet, deep chest and powerful shoulders, and have all of the other physical attributes necessary for the efficient performance of his job. The gait must be steady, balanced, tireless and totally efficient. He is not intended as a racing sled dog designed to compete in speed trials. The Malamute is structured for strength and endurance, and any characteristic of the individual specimen, including temperament, which interferes with the accomplishment of this purpose, is to be considered the most serious of faults.

Size, Proportion, Substance

There is a natural range in size in the breed. The desirable freighting sizes are males, 25 inches at the shoulders, 85 pounds; females, 23 inches at the shoulders, 75 pounds. However, size consideration should not outweigh that of type, proportion, movement and other functional attributes. When dogs are judged equal in type, proportion, movement, the dog nearest the desirable freighting size is to be preferred. The depth of chest is approximately one half the height of the dog at the shoulders, the deepest point being just behind the forelegs. The length of the body from point of shoulder to the rear point of pelvis is longer than the height of the body from ground to top of the withers. The body carries no excess weight, and bone is in proportion to size.

Head

The head is broad and deep, not coarse or clumsy, but in proportion to the size of the dog. The expression is soft and indicates an affectionate disposition. The eyes are obliquely placed in the skull. Eyes are brown, almond shaped and of medium size. Dark eyes are preferred. Blue Eyes are a Disqualifying Fault. The ears are of medium size, but small in proportion to the head. The ears are triangular in shape and slightly rounded at the tips. They are set wide apart on the outside back edges of the skull on line with the upper corner of the eye, giving ears the appearance, when erect, of standing off from the skull. Erect ears point slightly forward, but when the dog is at work, the ears are sometimes folded against the skull. High set ears are a fault.

The skull is broad and moderately rounded between the ears, gradually narrowing and flattening on top as it approaches the eyes, rounding off to cheeks that are moderately flat. There is a slight furrow between the eyes. The topline of the skull and the topline of the muzzle show a slight break downward from a straight line as they join. The muzzle is large and bulky in proportion to the size of the skull, diminishing slightly in width and depth from junction with the skull to the nose. In all coat colors, except reds, the nose, lips, and eye rims' pigmentation is black. Brown is permitted in red dogs. The lighter streaked "snow nose" is acceptable. The lips are close fitting. The upper and lower jaws are broad with large teeth. The incisors meet with a scissors grip. Overshot or undershot is a fault.

Neck, Topline, Body

The neck is strong and moderately arched. The chest is well developed. The body is compactly built but not short coupled. The back is straight and gently sloping to the hips. The loins are hard and well muscled. A long loin that may weaken the back is a fault. The tail is moderately set and follows the line of the spine at the base. The tail is carried over the back when not working. It is not a snap tail or curled tight against the back, nor is it short furred like a fox brush. The Malamute tail is well furred and has the appearance of a waving plume.

Forequarters

The shoulders are moderately sloping; forelegs heavily boned and muscled, straight to the pasterns when viewed from the front. Pasterns are short and strong and slightly sloping when viewed from the side. The feet are of the snowshoe type, tight and deep, with well-cushioned pads, giving a firm, compact appearance. The feet are large, toes tight fitting and well arched. There is a protective growth of hair between the toes. The pads are thick and tough; toenails short and strong.

Hindquarters

The rear legs are broad and heavily muscled through the thighs; stifles moderately bent; hock joints are moderately bent and well let down. When viewed from the rear, the legs stand and move true in line with the movement of the front legs, not too close or too wide. Dewclaws on the rear legs are undesirable and should be removed shortly after puppies are whelped.

Coat

The Malamute has a thick, coarse guard coat, never long and soft. The undercoat is dense, from one to two inches in depth, oily and woolly. The coarse guard coat varies in length as does the undercoat. The coat is relatively short to medium along the sides of the body, with the length of the coat increasing around the shoulders and neck, down the back, over the rump, and in the breeching and plume. Malamutes usually have a shorter and less dense coat during the summer months. The Malamute is shown naturally. Trimming is not acceptable except to provide a clean cut appearance of feet.

Color

The usual colors range from light gray through intermediate shadings to black, sable, and shadings of sable to red. Color combinations are acceptable in undercoats, points, and trimmings. The only solid color allowable is all white. White is always the predominant color on underbody, parts of legs, feet, and part of face markings. A white blaze on the forehead and/or collar or a spot on the nape is attractive and acceptable. The Malamute is mantled, and broken colors extending over the body or uneven splashing are undesirable.

Gait

The gait of the Malamute is steady, balanced, and powerful. He is agile for his size and build. When viewed from the side, the hindquarters exhibit strong rear drive that is transmitted through a well-muscled loin to the forequarters. The forequarters receive the drive from the rear with a smooth reaching stride. When viewed from the front or from the rear, the legs move true in line, not too close or too wide. At a fast trot, the feet will converge toward the centerline of the body. A stilted gait, or any gait that is not completely efficient and tireless, is to be penalized.

Temperament

The Alaskan Malamute is an affectionate, friendly dog, not a "one man" dog. He is a loyal, devoted companion, playful in invitation, but generally impressive by his dignity after maturity.

Summary

IMPORTANT: In judging Malamutes, their function as a sledge dog for heavy freighting in the Arctic must be given consideration above all else. The degree to which a dog is penalized should depend upon the extent to which the dog deviates from the description of the ideal Malamute and the extent to which the particular fault would actually affect the working ability of the dog. The legs of the Malamute must indicate unusual strength and tremendous propelling power. Any indication of unsoundness in legs and feet, front or rear, standing or moving, is to be considered a serious fault. Faults under this provision would be splay-footedness, cowhocks, bad pasterns, straight shoulders, lack of angulation, stilted gait (or any gait that isn't balanced, strong and steady), ranginess, shallowness, ponderousness, lightness of bone, and poor overall proportion.

byhttp://www.akc.org/

Afghan Hound

2007-09-23T18:16:00.000+07:00

General Appearance

The Afghan Hound is an aristocrat, his whole appearance one of dignity and aloofness with no trace of plainness or coarseness. He has a straight front, proudly carried head, eyes gazing into the distance as if in memory of ages past. The striking characteristics of the breed-exotic, or "Eastern," expression, long silky topknot, peculiar coat pattern, very prominent hipbones, large feet, and the impression of a somewhat exaggerated bend in the stifle due to profuse trouserings-stand out clearly, giving the Afghan Hound the appearance of what he is, a king of dogs, that has held true to tradition throughout the ages.

Head

The head is of good length, showing much refinement, the skull evenly balanced with the foreface. There is a slight prominence of the nasal bone structure causing a slightly Roman appearance, the center line running up over the foreface with little or no stop, falling away in front of the eyes so there is an absolutely clear outlook with no interference; the underjaw showing great strength, the jaws long and punishing; the mouth level, meaning that the teeth from the upper jaw and lower jaw match evenly, neither overshot nor undershot. This is a difficult mouth to breed. A scissors bite is even more punishing and can be more easily bred into a dog than a level mouth, and a dog having a scissors bite, where the lower teeth slip inside and rest against the teeth of the upper jaw, should not be penalized. The occipital bone is very prominent. The head is surmounted by a topknot of long silky hair. Ears--The ears are long, set approximately on level with outer corners of the eyes, the leather of the ear reaching nearly to the end of the dog's nose, and covered with long silky hair. Eyes--The eyes are almond-shaped (almost triangular), never full or bulgy, and are dark in color. Nose--Nose is of good size, black in color. Faults--Coarseness; snipiness; overshot or undershot; eyes round or bulgy or light in color; exaggerated Roman nose; head not surmounted with topknot.

Neck

The neck is of good length, strong and arched, running in a curve to the shoulders which are long and sloping and well laid back. Faults--Neck too short or too thick; a ewe neck; a goose neck; a neck lacking in substance.

Body

The back line appearing practically level from the shoulders to the loin. Strong and powerful loin and slightly arched, falling away toward the stern, with the hipbones very pronounced; well ribbed and tucked up in flanks. The height at the shoulders equals the distance from the chest to the buttocks; the brisket well let down, and of medium width. Faults--Roach back, swayback, goose rump, slack loin; lack of prominence of hipbones; too much width of brisket, causing interference with elbows.

Tail

Tail set not too high on the body, having a ring, or a curve on the end; should never be curled over, or rest on the back, or be carried sideways; and should never be bushy.

Legs

Forelegs are straight and strong with great length between elbow and pastern; elbows well held in; forefeet large in both length and width; toes well arched; feet covered with long thick hair; fine in texture; pasterns long and straight; pads of feet unusually large and well down on the ground. Shoulders have plenty of angulation so that the legs are well set underneath the dog. Too much straightness of shoulder causes the dog to break down in the pasterns, and this is a serious fault. All four feet of the Afghan Hound are in line with the body, turning neither in nor out. The hind feet are broad and of good length; the toes arched, and covered with long thick hair; hindquarters powerful and well muscled, with great length between hip and hock; hocks are well let down; good angulation of both stifle and hock; slightly bowed from hock to crotch. Faults--Front or back feet thrown outward or inward; pads of feet not thick enough; or feet too small; or any other evidence of weakness in feet; weak or broken down pasterns; too straight in stifle; too long in hock.

Coat

Hindquarters, flanks, ribs, forequarters, and legs well covered with thick, silky hair, very fine in texture; ears and all four feet well feathered; from in front of the shoulders; and also backwards from the shoulders along the saddle from the flanks and the ribs upwards, the hair is short and close, forming a smooth back in mature dogs - this is a traditional characteristic of the Afghan Hound. The Afghan Hound should be shown in its natural state; the coat is not clipped or trimmed; the head is surmounted (in the full sense of the word) with a topknot of long, silky hair - that is also an outstanding characteristic of the Afghan Hound. Showing of short hair on cuffs on either front or back legs is permissible. Fault--Lack of shorthaired saddle in mature dogs.

Height

Dogs, 27 inches, plus or minus one inch; bitches, 25 inches, plus or minus one inch.

Weight

Dogs, about 60 pounds; bitches, about 50 pounds.

Color

All colors are permissible, but color or color combinations are pleasing; white markings, especially on the head, are undesirable.

Gait

When running free, the Afghan Hound moves at a gallop, showing great elasticity and spring in his smooth, powerful stride. When on a loose lead, the Afghan can trot at a fast pace; stepping along, he has the appearance of placing the hind feet directly in the foot prints of the front feet, both thrown straight ahead. Moving with head and tail high, the whole appearance of the Afghan Hound is one of great style and beauty.

Temperament

Aloof and dignified, yet gay. Faults--Sharpness or shyness.

DOG picture(smile)

2007-09-15T22:11:00.000+07:00

What Is Really In Your Dog's Food?

2007-09-15T22:06:00.000+07:00

All Natural Dog Food
With the many commercially prepared dog foods available on today's market, it is often quite difficult to tell which ones are better than others and why.First of all, you can't judge by advertising which are the good and bad dog foods. Many advertisers spend millions of dollars per year advertising inferior foods. Unfortunately, a good indicator on quality of food is price. Low priced foods are not always, but most often, the lowest quality foods on the market.You want to make sure that the adult dog food you are feeding is 22-25% protein and 15-19% fat. The protein should come from a good quality source. Some dogs such as puppies, large breeds, and active breeds have different protein and fat requirements. Make sure to discuss this with your veterinarian to ensure proper feeding of your dog.

Healthy Dog Food System
In order for you to make an informed decision, you must know which ingredients are better than others. When you look at a food label, the following are the kinds of ingredients that you are looking for: Human Grade Ingredients Chicken meal, Turkey meal, Fish meal, Rice, Potatoes, Lamb meal, Potatoes, Rice, Sunflower Oil, Vegetables and others. Good dog foods first four ingredients should not be grains, but should consist of things like meat and proteins.

You also want to make sure it says chicken meal and not chicken as the primary ingredient. If it says chicken only, this means that the manufacturers are counting the entire chicken toward protein value. This includes beaks, feathers, and feet. With chicken meal, they are only counting the cooked down version of the protein. This will ensure that your dog is getting the appropriate kind of protein and not byproducts. Vitamins and fatty acids are also good ingredients in dog foods. Some examples include Vitamin E, Omega 3 and 6, etc. These are very important for a healthy looking skin and coat. Make sure the dog food is not laden with preservatives.Some of the ingredients that you don't want to see on your dog food label include: Inferior protein which consists of but not limited to variations of the following: Wheat, Corn, Chicken by-products, Soy, Gluten. These ingredients are hard to digest and can cause health problems later on if used for a long period of time. Sugar is another ingredient that you want to stay away from.You are always better off purchasing food from a company that spends time and money field testing their products. You can always be sure that companies such as Purina, the Iams Company (which also includes Eukanuba),Royal Canin, Nutro, Diamond, and Hill's Science Diet are constantly testing their foods to provide the optimum quality ingredients.

These companies offer different grades of food, however, from lower quality to premium quality so make sure that you always read the labels. These are not the only companies by any means who make good quality dog food. The important thing is to read the label, do your research, ask questions of your veterinarians and pet professionals and always be informed. People who work at feed stores are usually a good resource and can help you find good quality pet food. Breeders can also be a good source for finding a quality food for your dog. Dog trainers will also often have a good knowledge of proper nutrition.You should always follow your veterinarian's recommendation on food as well. Many times dogs of certain ages or with certain health conditions need to be on a prescription diet. While these diets are often expensive, they do contain the proper nutrients that dogs in these categories need. Many times owners will switch to a commercial food because of cost or palatability concerns and the dog’s health will go in to a decline. Your veterinary staff know what is best for your particular dog.While it is often confusing, proper dog nutrition is vital to the health and longevity of your dog. By knowing what consists of good quality ingredients and which ingredients to avoid, you can be assured that you will choose the proper food for your dog. As always, if you have questions, ask your veterinary staff for more information.

How To Teach Your Dog To Stop Begging

2007-09-12T22:57:00.001+07:00

Sunday afternoon and your new wife's parents are coming to dinner. You have noticed a bit of resentment from her side of the family but this dinner is going to show them that you are indeed capable of controlling your own household. The house is perfect, the table is beautiful and the food smells and looks delicious. Unfortunately, your Cocker Spaniel thinks so too and is sitting up and begging for morsels off everyone's plate and, if not rewarded, attempting to take the food on his own. You may be king of your castle but this dog’s behavior is making you look like the court jester. How could this have been avoided?Sadly, this is not all the dogs fault and it started a very long time ago. Some horribly misguided individual who was trying to be a good pet owner did this while the pup was still very young and trained the dog for this very behavior.

Want to know who taught your dog this trick? It's a secret so listen carefully... It was YOU. Now before you get upset and quit reading, take a moment to realize that you weren't consciously training your pet for this unwanted behavior and you did it with the best of intentions. No one is blaming you but the behavior is here now and must be dealt with. Knowing how to fix the problem is easiest when knowing from whence it came and by now I am sure you are starting to figure that out.Your dog learned this trick from all those times when, however well meaning you were, the little scraps of food were tossed down to a cute little pup who stared up with sad brown eyes and left you overpowered with guilt as you looked at his dish of dog kibble and your plate with steak and potatoes. Those moments when your kind-hearted generosity over stepped its boundaries and created the begging monster that we find flipping your mother in laws chair over today for a bite of beef tip. All of this could have been prevented by a simple act of will power then but now you have a problem to deal with.So how do we stop this begging fiend? The first step is doing what you should have done when Fido was still a pup and quit rewarding the behavior both by not giving in and not paying attention to it, perhaps even confining the animal to its kennel or a separate room during meal or snack times if this is difficult. This suggestion is especially useful if you have young children in the household who tend to reward the animal with the foods that they do not favor. Make sure everyone in the household knows not to share their meals with the dog and follows this rule no matter what the circumstance. When the dog isn't rewarded in the manner he is accustomed to, the real battle will begin. He will decide that he isn't receiving enough attention and begin to whine and howl loudly in complaint of the treatment. Do not give in or the battle is lost and will be harder in the next round. The process will take consistent work for several weeks and one weak moment of slipping the dog a treat just to be nice can ruin all the prior training so standing your ground and enforcing the rule of not giving meal time treats to the dog is a must.Some useful ideas for stopping the begging are appropriate to mention here. One great one is to feed the dog at the same time the rest of the family eats, preferably in a separate room. This way the dog has its own meal and will not feel the need to take food from others in the household. If this is not an option, perhaps give your pet a toy to play with, thus keeping them occupied throughout mealtime. No matter how you choose to handle the situation, Consistent and rigid training is the only effective way to correct it. Every member and guest of your household must enforce the rules or all your work will be of no avail. However, if you follow these rules, you will be blessed with a healthier pet, a happier household and pride in your well-mannered canine friend.

How To Teach Your Dog To Fetch

2007-09-12T22:56:00.001+07:00

The time has come to have a bit of fun with your pet. You step out the door, unhook the leash and throw a tennis ball to the other end of the yard... And your dog looks up at you like you just lost your mind. What went wrong? Looks like its time to head back to the training ground for Fetch lessons.Fetch is a simple command and is taught easily to puppies but is not beyond the grasp of older dogs as well. In this simple form of a rudimentary game, fetch is primarily used as an entertainment with a primary purpose of creating bonding time between dog and trainer. In more advanced forms, it is used in police dog training for such things as weapon recovery and drug location. So how do we go about teaching this behavior?One of the basic methods of training the fetch command is using two toys in a bait and switch routine. The toys must be identical and something the dog enjoys playing with. Starting with the dog on a leash or a halter, hide one of the toys on your person and throw the other a short distance after showing it to your pet. Release the dog from the leash and say "fetch" or whatever cue word you choose. The dog will chase after the toy and, most likely, will pick it up. When the animal starts to return with the first toy, produce the hidden one.The animal will likely drop the toy they are carrying in favor of the new toy. When this happens, wait for the dog to return to you and be reattached to the leash before throwing the new toy. After throwing the new toy, say "fetch" while releasing the animal to give chase. While your dog is chasing the new toy, run and retrieve the first toy. Repeat this process several times using the fetch command. For dogs that are not toy motivated, try adding a bit of flavoring to the game by way of some meat spread or some food reward when the behavior is carried out properly. Toys such as the Kong toys are great for this as they can be stuffed with all manner of pleasant surprises for your pet.Another method is the forced retrieve. This is accomplished by throwing the toy a short distance and manually walking the dog to the object and waiting for them to pick it up. Reward them generously for finding and picking up the object. In further stages, have a partner walk the dog out for the pick up and then have them walked back to you with the item. Again reward them generously for making the retrieve. A few of the common tips given by many pet trainers are quite useful in this area. One of the first is not to go for long distance throwing. Short throws are easier for the animal to keep a visual on and require less concentration. They also make for less work for the trainer should the dog fail to adequately grasp the concept. Another point is to reserve fetch toys for fetch. If you let your dog play with the toy all the time, they lose their novelty and the dogs drive to chase them will be greatly diminished. If you make the dog wait to play with these toys then they are a special treat and the dog will see the toy itself as a reward.

Another tip is to be certain to hold the animal a moment before allowing them to chase the object. This gives them a moment to clearly focus on the objective and to build a stronger desire to retrieve the object they seek. Thus, when they are released, they spring to the object in a flurry of motion and grasp it up easily. Another wonderful tip is to avoid the use of sticks as fetch toys. They are hard on the animal's mouth and may contain parasites or poisonous substances, not to mention confusing the animal if you play near an area with tree growth.With these simple techniques and tips mastered, you are ready to take to the park with your Frisbee, tennis ball or throwing dummy and enjoy a great afternoon of exercise and bonding with your pet.

Teach An Old Dog New Tricks

2007-09-12T22:54:00.000+07:00

A dog of any age can learn new tricks. Your dog should be familiar with the basics - sit, lie down, and stay, as these are excellent building blocks of new tricks.To teach "sit," have a yummy treat in your fingers and place your hand near your dog's nose. Say, "sit," and move the treat over your dog's head toward his tail. As he follows the treat, he should sit naturally. When he successfully completes this behavior, immediately give him the treat as well as verbal praise in an excited voice, saying something such as " good dog!" When you are first teaching this behavior, always give the food treat and the verbal praise. When your dog seems to be associating the word sit with this behavior, gradually wean him off the treats. You may want to train your dog to a release command such as "okay!" so he knows when he can discontinue each behavior. As with all training, you should teach "sit" in short (10 minutes or less) sessions followed by free play.To teach "lie down," first get your dog in the sitting position. Hold a yummy treat in your fingers and place your hand near your dog's nose. Say, "lie down," and bring the treat straight down to the floor. As your dog follows the treat, he should naturally place himself in the down position. As soon as he gets in the proper position, reward him with the treat and verbal praise. If you are using a release command such as "okay!" you can now use it to let your dog know it is okay to stop lying down. As with all commands, as he begins to associate the behavior with the verbal command, begin to wean him from the food reward.To teach "stay," place your dog in either the sitting or down position. Grab a yummy treat in one hand and ask your dog to stay while placing your other hand with the palm open in front of his nose. When your dog stays for one or two seconds, give him the treat and verbal praise, and use your release command. You will want to gradually increase the length of the stay.Once your dog has these building blocks firmly under his belt, you can begin to teach him new and exciting tricks. One of the most popular tricks to teach is "play dead." To do this, ask your dog to lie down. Teach him to roll on his back by holding a yummy treat in your hand in front of his nose and moving it in a small circle while giving the command "play dead." As his nose follows the treat, his body should follow until he is on his back. Reward him with the treat and verbal praise. With practice, your dog will be able to associate the command with the behavior and you can wean him off the food reward.Another popular trick is "shake." To teach your dog to shake, first get him into the sitting position. Have a treat ready and say, "shake." Gently grab right behind his paw and lift it into the shake position. Give him the treat.

You will need to repeat this step several times until he learns that he will get the treat by lifting his paw by himself. While he is learning "shake," reward even the smallest attempts at getting into position by himself with food and praise. Eventually he will associate the command "shake" and lifting his paw with positive rewards. Another fun trick is "bow." This is a very natural position for a dog to be in. To teach this behavior, get your dog in the sitting position. Have a treat in your fingers, hold it in front of his nose and say, "bow." Push the treat straight toward your dog's chest. As his nose is following the treat, he should naturally get himself into the bow position. When he does, reward him with the treat and verbal praise. As with all tricks, eventually wean him from the treat.Tricks are fun to teach your dog and it gives him mental stimulation while enhancing the time you spend with him. There are many books available on teaching new tricks to your dog and many dog trainers offer tricks and games classes. Keep training sessions short and fun, and always use positive reinforcement. In no time, your dog will be entertaining your friends and family.

How To Teach Your Dog To Heel

2007-09-12T22:53:00.000+07:00

One of the first commands your dog learns should be the "HEEL" command. This command will be helpful in insuring the safety of your pet while out in public and will make you look like the owner of a well-mannered and lovable pet. To add to the beauty of all this, the command itself is quite simple and almost any dog can learn the meaning of the command with 30 minutes or so of effort. So what is the function of the "heel" command? This one word command tells your dog that the animal is to walk directly at your side, not before or after you. This provides safety for your pet in public places as well as for yourself. The command keeps your pet at your side rather than running through the picnic blankets of park goers and, if you own a larger more menacing breed, makes you seem a less approachable target to would-be criminal elements.Wow, that sounds great... How do I teach my pet? Well, it isn't as difficult as you might think. There are two general methods of training. One uses only positive reinforcement and the other uses a mixture of both positive and negative tactics.

First we will discuss the positive reinforcement method.In this method, you must first place your dog on a short leash and procure several of the dogs favorite food treats, a few pieces of dry kibble from the animals dog food is normally suitable. Decide which side you prefer your dog to walk on and train from this side in the following manner. With the dog by your side, facing in the same direction, place a treat in your hand next to your hip. In a firm, yet gentle voice, say "heel" and walk forward. When the dog responds by stepping with you, praise them and reward them with the treat. Remember to be consistent and not to reward before the action is carried out, yet always reward for a good performance.With a lot of patience, this method will work well for most dogs and results in a close bonding of the pet to the owner. However, some dogs are just naturally harder to train, just like some people. If you are blessed with one of these independent and strong willed pets then you might have to avail yourself of a different method of training, which was mentioned earlier in this discussion.To use the second training method, you must start with a slightly longer leash of approximately seven to ten feet. Allow your pet a few moments to explore the boundaries of the leash and understand how it works. Then call the animal to your side and position yourself as before with the animal next to you, facing the same direction. In a firm voice, say "heel" and walk forward. At this time, the dog will probably not walk with you. It will, instead, begin to explore most likely running in a different direction than where you are leading.

To correct this behavior, turn in the opposite direction of the pets' direction of travel and take a few steps forward, quite briskly, as you raise the leash to shoulder height and let it play out behind you. The result of this action will be seen as the animal quickly reaches the end of the leash and their forward momentum teaches them the age old physics lesson that "Every action has an equal and opposite reaction." The animal will quite quickly learn that to disobey the heel command results in a discomforting feeling from the sudden stop at the end of the leash and, after a short while, will learn to obey the command. When the pet reaches the state of obedience, be sure to reward them with lots of positive reinforcements, such as play time and treats, along with rich verbal praise.Whichever of these methods you choose in the training of your pet, the "heel" command is sure to go a long way in making you a much happier pet owner who will be proud to show your pet anywhere. Remember to train with love, patience and consistency and your pet will reward you with loyalty and many, many years of companionship.

Is This Your Dog?

2007-09-03T21:59:00.000+07:00

When we talk about hypoallergenic dogs, we mean that they have a less or reduced tendency to cause allergies or allergic reaction among allergy sufferers.

It has been estimated that about 10% of the US population is allergic to animals (American College of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology). Symptoms of the reactions can range from watery eyes to dangerous asthma attacks.

The problem is not with the pet's hair. It is the dander, or microscopic scales of dead skin (similar to, but much smaller than the dandruff on the human scalp) which pets are constantly shedding that is the cause. They are so tiny that you seldom know that they are circulating in the air or laying on the furniture and carpets because they are so small.
Here is a list of Hypoallergenic Dogs. If I have missed any I do apologize.

· American Hairless Terrier
· Basenji
· Border Terrier
· Cairn Terrier
· Chinese Crested (hairless)
· Havanese
· Kerry Blue Terrier
· Maltese
· Miniature Schnauzer
· Portuguese Water Dog
· Shih-Tzu
· Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier
· Spanish Water Dog
· Standard Poodle
· Standard Schnauzer
· Tibetan Terrier
· Toy Poodle
· West Highland White Terrier
· Wirehaired Fox Terrier
· Yorkshire TerrierPlease remember that no dog is 100% hypoallergenic and also that allergic sufferers react differently to each separate breed of dog such as myself, the news is good. They are considered good for allergy sufferers, with a relatively low dander (ranked number 7). However you need to be reminded that one person’s allergies may vary greatly from another person. It is always advisable to visit the home of the dog you wish to have, before you bring it home. I hope that you found this article of use to you

Tips for a Dog Friendly Vacation

2007-09-03T21:57:00.000+07:00

A tragedy that happens more often than many people realize is a dog being separated from its family on vacation. This not only can ruin the vacation you’ve been looking forward to all year, but you may never see your friend again. Never let your dog off his leash when you are out of your car, even if your dog is used to being off leash when you go on walks at home. A dog that gets frightened can run off and get lost, or run into traffic and be hurt.

Your dog should have identification secured on its collar. This should include a phone number you can be reached while away from home. If you take a cell phone with you, that should be the number on the ID, and perhaps your e-mail address as well. Your home phone number won’t do any good on the ID tag if no one is there to answer the phone.

Traveling involves stress for humans, but also for dogs. It is a good idea to bring along familiar items from home, the dog’s bed, or a blanket he likes to lie on, toys, treats—anything that makes the experience seem more like being at home can reduce the level of anxiety for your dog.

It’s easy to forget things during the rush to get ready to leave. Make a list of absolute necessities for your dog: their food, their food and water bowls, and any vitamins or medications they are supposed to have. Check the items off the list before you leave the house. You might consider portioning out your dog’s food into plastic bags for each day, so you do not have to bring along a large bag of dog food. But—be sure to bring a little more than you think you will need. You should feed your dog according to his normal routine at home, with the one exception that you might want to consider giving him his largest meal when you have stopped for the day or arrive at your destination. Eating a large meal and then getting back in the car could result in the dog vomiting when you get back on the road.

Do You Know About Boxer Dogs?

2007-09-02T11:53:00.000+07:00

Boxer Dogs Information - What Are Boxer Dogs?

Boxer dogs are great all around dog breeds, distinguished canine and the coolest, most lovable dog out there! Boxer Dogs are medium-built and strong breed that are so named because of its habit of standing on the hind legs to begin a fight and boxing with the front paws.

By nature, Boxer dogs are working dogs. Throughout history it has been trained as:

- hunting dog

- police dog

- seeing

-eye dog for the blind

- guard dog- circus dog

- courier dog on the battlefields during World War I and World War II

- fighting dog in the once popular sport of dog fighting.

The American Kennel Club (AKC) categorizes dogs into 7 groups of herding, hound, non-sporting, sporting, terrier, toy and working. And the largest breed registered in the working dog category is the Boxer.

No doubt the Boxer Dogs make for great utility dog but the greatest advantage to owning one is that Boxer Dogscan be your most outstanding companion on four legs and great source of personal fulfillment.

By the way, the AKC registered over 150 different breeds totaling nearly one million dogs in 2003. To put that in perspective, the animal shelters in America rescue up to 12 million homeless dogs and cats every year and 25% of these are purebreds.

Devoted and glad owners of Boxer Dogs have come up with a long list of attributes and traits of their favorite pet that include:

Alert

Boisterous

Boundless energy

Brave

Canine clown

Courageous

Devil dog

Devoted

Dignified

Exuberance

Family dog

Fearless

Friendly

Hearing dog

Highly trainable

Intelligent

Intuitive

Keen judge of character

Loving

Loyal

Patient with children

People dog

Poor swimmer

Playful

Quick learner

Self-assured

Smart

Soulful

Spirited

Stoical

Vigilant

Working dog

Wonderful pet

And you can add to the list…

The Boxer Dog's history could be traced back to feudal Germany, where it was a small hunting dog that could tenaciously hold onto a bull, boar, or bear till the master arrived. It was also a utility dog for peasants and shop owners, and even a performing dog in circus. The Boxer Dogs as we know it today is a bigger breed – a mixture of the German Boxer with a taller, more elegant English import. The era of this modern Boxer began in the 1880s and became really popular in the United States in the late 1930s-1940s.

Handsome dog: Within the canine world, Boxer Dogs are medium-sized dog standing at 21 to 25 inches at the shoulder for a full-grown female, and weighs some 50 to 65 pounds. The male can be taller and 15 pounds heavier.

It has a striking good look with chiseled head, square jaw and muscled body that make for a very handsome silhouette.

It has a striking good look with chiseled head, square jaw and muscled body that make for a very handsome silhouette.

The shortened muzzle makes hot and humid weather uncomfortable for the Boxer Dogs.

The coat is short, hard and smooth, and possesses a natural sheen that can be enhanced with rubdowns with a chamois cloth (especially after a bath).

The short coat cannot protect him well from extreme elements of the weather and thus Boxer Dogs should definitely not be kept outdoors. It is a housedog, sensitive to temperature extremes, does not enjoy the draft, summer heat or cold.

Boxer Dogs come in attractive basic colors of fawn and brindle. The fawn varies from a tawny tan to an especially beautiful stag red. The brindle (clearly defined black stripes on a fawn background) can be sparse, in between or dense.

A beauty standard for Boxer Dogs is that their white markings or “flash” should add to their look and may not cover more than one-third of the entire body. Some predominantly or all-white puppies (known as “check”) may be born in a litter.

In the US, however, the American Boxer Club members are pledged not to register, sell or use these “whites” for breeding so as to retain the beauty of the true fawn and brindle colors in the breed.

Personality-wise, Boxer is a cool dog that will not bark without cause. Its expressive face – the furrowed forehead and dark, soulful eyes - is a charming quality that sets the Boxer apart from other breeds.

It can mimic the moods of its master and adopting one could bring you 9 to 11 years of joyful companionship. In exceptional cases the Boxer can live up to 15 years.

Boxer Dogs As Pet

Pet Boxer Dogs, although low-maintenance, require your consistent attention, exercise, human interaction, consistent obedience training and lots of love. You cannot leave them to their own design for too long or they get lonely, bored and into trouble.

Being a big and strong dog as well as a highly intelligent one, Boxer Dogs need both physical and mental stimulations to keep them even-tempered and dignified while still keeping their impish spirit and fearless courage in tact.

All the best!!!

Warm regards

No Bite: How To Teach Your Puppy or Dog To Stop Biting

2007-09-02T11:52:00.001+07:00

Bringing home a new puppy or dog is always an exciting time and should not be ruined by some of the behaviors that may exist.

Introducing a new dog to your home should be a fun experience for both you and your dog. One of the first challenges you should look after is discouraging inappropriate behavior by your dog, or to put it more positively, you should be encouraging appropriate behavior by your dog. One very common behavior in most breeds is that puppies love to bite and mouth almost everything around them in their new surroundings. Puppies instinctively bite and mouth each other puppies when playing, and they will do this humans as well because the see them as just another member of their pack. As puppies and dogs have thick skin under their fur, they really don’t feel any great pain from another dog biting and mouthing them. Humans, however, do not have the same thick skin, so it is important to teach your puppy not use their sharp teeth on humans for any reason.

The first step in training your puppy to stop biting is to reduce its natural biting reflex. Puppies normally learn to stop biting from their mothers and other puppies in their litter, but since your puppy now depends on you to teach it the things it needs to know, you will be the one to teach it. Biting might seem cute and harmless when your puppy is still very young, but it won’t be cute or harmless when your dog is mature and much stronger. It is for this reason that puppies should be taught to control and stop their biting before they reach the age of four months.
When puppies play as they love to, they are constantly biting and mouthing each other. If your puppy is given the opportunity to socialize and play with other puppies and older dogs that are already socialized, this will greatly help to inhibit the biting reflex. If one puppy becomes too rough when playing, the rest of the group will punish him for that inappropriate behavior. By using this type of socialization, your dog will learn to control its biting reflex.

There are other benefits to proper socialization as well, including teaching your dog to not be fearful of other dogs, and to work off their excess energy and get exercise. Puppies that are given the opportunity to play with other puppies learn important social skills and most often to become better members of the human family they are part of. Puppies that get less socialization tend to be more destructive, more hyperactive and will often exhibit other problem behaviors.
Puppies that lack socialization will often develop fearful and aggressive behaviors. Dogs will often react aggressively to a new situation. This is more often the case especially if they are not properly socialized. The most effective way for a dog to become a good member of its community as well as the household it lives in, is to be socialized with other people, especially children. Dogs will usually make a distinction between their owners and other people, and between children and adults. Because of this, it is important to introduce your puppy to both children and adults.

Generally you should try and expose your puppy to young children as possible. Before it reaches four months of age is best. The main reason for this is that mothers of young children may be unwilling to allow their children to approach or be approached by large dogs or older puppies. This factor will be especially true with large breed dogs, or with breeds of dogs that have a reputation for aggressive behavior.

A very effective way to teach your puppy not to bite is to teach it to trust and respect you. This will be a very important thing in all aspects of training your dog and being able to correct any bad behaviors that may develop.

To gain trust and respect from your dog, you should use positive reinforcement. If your puppy bites you or something you don’t want it to, distract it. Offer your dog a chew toy or bone or something that you want it to chew on. Then reward your puppy when it does chew on the ‘chewable’ item. Make sure your dog knows when it does something that you want it to do. It is important to never hit or slap the puppy.

Punishment through physical means is the most sure fire way to breakdown any trust and respect that your dog has for you. Trust and respect must form the basis of an effective training program. Scolding or hitting a dog will not stop it from biting – it will simply scare it and confusion.

Training a puppy not to bite early on is a key part of any training program. Biting behaviors that are not corrected when your dog is young and impressionable will only get worse as it gets older. It may have seemed like harmless behavior when your puppy was a young dog, but biting by older dog can be dangerous and destructive behavior.

Ring Worm in Dogs

2007-09-02T11:51:00.001+07:00

Ringworm is one of the most common diseases in pets, especially dogs. Unlike its name, Ringworm is not a worm but fungi called Dermatophytes that thrives on dead tissues present on skin surface and follows circular path to spread infection.

Ringworm is an infectious skin disease and your pet usually picks it up from his surroundings like kennels, rodent burrows or from other animals who are already infected. There are about 35 species of ringworm that can affect dogs. The most common is ‘Mircosporum Canis’, which accounts for majority of ringworm cases

One symptom of ringworms in dogs is a lesion on the skin that looks like a rapidly growing circular patch of broken hair. The patch may look inflamed and may appear to have dandruff-like flakes on it. The most common areas where it can occur are face, ear tips, tails and paws.
If you find any of these symptoms, take your pet to the veterinarian. He may diagnose the disease by plucking hairs from the infected area and examining it under ultra violet light. On finding fungi traits, he may advise some anti fungal pills or topical medications for your pet
Humans need to take some precautions since ringworm is an infectious disease. Be sure to keep kids away from an infected pet, and adults should wear gloves when handling any items that have come in contact with the animal. Also keep your dog neat and clean and clip his hairs short since longer hairs promote unhygienic conditions.

Although, ringworm is a mild disorder the problems due to its infectious nature and slow recovery time can be problematic.

Problem Dogs - Dealing with a Nuisance

2007-08-30T20:43:00.000+07:00

You love your dog, but sometimes he can be a real pain! If you know what might be causing his annoying behavior, though, you might be able to do something about it.

Digging

Some dogs just love to dig holes! Their reasons for doing so, however, will vary depending on the breed and the situation. Your dog might be digging holes out of sheer boredom. If you suspect this might be the case, simply exercise your dog more frequently. He'll be too tired to dig. Maybe your male dog is digging in order to get to the female dog that is in heat next door. In this case, having your dog neutered will solve the problem. If your dog is digging holes to bury items or just for the sake of digging, then set aside one area in which he can engage in that behavior. Protect the rest of your yard by spraying a non-toxic dog repellant in and around the off-limit areas.

Barking

A dog that barks all the time, for no apparent reason, is not only a nuisance to the owner, but can be a nuisance to an entire neighborhood as well. The most common reason for consistent barking is boredom and loneliness. Have your neighbors told you that your dog barks all day long while you're at work? If so, then you should consider enrolling your dog in doggie day care. There will be plenty of activities to keep him busy all day long and he'll have lots of other dogs to play with. If day care isn't an option, make sure that your dog has plenty of toys to keep him occupied while you're away from home. You might also try leaving the radio or television on while you're gone - hearing human voices might help your dog feel less lonely.

Destructive Chewing

Most dogs engage in destructive chewing for one of three reasons: teething, attention or boredom. If your puppy is chewing up everything he can sink his little teeth into, there's a good chance that he is simply teething. Make sure to provide the teething puppy with lots of chewable toys so that he won't go after your shoes or other household objects. If your dog isn't teething, then perhaps he's engaging in this destructive behavior in order to get your attention. If you don't spend a lot of time with your dog, but will chase him around for hours if he has your favorite shoe in his mouth, then your dog will understand very quickly that this is an effective way to get you to "play" with him. Spend more time with your dog and you may get him to stop chewing up things around the house. Bored dogs are also inclined to become chewers. If there's nothing or no one to play with, they'll make their own fun at the expense of your furniture and clothing. Provide your dog with plenty of toys and activities to keep him occupied.

Jumping

You might think its adorable when your big dog greets you at the door by jumping up on you and licking your face, but most of your guests probably won't get the same kick out of this behavior. When a small puppy jumps on you it's cute because you can control him and he's not heavy enough to knock you over. Not so with adult dogs. Having a large dog hurl himself at you is not an experience that most people, even dog lovers, enjoy. So, how do you get your dog to stop jumping as a way of greeting you and your guests? Consistent training is really the only way. Ideally, you should begin discouraging this behavior when the dog is still a puppy. If you are unable to get your dog to stop jumping up onto people, then a stint at obedience school is highly recommended.

Disobedience

Most of the time, dogs disobey their owners because they're not sure what is expected of them. In order to get your dog to be consistently obedient, you have to spend lot of time training him. Obedience training should start when the dog is still a puppy and be reinforced throughout the years. Some owners can train their dogs without any outside assistance; however, most will need to enroll themselves and their dog in a local obedience school. You and your dog will enjoy your time together much more once you can communicate effectively with each other.

Why Does Your Dog Do That?

2007-08-30T20:38:00.000+07:00

This question seems to resound around the earth among new pet owners everywhere. Thousands of people at this very moment are looking at some odd behavior and asking themselves just why is the dog doing this? Let's look at a few of the common behaviors and see if we can understand the reasons behind them.

The first is the age old problem of garbage can raiding. This behavior is quite annoying as it creates a huge and unsightly mess to clean up. It involves an animal willfully tipping a trash receptacle and then going thru the contents, leaving a lot of destruction and debris in their wake. Why does Fido do this? Well, the simple answer is hunger. Your dog most likely smelled something delicious in the trash can, like perhaps a carryout box or even a piece of meat you threw out of the refrigerator. This problem can usually be resolved by getting rid of odiferous objects such as table scraps in a separate sealed bag or by using a more stable trashcan. If the outdoor receptacle seems to be the common target, have an enclosure built around it to keep the animal out.

Another common mystery to dog owners is the eating of grass. Dogs are naturally carnivorous, rather than herbivorous, it is hard to understand how an animal would bypass a plate of steak to go mow the yard with its teeth. The answer lies in the animal's own stomach. Your pet may have a bellyache from the plate of steak you gave him this afternoon. Dogs eat vegetation when they feel poorly, especially with illnesses related to digestion. This is probably not a danger to your pet unless your yard has been chemically treated. However, it is advisable to keep an eye on your pets eating habits and behaviors. If the animal displays signs of poor health a veterinary visit would be in order.

Another habit human companions of our canine friends find disgusting is litter box raiding. The scientific name for this situation is Coprophagy but even without the fancy word, we all know exactly what we mean here, if you let the dog in a house with a litter box, you can bet the dog will find it within no time. But why does your dog insist on eating what the cat left behind? There are many theories as to why our dogs do this. Some medical conditions can cause the symptom to occur. Some of these medical conditions include pancreatic of intestinal dysfunction, starvation or even severe malnutrition due to advanced infections of parasite such as worms.

Others believe that the eating of feces may be a way for dogs to replenish their B vitamin supply or a hold over from evolution. Still others claim it is a psychological condition caused by nervousness or a guilt complex instilled by an owner who was too harsh in housebreaking. No matter what the reason for it, the easiest way to prevent it is to keep the animals yard and walking area free of feces of any type including their own. Aside from this, walk your dog on a leash so as to have control should they find something you missed. Also put the cats litter box up out of the dogs reach but still accessible to the cat or get a litter box with a hood system. A visit to the veterinarian would also be in order as this condition may be symptomatic of various ailments and could also be a contributing factor in the animal developing a parasite infestation.

Hopefully these short insights into your dogs mind have given you a bit more information on what makes your dog tick. By understanding how your dog thinks, it is much easier to train them to perform or quit performing various actions as the case may be. For almost every behavior imaginable, someone else has experienced it and wrote about it on the Internet. If your dog is doing something you just can't comprehend or that makes you think your pet has lost its mind, do a bit of research and maybe you will find the dog's motivation and how to cure that problem that's driving you mad or at least satisfy your curiosity so you don't have to ask, Why does Fido do that?

Selecting Dog Food

2007-08-30T20:17:00.000+07:00

All Natural Dog Food
Commercial dog food is a great convenience for busy caregivers. You want the best for your companion animals, but with a bewildering array of foods and claims to choose from, how do you decide what's best for your animals?

Standards For Dog Food Ingredients
The dog food industry is huge and extremely profitable ($25 billion a year in revenue worldwide). While manufacturers may appear to have the best interests of your companion animals at heart, they are generally more concerned about their stock prices and bottom lines. This may be especially true of dog food manufacturers owned by large, diverse, multinational parent companies. What this means to you is that if an inexpensive ingredient is available to replace a costlier one, many companies will make the substitution to save money. A few companies pride themselves on their "fixed formulas," meaning that they always use the same ingredients. This may be good ... if the ingredients are of acceptable quality to begin with.

Dog food may be labeled as "complete and balanced" if it meets the standards set by a group called AAFCO, the Association of American Feed Control Officials. These standards were formulated in the early 1990s by panels of canine and feline nutrition experts. A food may be certified in two ways: (1) by meeting AAFCO's published standards for content ("Nutrient Profiles"), or (2) by passing feeding tests or trials. While most researchers agree that feeding tests are superior in assessing the nutritional adequacy of a food, clinical experience as well as scientific studies have confirmed that even foods that pass feeding trials may still be inadequate for long-term maintenance. Also keep in mind that the standards set only "minimums" and "maximums," not "optimums." Commercial foods are designed to be adequate for the average animal, but not all foods will be suitable for an individual animal's variable needs.

Dog Food Problems
Commercial dog foods and some dog food ingredients have been implicated in a number of diseases in companion animals. Allergic skin disease, obesity, food intolerance, inflammatory bowel disease, chronic ear infections, cystitis (bladder inflammation), bladder and kidney stones, certain heart diseases, pancreatitis, feline hyperthyroidism, hip dysplasia, canine mammary cancer, bloat, and diabetes all have nutritional components - that is, nutritional factors are suspected or known to play a role in inducing or perpetuating these diseases. Thus, it is crucial that we, as caregivers, pay close attention to what we are feeding our animals and how they are reacting to the food.

One potential problem with commercial dog food is pesticide residues, antibiotics, and molds contained in dog food ingredients. Meat from sick animals may be loaded with drugs, some of which are known to pass unchanged through all the processing done to create a finished dog food (such as penicillin and pentobarbital). Between 1995 and 1999, there were two major recalls of dry dog food by different manufacturers due to mold contamination of grain ingredients. Some fungal toxins are very dangerous. The second recalled food killed more than 20 dogs.

Another problem is the unpredictable quality of common dog food ingredients. By-products, by-product meal, meat and bone meal, and similar ingredients can vary widely in their nutrient composition. Bone meals in the U.S. have had a lead contamination problem for many years. The protein in a meal containing a large amount of bone may be poorly digestible and fail to provide adequate nutrition, even though chemical analysis will reveal an acceptable amount of amino acids.

One of the biggest problems with commercial foods is the processing they undergo. Meals are rendered (cooked) at moderate to high temperatures for hours. Extruded foods pass through a steam heat/high pressure device that allows them to "puff" into kibble shapes when they come out of the machine. Even though they move through the extruder quickly, the extreme conditions may alter or damage some nutrients.

Dog food manufacturers are aware of these factors, and most add sufficient extra vitamins, minerals and other nutrients to compensate for losses in the manufacturing process. However, because the AAFCO profiles set only minimums for many nutrients, tests have shown that some minerals may be added to the food in excessive amounts.

Dog Food Label "Rules"

- The 95% Rule: If the product says "Salmon Cat Food" or "Beef Dog Food," 95% of the product must be the named ingredients. A product with a combination label, such as "Beef and Liver for Dogs," must contain 95% beef and liver, and there must be more beef than liver, since beef is named first.

- The 25% or "Dinner" Rule: Ingredients named on the label must comprise at least 25% of the product but less than 95%, when there is a qualifying "descriptor" term like "dinner," "entree," "formula," "platter," "nuggets," etc. In "Beef Dinner for Dogs," beef may or may not be the primary ingredient. If two ingredients are named ("Beef and Turkey Dinner for Dogs"), the two ingredients must total 25%, there must be more of the first ingredient (beef) than the second (turkey), and there must be at least 3% of the lesser ingredient.

- the 3% or "With" Rule: A product may be labeled "Cat Food with Salmon" if it contains at least 3% of the named ingredient. The "Flavor" Rule: A food may be labeled "Turkey Flavor Cat Food" even if the food does not contain such ingredients, as long as there is a "sufficiently detectable" amount of flavor. This may be derived from meals, by-products, or "digests" of various parts from the animal species indicated on the label. Source: Animal Protection Institute

10 Things In Your Home That Can Kill Your Dog

2007-08-30T20:09:00.000+07:00

Dogs are very curious animals and as omnivores and natural scavengers, can get into and eat just about anything. However, there are many toxic substances found in your home that could potentially kill your dog. The following is a list of ten common household substances that you should make sure to keep out of your dog's reach.

1) Antifreeze: Many people do not realize it, but common antifreeze kills many pets each year. It smells and tastes very sweet to your dog and is very appealing to him. Ethylene glycol is toxic however, and each winter, many animals are killed by it. Symptoms of toxicity include seizures, vomiting, stumbling and lethargy leading to kidney failure. Make sure to keep your antifreeze out of your dog's reach. If you suspect that your dog has ingested antifreeze, take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.

2) Chocolate: Chocolate contains a substance called the obromine which is toxic to dogs. Baking chocolate and dark chocolate is especially dangerous. While it usually takes a somewhat large amount of chocolate to kill a dog, poisoning and death does occur with smaller amounts ingested. Signs of chocolate poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, increased urination, and increased activity. This can progress to seizures and unusual heart rhythms. Call your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your dog has eaten chocolate.

3) Bleach: As you might imagine, household bleach is toxic to dogs. Keep all products containing bleach out of your dog's reach. Symptoms of bleach poisoning include drooling, vomiting, and abdominal pain. Do NOT induce vomiting if you suspect your dog has ingested bleach and contact your veterinarian immediately.

4) Tylenol: As little as two regular strength Tylenol tablets can kill a small dog. Dogs lack the proper liver enzymes to break down acetaminophen. Signs of toxicity include drooling, lethargy, and abdominal pain. If you suspect your dog has ingested Tylenol, call your veterinarian immediately.

5) Watch Batteries: If your dog ingests a watch battery, it can cause a potentially fatal ulceration in the stomach within 12 hours. All other alkaline batteries are toxic to dogs as well. Symptoms of toxicity include drooling, lack of appetite, vomiting, and lethargy. If you suspect your dog has ingested a watch battery, contact your vet immediately.

6) Moth Balls: Moth balls are very dangerous to dogs. They contain an insecticide that causes central nervous system excitement and seizures. When metabolized, ingestion of moth balls can lead to liver failure. Symptoms of poisoning by moth balls include vomiting and seizures. If your dog has consumed moth balls, do NOT induce vomiting. Seek veterinary care immediately.

7) Fabric Softeners and other detergents: All sorts of household detergents are toxic to dogs at one level or another, but fabric softeners fall into the highly toxic category. Signs of toxicity include vomiting, lethargy, burns to the mouth, drooling, muscle weakness, and even coma. Do NOT induce vomiting if your dog has ingested any detergent. Contact your veterinarian immediately.

8) Mouthwash: Mouthwash can contain boric acid which is highly toxic to dogs. Symptoms of poisoning by mouthwash include vomiting, drooling, seizures, and coma. You should take your dog to the veterinarian immediately if you suspect poisoning by mouthwash or other household item containing boric acid like contact lens solution or denture cleaner.

9) Peach Pits: With most fruits, the pits and the seeds are toxic to dogs. Signs of poisoning include drooling, vomiting, and lethargy. If you suspect your dog has eaten a peach pit or the pit or seeds of any fruit, take him to the veterinarian immediately.

10) Household Plants: Many common and popular household plants are highly toxic to dogs. A partial list of toxic plants includes poinsettias, lilies, ferns, devil's ivy, aloe, and ivy. Symptoms of poisoning due to ingestion of toxic plants include vomiting and central nervous system excitement. Many of these plants are fatal if ingested. Please contact your veterinarian immediately if you suspect your dog has eaten a toxic houseplant.

With diligence on our part, we can help prevent our dogs from getting into substances that are toxic to them. Many veterinary school websites offer lists of things that are toxic to dogs and what you should do if your dog ingests such things. As always, if you think your dog may have eaten something dangerous, contact your veterinarian immediately or take your dog to the closest emergency clinic.

A nation of dog lovers?

2007-08-28T22:43:00.000+07:00

Here in the UK, we like to think of ourselves as a nation of dog lovers. But according to a study commissioned by the Dogs Trust Charity, local authorities kill 150 stray dogs every week in the UK because their owners cannot be traced or a new home can’t be found.
As dog lovers, what can we do to make a difference and prevent this from happening? It seems like such a huge feat to overcome such a massive number, but we can make a difference; perhaps just a small difference, but it all counts.
According to the Dogs Trust, the most effective way of reducing these numbers is through the use of neutering and micro chipping.
Neutering
Neutering is an extremely common procedure that your vet will carry out under general anaesthetic. In the majority of cases, your dog will be ready to come home with you on the same day and will be fully recovered within a few weeks.
Many of the dogs picked up as strays by Local Authorities are un-neutered males. Often, they will pick up on the scent of an in-season bitch, and they will escape to try and find her. Bitches may also be frustrated when in season and will look to find a mate.
Neutering can also have a positive effect on the health and well being of your much-loved pooch. Un-neutered females can suffer from mammary tumors and an infection of the womb, called a Pyometra. Both of these can, at best, be costly to treat, and at worst can be fatal. Un-neutered males are at risk of developing Testicular cancer. Neutering is also believed to assist with behavioural problems in both dogs and bitches.
Micro-chipping
When a dog is micro-chipped, a chip the size of a grain of rice is implanted beneath the skin. The micro-chip has an unique identification number, which can be read using a scanner. This is a painless procedure for the dog and is relatively in-expensive and just think; if everyone did it, the problem of stray dogs would be no more. Look out for schemes from your Local Authority, offering cut price, or even free micro-chipping!!
Remember: By law, your dog must wear an identification tag, even if he is micro-chipped!
So, do your bit! Get your dog neutered and micro-chipped and spread the word around the park!

Double-nosed dog not to be sniffed at

2007-08-28T22:39:00.000+07:00

He spotted a rare breed of Double-Nosed Andean tiger hound, which has two noses, on a recent trip to Bolivia.
The chairman of the Scientific Exploration Society said the dog, named Xingu, was "not terribly handsome".
He said: "This breed could be used for sniffing out mines or narcotics because they have an enhanced sense of smell."
Colonel Blashford-Snell first encountered a Double-Nosed Andean tiger hound called Bella in 2005 when he was carrying out reconnaissance for this year's expedition in the area near Ojaki.
He told Radio 4's Today programme: "While we were there, sitting by the fire one night, I saw an extraordinary-looking dog that appeared to have two noses.
"I was sober at the time, and then I remembered the story that the legendary explorer Colonel Percy Fawcett came back with in 1913 of seeing such strange dogs in the Amazon jungle.
"Nobody believed him, they laughed him out of court."
The dog seen two years ago was Bella, and on a second trip to the area, which began in May and has just ended, the explorer discovered her son Xingu in the village of Ojaki.
He had just produced a litter of puppies with a bitch that had a single nose.
Two of their offspring had double noses, and two had the normal quantity, but the double-nosed pups died after three days.
A veterinary expert with the group examined Xingu to see if he had a cleft palate, but this was not the case.

"There is a chance that these dogs came from a breed with double noses that's known in Spain as Pachon Navarro, which were hunting dogs at the time of the Conquistadors," said Colonel Blashford-Snell.
"I think it's highly likely some of these were taken to South America and they continued to breed. They're good hunting dogs."
He added that Xingu was "quite an aggressive little chap" who stood about 16 inches in height and loved salt biscuits but "wasn't a terribly handsome dog".
Xingu's best friend is apparently a wild pig called Gregory, and the two animals "rule the roost" in their village.

"Other dogs snarl at Xingu, because they can sense he's different. He's the smallest dog there but he sees the other dogs off," Colonel Blashford-Snell said.
"He's very intelligent and with a wonderful sense of smell, as you might think.
"The Bolivian Army came and took DNA samples because they're interested in the breed. He's not the only dog like this, there are others in the area."
The Scientific Exploration Society was in Bolivia to investigate a shallow crater about five miles in width.

According to Colonel Blashford-Snell, he has now found evidence that this was caused by a giant meteorite, which struck the Bolivian Amazon Basin up to 30,000 years ago.
He says he has found evidence of human habitation within 50 miles of the blast zone, and believes these people were wiped out as a result of the meteor's impact.
The explorers also carried with them a church organ from Dorset as a gift to local Bolivians in order to secure their help with finding the meteorite.

"D" IS FOR DOG

2007-08-28T22:22:00.000+07:00

"D" stands for Dog, for all the d-doggy doings in which they engage. For:

Disposal: Don't have an in-sink garbage disposal? All out of storage containers? Are you sick of eating leftovers? No problem. Better than an electric disposal, dogs enjoy disposing of all your food garbage including egg shells, coffee grounds and melon rinds. Like the in-sink unit, remember to insert disposable food slowly, in small pieces. Do not overstuff regardless of how pitiful your dogs may look. Always be cautious not to overfeed your "unit." Make sure to do this doggy disposal step before undertaking the doggy dishwasher step listed below.

Dishwasher par excellent: Your dogs will lick your plate when you leave your dirty dishes on the table. But they don't stop there. If you haven't pre-rinsed your dishes prior to loading them into the dishwasher, just open the machine and let the Chief Dishwashers begin their work. As soon as they hear you open the door, they will run into the kitchen, poke their heads into the lower recesses of the dishwasher and begin lapping the remains of previous meals off your dishes. If you have more than one dog, they will encircle the dishwasher, one licking the pans on the left, another the plates on the right and a third will get the spoons in the flatware basket spotlessly clean. This is a convenient way for you to ease your work load. Just remember not to tell non-doggy or squeamish dinner guests, how you got your china so sparkly!

Dirty Laundry: If you have a difficult time deciding how to sort your laundry, get your dog to help you. Place all dirty clothing in random piles on the floor. Let the dogs into the room where you have carefully stacked the clothes to be laundered. Go away and leave your dogs unsupervised for about 15 minutes. When you return, you may or may not have any dirty laundry where you left it. The dirtiest items will have disappeared entirely (warning: may reappear during yard cleaning duties), favorite shirts will have been wadded into dog bedding, socks will have been recycled as tug toys and pants that were once too hot will have had cooling vents installed, normally in the pockets. Any piece that did not smell dirty enough to launder, will remain untouched, indicating that you may wear it again and again, only placing it in the hamper when the dog's desire to roll on it indicates that the clothing item in question is beginning to stink "real good."

Ditch digger: Not only can your dogs help you with inside chores, their assistance may also be utilized outdoors as ditch diggers. Once dug, ditches may be used for many practical purposes -- for building a new basement, as a vegetable cellar or bomb shelter, to plant a new bush or tree off of which your dogs can rip all the leaves and bark, to create tunnels for hiding from tornadoes, or as a convenient place where you can bury treasure such as doggy doodoo.

Delaying: such as the inevitable bath or trip to the veterinarian. Dogs will use such delaying tactics as dawdling over dinner, a half-hour potty break request given at least once every 15 minutes, or a deep and irresistible need to stop and smell every tree, curb, signpost and tire between your car and the clinic's door.

Driver: WARNING! Do not let them fool you! Contrary to their attempts to convince you of their skills in this area by climbing in your lap and poking their heads through the steering wheel while you are driving, do not, I repeat do not let your dog drive. They can't get insurance, the policeman would never believe it and worst of all, who knows where they would take us (probably to the nearest garbage dump).

Dashboard riders: closely related to and immediately following above. If they aren't allowed to drive, they will proceed to climb on the dashboard and ride, attempting to make you think they are one of those dog ornaments with the wobbly heads. Their plan is for you not to notice that they are riding where they shouldn't be. A live dog dashboard ornament looks very nice until you fail to see through, around or over them and drive over and destroy the flowers planted in front of the county courthouse where you will promptly be arrested for disturbing the peace.

Disturbers: As in ones who interrupt and disturb your rest, your sleep and your peace of mind.

Dark-barker: Don't let your neighborhood get too quiet at night, get a dog, and let them do one of the things they do best - barking at the dark. They may bark at nocturnal creatures such as skunk, owls or partying teenagers. Or they may bark at the wind in the trees or at nothing at all. Regardless, when it turns dark, (the later the hour, the darker it becomes, thus the greater is the need for barking, according to my resident expert dark-barker) your dog will bark and make noise for you and your sleepless neighbors from dusk until dawn. Dark barking serves no special purpose except to remind you that dogs will be dogs, warning us of who knows what.

Defender of The Pack: As in the original title, Defender of the Faith, doggy faith that is, that everything must and will be all right in their little doggy families. The worst violation is disturbing nap time, theirs not ours; penalty, one night of dark barking. Other offenses which require defense are biscuit stealing and doorbell ringing and undomesticated toads or rabbits running loose in your yard.

Debedding, or Disembedding: 1) To remove the sheets, blankets and pillows from your bed in one quick, wild movement during play. This is best accomplished while you are sleepily preparing for bed, forcing you to remake the bed or sleep on the couch. 2) To dig up all the flowers or shrubs which you planted in the holes your dogs dug (see above).

Destroyer, Devourer: Closely related, both self-explanatory. Applies particularly to things, which you value greatly, are very expensive or cannot be easily replaced.

Detail-oriented: Dogs do not go about haphazardly destroying things; rather, they are detail-oriented. Observe your dog delightedly shredding a paper towel. He or she will meticulously tear it up into tiny, equal-sized pieces, distributing it evenly over your entire living room floor 40 seconds prior to the arrival of company. "Detail" may also refer to their ability to work in teams, for example, a ditch-digging detail - when one member of the pack tires, they step back and let the next member of the work detail take over the destruction (or excavation depending on whose view point you consider).

Diligent: A dog's capacity to stick to the work which they have assigned themselves, not quitting until an item is totally obliterated, leaving you to detect and deduce from the ponderous remains, what exactly it was that your diligent, detailed devourers destroyed.

Devious: The manner in which they pursue the aforementioned activities. Signs that may indicate that deviousness is a (four)foot are complete silence from a remote part of the house or noises that sound like chewing on objects other than designated chew toys.

Desperate: demanding your attention. In their need to be petted, your dog may resort to pawing your hand, nudging your arm or licking you on the cheek. To relieve their state of desperation, sit down beside them, draw them close to your side, stroke and scratch them from head to tail, and whisper dumb sounds in their little doggy ears. For whatever else Dog may stand, "D" is also for:

Darling, Devoted, and Delightful: Despite of some of our dogs' dastardly doings, they are lovable and cute and dependable; they are always there for us, making us laugh (or cry first), making us feel better and delighting us by being themselves being dogs.

DOG picture

2007-08-28T22:09:00.000+07:00

Safety Around Animals

2007-08-27T23:39:00.000+07:00

Why Might A Dog Bite?

Over Excitement: Sometimes dogs get overexcited! If you are teasing a dog, or playing roughly, he may snap or bite. Teach children to always play gently, making sure that the dog is enjoying it.
Protection: Often, dogs are trying to protect something when they bite. Dogs feel very protective of their family, house, and personal belongings. They often protect their families, yards, and especially food!
Fear: Like many people, dogs sometimes get startled. Be careful not to approach them when they are asleep, or make a loud nose or quick gesture, or even come up behind them without them knowing it.
Illness: Dogs may bite when they are sick or hurt. They do not know if we are trying to help them or hurt them. Teach children to always call an adult to examine a sick or injured dog, even if it is their own dog.
Possessiveness: Even friendly dogs may not want to share their own special things, including food, bones, or even a favorite toy!
Accidents Happen: Many people are bitten by dogs when trying to break up a dog fight. NEVER try to separate two fighting dogs!

Preventing Your Dog From Biting

There is no way to guarantee that your dog will never bite someone. However, you can reduce the risk:
Spay or neuter your pet. Sterilization will not only reduce aggression but will also decrease a dog's tendency to roam. However, spaying/neutering won't reduce a dog's protectiveness.
Train and socialize your pet. Set appropriate limits on acceptable behavior. Help your dog become a trustworthy member of your family and community.
Teach your dog appropriate behavior. Don't play aggressive games with your dog such as wrestling, tug of war, or "siccing" your dog on another person. It's essential that your dog recognize you and all the members of your family--including young children--as dominant and not challenge your leadership.
Be a responsible pet owner. License and vaccinate your dog. For everyone's safety, don't allow him/her to roam. Make your pet a member of your family. Dogs who spend too much time in the doghouse or tied in the backyard have a much greater chance of developing behavioral problems such as aggression. Dogs who are well socialized are much less likely to bite.
Be cautious. Look for the warning signs. A dog may display aggressive signs before an attack such as barking, growling, disobeying commands or showing dominance. He/she should be remove from the situation immediately upon displaying any such behavior. If your dog is generally nervous around strangers do not expose him/her to social situations until proper training can take place.

How to Avoid Being Bitten
- Never approach a strange dog, particularly one who's confined or restrained.
- Don't pet a dog, even your own, without letting him/her see and sniff you first.
- Avoid running past a dog or turning your back on a dog and running away. A dog's natural instinct is to chase and catch fleeing prey.
- Don't disturb a dog who's sleeping, eating, or caring for puppies.
- Use caution with strange dogs. Always assume that a strange dog may see you as an intruder or a threat.
- More than 60 percent of bite victims are children. Teach your children to remain motionless when they are approached by a strange dog.

What To Do If You Think A Dog May Attack
- Never scream and run. If you do, you'll probably trigger the dog's chase response and only increase your chances of being attacked. Try to remain motionless until the dog leaves, then back away slowly until he/she is out of sight.
- If you allow a strange dog to sniff you, in most cases the dog will leave when he/she decides you aren't a threat.
- Avoid direct eye contact with the dog. Staring into a dog's eyes is perceived by the dog as an act of aggression and dominance and will only challenge the dog to attack.
- If the dog does attack, use any object you may have, such as a bicycle or book bag as a barrier between you and the dog.
- If you fall or are knocked down, curl into a ball with your face to the ground and put your hands, with fists closed, over your ears.

What To Do If You Are Bitten
Wash the wound and immediately call a doctor.
Report the bite to Lee County Animal Services. Tell as much as you can about the dog -- what the dog looks like, where you saw the dog, whether you've seen the dog before, and so on. It's important for Animal Services to locate the dog as quickly as possible.

Some Important Facts About Dachsund Dogs.

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Dachsund dogs are instantly recognizable. Their short legs and long bodies have caused them to be nicknamed "weiner dogs," "hot dogs," and "sausage dogs." The reason that this breed looks so odd is that they were originally bred to help hunt down and destroy badgers. These animals were a danger to farmland, and the dachsund was able to fit into their burrows. Now, however, few dachsund dogs are working animals. Most are cherished family pets.

Although we generally perceive dachsund dogs to have a very elongated body, when compared to head size and other factors, the body length is in proportion. It is only the legs of dachsund dogs that are out of proportion, by being so short. Full grown dachsund dogs stand about eighteen inches at the shoulders. However, there has been a lot of crossbreeding dachsunds, so height is less standardized than weight. The average for dachsund dogs is about sixteen to twenty eight pounds. To comply with the dachsund standard, the legs must make up thirty percent of their height or less. The rest is made up of the dog's body. Dachsunds tend to appear in a wide variety of colors, again due to widespread crossbreeding. Dachsund dogs are available in cream, blue chocolate, light red, and ochre. Most dachsunds, however, are red and black or brown and black.

Dachsunds were bred to hunt by scent. This means that they are equipped with large lungs for their size, and contributes to a loud, deep bark for such a small dog. This breed's original function, hunting down small burrowing animals, was aided by dachsund dogs' loudness and superior sense of smell. They were able to enter badger excavations, due to their short stature, and their loud bark permitted their owners to easily follow them, even underground.

Modern dachsunds don't have to hunt anymore, but they will still feel the need to run in areas where they can smell everything and explore narrow spaces. Dachsunds don't need as much exercise as many larger breeds, which makes them easier for apartment dwellers to keep. However, they should still be walked regularly, preferably in an area that allows them to be stimulated by various interesting scents.

Functions of Fiber

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Perhaps the awareness of the benefits of fiber in human diets has prompted pet owners to ask about its benefits in pet foods. Once described as "filler" or "bulk," fiber has gained recognition for the beneficial effect it has on the gastrointestinal system.

Fiber is the portion of carbohydrate in a diet that is difficult for the digestive system to break down and use. Despite its limited digestibility, fiber does have benefits for dogs.

Fiber helps address the concern about the prevalence of obesity in dogs. It is important in special diets designed for weight reduction or weight management. Fiber helps reduce caloric intake and provides dogs a satisfied feeling of fullness when being fed fewer calories.

However, high-fiber diets alone will not ensure weight loss. Strict portion control is also necessary for a successful weight loss program. Work with your veterinarian to plan a weight reduction program for your pudgy dog.

The value of fiber to help minimize constipation is well known. Fiber absorbs water and lends bulk to the intestinal contents. This stimulates the movement of the intestinal tract and normalizes passage time through the bowel. Fiber sources also contribute to fecal consistency.

When fermented by the microorganisms that normally reside in the intestinal tract, fiber provides an important source of energy for the cells lining the intestinal tract and promotes healthy cell function.

Sources of dietary fiber in dog food include beet pulp, rice bran, soybean hulls, apple and tomato pomace, peanut hulls, citrus pulp, the bran of oats, rice, wheat, and cellulose. Pulp is the solid residue that remains after juices are extracted from fruits or vegetables; pomace refers to the pulp of the fruit.
Studies suggest that certain forms of fiber in the diet tend to slow the absorption of sugar from the intestine, which can aid in blood sugar control.

In assessing the role of fiber in a dog’s diet, the old adage "more is not better" holds true. Excessive dietary fiber is associated with adverse effects such as loose stools, flatulence (or gas), and increased stool volume or density. Reputable dog food manufacturers formulate diets to provide balanced nutrition with proper levels of fiber for a dog's life stage and activity level.

Crate Training

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Crate training is not putting your dog/puppy in a "cage" or "jail", and you are not being cruel if you follow these tips. Dogs feel secure in small, enclosed spaces, like a den. Dog crates make excellent dens.
A crate offers your dog security, a den with a roof, and a place to call his very own where he can go to get away from it all. It is also a safe place for him to stay when you're away or when you cannot watch him.
There are basically just a few steps in crate training and they are as follows:
1. Choose a crate the same size as your puppy/dog. He should only have enough room to stand up, turn around and lie down. His crate is for sleeping or for a safe place to be when you cannot be with him. If you have a large breed puppy, you may have to buy two different size crates or purchase a crate with a divider you can move as he grows.
2. Use a single-word command for your dog to enter his crate and throw in a treat or piece of kibble. When he enters, praise him and close the crate door. Gradually increase the time he spends in the crate before you let him out. Remember, your dog still needs time to play and eliminate. Maintain a regular schedule of trips outdoors so as not to confine him too long.
3. As a general guide, your puppy can stay in his crate comfortably for several hours, depending on his age. Take his age in months, add 1, and that's how many hours he should be able to stay in his crate (up to about 8 hours). For example, a 2-month old puppy should be comfortable in his crate for about 3 hours.
4. Providing your dog or puppy with a crate that is way too large may allow him to relieve himself in one end and sleep in the other. Placing food or water in his crate will allow him to fill up his bladder and bowel and he will have no choice but to relieve himself in his crate. Make sure you take your dog or puppy outdoors to eliminate on a regular schedule and especially prior to being left for prolonged periods of time. Always take your dog outside on a leash to the same area in your backyard to eliminate so you can praise him when his job is finished. This will take the guesswork out of his visits to the backyard.
Also, don't forget to play with your dog and exercise him. He needs this kind of stimulation for his mental and physical wellness.

Caring For Your Older Dog

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Even though your dog may be slowing down, there is no reason the older years can't be some of the best years. With regular veterinary attention, daily care and proper nutrition, your older dog can still experience a happy and healthy life.

Recognizing Your Dog Is Getting Older
The most practical way to tell if your dog is getting older is by observing his behavior and appearance. Simply put, how old does your dog act, look, and feel? The following are some common signs of aging and what they may indicate about a dog's health. Use these signs as a guideline in determining if your dog is an older dog.

Changes in Hearing
You can tell if you dog's hearing isn't as sharp as it used to be if he doesn't respond to his name or verbal commands, or suddenly barks for no reason.

Changes in Urination and Housetraining Habits
Excessive thirst and frequent or uncontrolled urination are often signs of kidney problems or diabetes. Inappropriate urination may be a sign of incontinence caused by a hormone imbalance, which is most common in spayed females, or caused by other medical conditions.

Changes in Eating Habits
An older dog is more likely to develop tooth and gum conditions. And because of sore gums or loose teeth, he may let food drop out of his mouth or even refuse to eat.

Breathing Problems
Coughing, difficulty in breathing and tiredness could indicate possible cardiac problems.

Changes in Vision
A hazy, bluish cast on your aging dog's eyes is normal and usually does not hinder the eyesight. However, the hazy, whitish growth of cataracts can lead to blindness. Your veterinarian can help you distinguish the difference.

Weight Gain or Loss
Like humans, a dog's metabolism slows down as he gets older. And because older dogs may not be as active as they used to be, they have a tendency to gain weight. Performing a rib check can help determine if he's overweight. Sudden weight loss or unplanned chronic weight loss should be reported to your veterinarian. This could be a sign of an internal problem.

Skin and Coat
For older dogs, you'll notice that the skin thickens and becomes less pliable. It's a good idea to check for large lumps on or under the skin. This could be a sign of a tumor, cyst or cancer.

Tiredness and Lameness
As a dog gets older, you'll notice a decrease in energy level. He becomes tired more easily and likes to nap often. He can experience stiffness in his leg, hip and shoulder joints. This could just be normal wear and tear, or it could be a result of an old injury or a sign of arthritis.

Keeping Weight in Check
Heart conditions, joint pain, and diabetes can all be influenced by obesity. Discuss your dog's feeding program with your veterinarian to be sure he is getting the proper nutrition for his age and activity level.

Proper Nutrition
Aside from regular veterinary care, proper nutrition is one of the most important things you can do to help your dog maintain a long, happy and healthy life. Transitioning your dog to a senior life stage food will help him maintain his weight and give him the extra nutrition he needs.

When Your Dog Has Special Dietary Needs
If your dog is experiencing medical problems, check with your veterinarian to see if he could benefit from a special diet formulated to help meet the special nutritional needs of dogs who suffer from certain heart conditions, gastrointestinal conditions, kidney problems and obesity.

Proper Exercise
Because obesity and arthritis are two of the most common problems experienced by older dogs, regular exercise is very important. However, if your dog does have arthritis, consult your veterinarian before beginning an exercise program.

Daily Routine
Being consistent with a daily routine is also important to your older dog's physical, mental and emotional health.

Maintaining a Healthy Skin and Coat
As part of your dog's complete home health care program, you may want to schedule a special grooming session at least once a week. Bathing your older dog regularly is also very important. This is another great opportunity to give your dog that loving attention he needs.

Maintaining Healthy Teeth and Gums
Routine dental care by your veterinarian is very important since older dogs are more prone to gum disease and tartar buildup on their teeth. In addition to regular visits with a professional, it's always a good idea for you to check your dog's teeth and gums regularly.

Emotional Needs
It is your responsibility to be sensitive to what your older dog is going through and understand that he's also experiencing a lot of psychological changes. Daily care of your older dog requires a little more patience on your part.
With your special loving care and commitment, he can enjoy a quality life during these